I've been doing alot of research on this myself lately. The general consenus is to get a lightened flywheel or the ACT flywheel. The lightened flywheel would be good because it won't come apart too easily if you over rev, and the ACT is nice because you can just slap on a replacement disk surface, unlike other aluminum flywheel's who are done when the clutch is done. Maintaining boost between shifts I wouldn't know about, but a friend of mine has a lightened flywheel and he raves about it, he won't let me get a stocker.

Hey guys,
i have a 2g GST it already has 105,000 miles so i think crank walk is not much of a risk, thing is i'm putting in an ACT 2100 clutch and i was wondering if i should resurface and lighten the flywheel??

resurface the flywheel every time you do a clutch job.

Originally posted by dave99gst
resurface the flywheel every time you do a clutch job.

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I agree sooo much.


Also, you could possibly buy a lightened one from RRE or an XACT one from prostreetonline.com . Either way.

But to sum it up, either resurface it or replace it bro.
Up to you.

Does anyone know the stock weight of a 1gb turbo, and a 1gb N/T fly wheel?
How much can they be lightened?

It's not recommended to lighten the stock flywheel. If you want a lightened flywheel, buy one that is designed to be lighter.

So I'm about to order my SPEC stage 3 and I'm getting my stock flywheel lightened. My question to you is, what's a good weight to go with? While doing some searching earlier, someone was saying that our stock AWD flywheels weigh 19lbs. and the lightened ones weigh about 15. What are most the guys running on here, and what kind of experience have you had with different weights? I'm not going with the fidanza due mainly to lack of funds. I need the clutch and it needs to be done now. Plus I think I'll like a little heavier flywheel for the added inertia. What do you guys think?

What about the Xact streetlight flywheel? They won't give you any driveability issues as their not as light as the aluminium flywheels, their right around 12 lbs. You can pick one up for just over $200 shipped. If you get a stock one resurfaced/lightened form RRE for example, its $135 plus you need to add another $20 or so to ship your old one back. Your basically at the price of the xact unit & you won't have to worry about it exploding. I personally would & did spend the extra $50, to do it right the first time

sumenlo said:

So I'm about to order my SPEC stage 3 and I'm getting my stock flywheel lightened. My question to you is, what's a good weight to go with? While doing some searching earlier, someone was saying that our stock AWD flywheels weigh 19lbs. and the lightened ones weigh about 15. What are most the guys running on here, and what kind of experience have you had with different weights? I'm not going with the fidanza due mainly to lack of funds. I need the clutch and it needs to be done now. Plus I think I'll like a little heavier flywheel for the added inertia. What do you guys think?

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if you are going to stay with the stock flywheel, then my recommendation from experience is to leave it alone. just get it resurfaced.
i have actually seen 2 eclipses locally that exploded lightened stock flywheels.

on both of them the flywheel shattered the bellhousing, pieces went through the radiator. the starter were ruined, on one of them the majority of the flywheel went through the hood. right through the hood. seriously.
there was damage to the wiring harness, firewall, and even the a/c condensor.

they were both lucky the flywheel didn't come spinning through the firewall.


just a recomendation from what i have personally seen with my own eyes.
i'd feel more comforatable with an ebay act knockoff flywheel than a lightened stocker.
but then again,
alot of people have had luck with a lightened stock wheel. personally if i was going to go with a lightened stock flywheel. i would start with a new flywheel before the machining was done.
old flywheels can have hotspots and stress cracks that will surely deliver doom to your setup.
just MHO

daren_p said:

What about the Xact streetlight flywheel? They won't give you any driveability issues as their not as light as the aluminium flywheels, their right around 12 lbs. You can pick one up for just over $200 shipped. If you get a stock one resurfaced/lightened form RRE for example, its $135 plus you need to add another $20 or so to ship your old one back. Your basically at the price of the xact unit & you won't have to worry about it exploding. I personally would & did spend the extra $50, to do it right the first time

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I have to agree. I have the Streetlite. 12.5 lbs. I wouldn't know it's there except that I noticed a bit of an improvement in the midrange and up top. I didn't have to change my driving habits in a parking lot either. But I only got it because my stock fly wheel warped and i had to get it stepped too because i was throwing a new clutch in. so it was worth it just to get the ACT piece. If you don't have the money to blow then step the stocker and go on. save up to replace it with your next clutch.

I have the XACT chromoly flywheel and it does rev faster! Also I have not had a problem in parking lots, like some people claim with other flywheels. Also the car does rev match a TON better IE. when up shifting the revs match [drop] to the where the next gear is so the trans doesnt have that rmp shock like with the stocker [if that makes any sense?]

I've run the RRE lightened Flywheel for 3 years now, I have atleast 150 drag passes on it and revved it to 9500 once with 0 problems.

eclipse93b said:

Also the car does rev match a TON better IE. when up shifting the revs match [drop] to the where the next gear is so the trans doesnt have that rmp shock like with the stocker [if that makes any sense?]

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It makes total sense. I noticed that too. If I would have known that the trans would shift so much better then I would have bought the flywheel for that. I can rev match and have driven around without using the clutch for miles at a time.

CanadianTSi said:

I've run the RRE lightened Flywheel for 3 years now, I have atleast 150 drag passes on it and revved it to 9500 once with 0 problems.

