so i finally got everything on my car finished today, wow, thats all i have to say. four things though, easiest to hardest.

1, turn signal broken on drivers side, dont need your guys help for that

2, pop up headlight on drivers side wont go all the way down because part of it hits the licp, anyone with a dejon tools licp have the same problem, or is this just me?

3, boost gauge reads -15 hg/in at idle

4, today, three times, as i came to a stop, while the car was warmed up, it stalled once i stopped. the first two times were one after the other, and the third time it didnt fully stall, the dash lights lit up and then it came back to life.


so those are my problems, gotta move the licp, fix that light, and do a boost test. any other ideas on these problems, i dont know how im going to move the licp though...its touching the alternator and theres like a wall on the farthest side. ill take pictures later.

IT LOOKS SOOO GOOD WITH THE NEW PAINT JOB AND THE INTERCOOLER...

and the turbo is increadibly loud, louder than the bov, is this because i have no maf/aircan on the turbo? or could this be boost leaking, .

Definitely do the leak test first. If you still have stock cams, -15 inHG indicates vacuum leaks, this can very well be the reason for stalling. Have you also properly set your ips, tps, BISS (750rpm) and 5*BTDC ignition base timing? fix the leaks first then re-set the sensors.

no, i didnt touch them because, 1 this is the first day ive driven it, and 2, i didnt screw with them so i kinda figured i wouldnt have to, but it does seem like its idling at 500 rpms. i have the logs with the fuel trims, but I dont know how to get them on the computer.

If memory serves, you had a busted intake gasket and leaky injector seals last time we spoke, have you retest since fixing them. Didn't you also just installed the head? If so, did you reset ignition timing?

oldman said:

If memory serves, you had a busted intake gasket and leaky injector seals last time we spoke, have you retest since fixing them. Didn't you also just installed the head? If so, did you reset ignition timing?

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no, what it was is one of the screws on the intake manifold is somewhat stripped towards the top, so when i torqued it to 20 ft lbs or whatever, it wasnt pressing the intake manifold at all because there was too much friction between the screw and the threads. it looked like it was on, but it wasnt. the injector seals was just a guess by me, when i did the test and found the leak, nothing came out of the injector seals. the head was never off. i dont have a timing gun, so i have not reset the ignition timing, but again, the head was never off, so it should be good.

drove it around some today again, the power steering line i installed is kinked, made things interesting. anyways, it didnt stall at all, but it is still hard to turn on. I thought that was just because i left it sitting for a long time, but apparently its just hard to start every time. i have to give it a lot of gas. is this common when you have a boost leak? any other help?

Coolant temperture sensor perhaps? Stop trying to get out of a leak test, havn't you learned from last time?

boost tests are hard when you have no way of compressing a lot of air. once i finally get a hold of paul ill tell him and see if i can take my car to him, i just ordered from mitsu:
9 x the bolts that go on the bottom of the bumper, all mine were shaved down from people scraping the bottom of my car on things, that created a lot of problems for me at the begining.
1 x turn signal
1 x intake manifold bolt, replacing that stripped one, hopefully i can get that one out, shouldnt be a problem, might still be causing the leak, figured id replace it anyways.
1 x another bumper bolt i lost.

when i go there i might get new power steering lining and clamps, that will fix that problem, when i take it to paul ill get a boost leak test, and have him replace the ac bracket on the back of the engine, since you have to cut off that part and put it back on or something. IM TIRED OF CUTTING METAL, the bumper was enough. doing it with a hax saw was a challenge. I have no idea how im going to lower the licp so that it doesnt interfer with the pop up headlight, ill find out when i take off the headlight to replace the bulb so i can look down there again. then i just have to cut my intake pipe a little shorter so my air filter fits better, and the hood will close all the way.

still have to clean the starter motor to get rid of that grinding sound at start. least of my worries right now though. need this thing running by the 20th of feb with new exhaust, going to infineon....12? please god? .

also still have to install my mbc and have the option of installing my dejon tools 1g bov leak stopper.

also just realised, is there supposed to be air being sucked into the uicp from the bov at idle? or is my bov leaking? that might explain a lot. i can feel air being sucked by my hand if i put it in front of my bov.

also, the licp is touching the alternator, and sometimes there is this weird high pitched sound. like a really high pitched buzz. when i touched the uicp it went away. i have no idea what it was.

im also planning on rewireing my stock fuel pump before i go, just for safty, but I gotta get the maft dialed in first, and the car running perfectly before that.

oldman said:

Coolant temperture sensor perhaps? Stop trying to get out of a leak test, havn't you learned from last time?

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well, since i didnt learn last time i guess god desided to smite me.

the bolt i was replacing on the intake manifold broke as i was installing it because it was 2 mm to long. luckily (actually i havent looked at it, i might be completely sol, but im just guessing, getting near that car pisses me off now) there is some of the bolt sticking out of the head so i can take it out. mitsubishi is buying me a new head gasket and intake manifold bolt, and im returning the wrong turn signal they gave me and they apparently have the one i need in stock. ill be picking all these parts up tuesday, which is when my dejon exhaust is supposed to come. (i might ditch school wednesday, if you hadnt guessed already)

also i bought a vr4 fuel pump since i dont feel like rewiring my fuel pump and this is better anyways. anyone know if a rewired vr4 pump will give me any problems with the stock fpr? i think once i replace that bolt it will run correctly, i should post a pick of the bolt that came out. imagine a bolt thats trying to be a nail.

lowered the licp a little so the pop up almost clears. realised what it is thats holding it up, the bumper support beam holder (the thing the shocks for the bumper go into) is in the way. i might have to take off the bumper, fmic, and grind it down some.... going to go replace the one power steering line thats leaking, maybe find some clamps that are the right size, if not ill have to go buy more clamps and some more fuel line (dont think i have enough) besides that i just have to clean the starter motor, install the exhaust, and install the vr4 pump.

I'm confused, I thought the intake manifold was already back in the car with the gasket and bolt fixed?

I'm kunfoooozed.

oldman said:

I'm confused, I thought the intake manifold was already back in the car with the gasket and bolt fixed?

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yea, but i figured that the leak (since my boost gauge was detecting it) was from the intake manifold gasket, and since i just tightened that bolt down as much as i could to get it running, i figured if i replaced the bolt it would eliminate the leak.....

just replaced the ps line and installed my mbc, of course i have no idea what psi its set at because the car isnt running, but whateva...

1. remove ac compressor bracket
2. new turn signal bulb (taking the old one with me next time i go to the dealer)
3. lower the licp so the pop up headlight closes (i got it down to about 1/8 of an inch above the hood line)
4. install the 1g BOV (Air Bypass Valve) Leak Stop Kit i bought from dejon tool
5. get car running and check for boost leaks
6. make a box and scoop for my air filter
7. clean the starter motor so the sound it makes at start up is gone. (i couldnt find the tech guide, anyone have the link?)
8. install my dejon exhaust once it gets here
9. install my vr4 fuel pump once it gets here

here is the list without the things i dont need to do anytime soon (aka these are the things i want finished before the 20th of next month)

2. new turn signal bulb (taking the old one with me next time i go to the dealer)
5. get car running and check for boost leaks
8. install my dejon exhaust once it gets here
9. install my vr4 fuel pump once it gets here

2. find out why my turn signal on my drivers side isnt working, since i replaced the bulb and it didnt work
5. get car running and check for boost leaks
8. install my dejon exhaust once it gets here
9. install my vr4 fuel pump once it gets here

got my new gasket and bolt today and my exhaust yesterday. im about to go borrow a vice grip and come back and work on my car. hopefully it will run. i think the reason why i have been having problems getting my car to run is because of the maft. i set it to 450cc injectors, but when the car is warm at idle it reads 0.00 volts on the o2 and the o2 trim is always at 199.2 (not always, but very often, its at 100% when im way off, because its so far off it doesnt even bother with the trims.) so im running lean at idle like none other. i talked to paul and he said both cars he has used the maft to tune with needed to be richened up about 30% from what the table said. turned it to 480 or 490 (dont remember) we'll see how that works out.