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That's good to hear. I didn't think RRE would ever market a questionable product...

It's not that the product is questionable, it's simply the nature of the beast. Less material is not going to be as strong, unless it is engineered that way from the start. There are quite a few people who have popped lightened flywheels, and I would seriously consider a scattershield (like the one built by ThreeSpeed) for anyone with a lightened, or even light weight flywheel in their setup.

That being said, I've had one in my car since I got it, and it had 25k miles of street driving on it before I got it. I've done numerous shifts @ 8k rpm, and it hasn't blown up, nor do I have a scattershield.

For what it's worth, I'm planning on getting one, and i'm going to switch to an ACT flywheel on my next clutch change. They're a little lighter, and it's a better piece, just at a much higher sticker price.

Lightened flywheels certainly do make it easier to blip downshifts though, and it feels different than stock, but I wouldn't say that it's necessarily hard to drive.

daren_p said:

What about the Xact streetlight flywheel? They won't give you any driveability issues as their not as light as the aluminium flywheels, their right around 12 lbs. You can pick one up for just over $200 shipped. If you get a stock one resurfaced/lightened form RRE for example, its $135 plus you need to add another $20 or so to ship your old one back. Your basically at the price of the xact unit & you won't have to worry about it exploding. I personally would & did spend the extra $50, to do it right the first time

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I just bought my Fidanza for about $200 shipped ($208.93 exactly). I'd go with the peace of mind knowing I have QUALITY. I bought it on eBay too, arrived in 2 days.

ACT streetlite all the way. There is no other option IMO. I am not a fan of the fidanza.

I have a Fidanza in mine and while it takes a little bit to get used to, you learn to like it. I don't have the parking lot troubles people have but often the car will die out if you press the gas and don't have the car in gear or catch the gas with your foot. IE: Pulling into your driveway, letting off the clutch and going to neutral after pulling in, sometimes it dies out. If you have a good idle motor, it SHOULD catch it.

Off-topic, all you guys with lightened flywheels, do you get this noise as seen in http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=211524 ? The thread didn't go to far so I wasn't sure if you guys had the same noise.

I Just did a whole engine swap and when I pulled my tranny my clutch plate and scored my flywheel. I decided to go with an act 2600 street disk and an act 2600 lightened flywheel (12 lbs.) and its is awesome. With my balance shafts removed and thew flywheel I rev so fast. I had a few issues with it for the first 15 miles (new clutch slipped a little bit) but after that is grabs awesome. Every shift falls right in place and im on a tranny with 134k miles on it and a leaking slave cylinder. I have no starter issues and I have no issues in parking lots (however Its hard to park in the garage without throwing it in neutral because it grabs so well that it just either engages or disengages).


So the ACT 2600 gets my vote.


*edit* also the flywheel is aluminum with a steel surface plate. This is obviously nice for when that clutch goes bad.

Malero5 said:

*edit* also the flywheel is aluminum with a steel surface plate. This is obviously nice for when that clutch goes bad.

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The surface of the act is chromoly which is much harder than steel.

You guys with AWD's should really look into this flywheel from RPS.
It's called the <a href =http://turboclutch.com/flywheel.html>Cyn-R-G Segmented Flywheel</a>.
Replacable segmented friction surface.
The segments allow the friction surface to expand and contract during heat cycles.
The segmented friction surface expands and contracts like expansion joints used for bridges and overpasses.

I run the SBR 3500 clutch kit w/ a JUN 6bolt flywheel and love it. It definitely took me a while to get used to how fast it rev's up and down, the first time I took my car out I stalled it out at least 3 times, but I love the setup. And the 3500 has 2100 like pedal feel but grabs like a mofo.

Its funny to hear a product fight... especially with these flywheels. The car out of the factory was made to drive like it was... OEM. When you start adding stuff... your opening windows of failure. As a DSMer, everyone should realize that ANY after market part out there can do well harm than good. The car was MADE by the top engineers to run the way it should with the flywheel or any part of the car. When you get a lighter one... ANYTHING can happen... doesn't matter who makes it (well.. I mean quality is obviously included). I'll just mention what i use... I put in a Fidanza flywheel because I only went with a 2100 series clutch. I want to get the best power to the wheels. I would of went with a ACT ( a little heavier ) with a 2600 series... but I have a 97 GS-T... prone to crankwalk. When I had the flywheel... i just had the T-25 at 17 psi, and I'lll tell you this... that flywheel is my first page of my bible. When I went to a Ported SB-T28 at 21 PSI, I shit a brick. My car launched like no tomarrow, grabbed 2nd like a vette, and grabbed 3rd with envy. Yes... revs do go up quicker and do drop down fast, but I'm only concerned about 1/4 time and 1-3rd gear impressions against STI's, Evo's, V8's. I'm not a long run shooter. I make their mouths drop.

A Fidanza is only 178 shipped I read a few post that people said they where way to expensive. I think that's a great price or am I missing something?

Yeah thats what mine was. $178-179. Though it may not be stepped to the right height...So its going to be checked out pretty soon.

Dream On said:

Yeah thats what mine was. $178-179. Though it may not be stepped to the right height...So its going to be checked out pretty soon.

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How do you get that checked and is it something I should do when I order mine and it comes in?