Do you have your BOV recirculated or vented?

i have a gm maf with maft on the uicp and my 1g bov is vented

wow, took the manifold off (by took off i mean unbolted and slid off, a few things are still connected, ie throttle body and cables, and took the vice grips to the part of the bolt sticking out. no luck at all. smoothed the threads, not that i could have used the double nut method as there isnt enough bolt sticking out. any ideas? tow to dealer? $$$$$$

If you have a welder, you can weld a nut on there. You definitely had enough room to double nut.

the leads that connect to the peice that holds the bulbs may be pulled out a little bit, so push them into the back of the bulb holder. i had that problem on my car, but the connector on the wire came totally out.

oldman said:

If you have a welder, you can weld a nut on there. You definitely had enough room to double nut.

Click to expand...

what do you mean i definitely had enough room to double nut it? i didnt.... theres like 1 and a half the lenght of a nut sticking out. i just suck at estimating length.

as for the light bulb thing, its not that the wires are out of the harness, i think its that the wire was crushed between something. i can feel almost exactly where too. im not to worried about my turn signal though, i would rather get this bolt off and then put on my new exhaust. (problems with the exhaust are, i have no lift, and cant seem to find the right socket for the nuts on the downpipe. i got all three muffler hangers off though)

update, my list of things to do has grown/shrunk, and the bolt is still there....

1. lower the licp so the headlight will close all the way (who cares really)
2. install my dejon bov boost leak stopper (not any time soon)
3. get the car running and remove that bolt (ill explain after this list)
4. make a cold air scoop for the air filter
5. clean the starter motor so i dont have that weird sound at startup
6. install the vr-4 fuel pump once it gets here
7. put a screen on the bumper so the fmic wont get hit with rocks

i bought a paper intake manifold gasket with a silicon lining around each runner. Im hoping that will be enough of a seal to get the car running, but who knows. I have the gasket on and the manifold is sitting on the studs, but i lost the injector seal on cylinder 2. then i saw it in the intake port, and took a screw driver and flicked it out. now i cant find it. im going to find it before i install the intake manifold, just so i know its not in the intake manifold or the head. (i put the screwdriver through the injector hole and flicked it out, i cant really see anything in the head, and the valves look closed. i took the spark plug out and looked down there, it looked like the piston was low (intake valves closed?) and the valves look closed from the intake port. i removed the ac bracket because i thought it might be back there. it wasnt, but i got something done that ive been meaning to do for a while. the turn signal started to work magically, i replaced the bulb and it wasnt working, but i played with the wires a little and it finally started working, dunno why. the dejon exhaust is on. im going to go take some pics of my shinny paperweight. new paint job, fmic, 3 inch exhaust, intake pipe, hard short route upper intercooler pipes, gm maf, smim, max hp=0, WEEEEEEE

ok found the injector seals. one was next to the starter motor, the other was.....under the axel, hanging on the lip of the frame underneith the axel on the drivers side. the only reason why i noticed the second one is because i desided to turn the wheel left and look from the passenger side under the car. dunno what made me do that, or why all that shaking of my car didnt make it fall, but i did look and i found it. now im just waiting for my friend to get home so i can borrow his torque wrench again. (dont want having to deal with demon bolt junior.) my fuel pump came today, anyone know how to tell for sure that its a vr-4 pump. bought it off 3si.org, and not that i dont trust the person i bought it from, its just that i dont trust anyone anymore. i wanna make sure this pump will actually help me, not make my car run super lean and kill my engine. (if its a na fuel pump i mean)