I have a few questions that I wasn't able to find the answers to by searching...

The car is a 95 Talon Tsi AWD 5-speed with a 90 model 6-bolt, oil-cooled only 18G turbo, air-to-air oil cooler, DSMlink, 680cc injectors, Walbro 255 rewired, FMIC, MBC, Greddy BOV, bored 62.5mm 2G TB, Green-top CAS, rewired "Method 2" wiring, ACT 2900, Fidanza flywheel.


1) In the swap I used the head/block (90 model) and waterneck. I read I am to swap the water temp sensors from my 2G. The water temp that feeds the ECU (2 wire plug) has the same size theads, so that was no problem. The other sensor which I believe feeds the watertemp guage?(single wire) has a larger thread diameter on the 1G than 2G.
Should I adapt the 2G or will the 1G function the same?

2) Does the oil flowing through the filter housing not flow through the oil cooler until it reaches a certain temp(if so, what temp?)? I ask this because I hope to crank it by the end of the week and I haven't purchased the oil lines or had time to make some. I just want to crank it and hear it after 8 long months! The housing would be plugged with some short M16X1.5 bolts.

3) I have some various wires that I need help in identifying. This is my first DSM and I took the 7-bolt out 8 long months ago so the memory to what these things hooked to are a little fuzzy. I'll take pics tomorrow and post them.

Thanks for any help you can give,
MM

First of all let me say . . .you're in STARKVILLE?! Holy crap- I just left that place
Okay. . . now that's out of my system:

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

1)Should I adapt the 2G or will the 1G function the same?

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Not sure if the 1G sensor provides the same range of resistance to the stock gauge, but seeing as how it's not all that accurate anyways . . . wouldn't hurt to test it out. Nor would it be too difficult to get the 2g sensor to fit the 1g waterneck.

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

2) Does the oil flowing through the filter housing not flow through the oil cooler until it reaches a certain temp(if so, what temp?)?

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The thermostat doesn't open until xxx temp (I don't remember off-hand), however if you dont have the 2 ports hooked up (or plugged up), you will get oil blorking (yes, that is a technical term . . . use it sparingly) out everywhere after it comes out of the filter.
Also, if this is a new motor (or at least re-honed cylinder walls, I would HIGHLY suggest not starting it until you are ready to warm it up for the 1st time to do a break-in).

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

3) I have some various wires that I need help in identifying.

Click to expand...

So get em posted already!

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

Thanks for any help you can give,
MM

Click to expand...

-No worries

1. I put all of the 2g t-stat housing parts that would fit into the 1g t-stat housing. The rest i laft as 1g parts.

3. Post 'em. I can most likely identify any wire under the hood.

tsunari said:

First of all let me say . . .you're in STARKVILLE?! Holy crap- I just left that place
Okay. . . now that's out of my system:

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Yeppers..I am, well sorta. I am currently on co-op down in Jackson during the week and home in Starkville on the weekends. I finally hauled the car down here so I could get more done during week.

Not sure if the 1G sensor provides the same range of resistance to the stock gauge, but seeing as how it's not all that accurate anyways . . . wouldn't hurt to test it out. Nor would it be too difficult to get the 2g sensor to fit the 1g waterneck.

Click to expand...

No, shouldn't be too hard, just another adapter to find or make...arrgh!

The thermostat doesn't open until xxx temp (I don't remember off-hand), however if you dont have the 2 ports hooked up (or plugged up), you will get oil blorking (yes, that is a technical term . . . use it sparingly) out everywhere after it comes out of the filter.
Also, if this is a new motor (or at least re-honed cylinder walls, I would HIGHLY suggest not starting it until you are ready to warm it up for the 1st time to do a break-in).

Click to expand...

The motor isn't new or rebuilt...(crossing fingers) the guy I bought it from (who I guess I trust) was running it with no problems and good compression...which I will be checking when I am able to crank. The inlet/oulet holes will be plugged with M16x1.5 bolts.

So get em posted already!

Click to expand...

YESSIR..will do as soon as I get off this afternoon!!

Thanks guys,
MM

1. I also used a 90' thermostat housing and front water pipe in my 6 bolt swap. If you cannot get a 2g sensor/probe to work because of the thread size use the 1g one, they are the same basically.

2. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT DOING THIS! You are going to want to put a full heat cycle on that biatch when you start it!!! MAKE SURE YOU HOOK UP YOUR OIL COOLER PRIOR TOO!!!

JFYI, the temperature sensative diverter valve opens at around 175 degrees I believe, it may be 176 on the dot but I dont remember. Try searching "oil cooler" on here and you'll get your answer, I know for a fact its in one of the threads.

3. Post pics of the wiring up here, its pretty hard IMO to screw that up since everything reaches a "general location" from the main harness; however, I too didnt want to screw it up and used my buddies 2g also w/ a 6bolt swap as reference

Good luck!!!

Agent11br said:

2. I would HIGHLY RECOMMEND NOT DOING THIS! You are going to want to put a full heat cycle on that biatch when you start it!!! MAKE SURE YOU HOOK UP YOUR OIL COOLER PRIOR TOO!!!

JFYI, the temperature sensative diverter valve opens at around 175 degrees I believe, it may be 176 on the dot but I dont remember. Try searching "oil cooler" on here and you'll get your answer, I know for a fact its in one of the threads.

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I was planning on it running it to operating temp, the reason I asked this is because I ofcourse wanted oil flow without the cooler for a temp basis.
So along that same question, when the diverter valve opens at XXX temp, and I had my inlet outlet plugged, would oil still be able to flow or are we talking "all" oil will be diverted towards the outlet?
If I understand you correctly, you are saying all oil will be diverted once at xxx temp and then there will be no oil pressure/circualtion. If so, yes that is bad....and I will wait to crank.

Okay, I am finally off work and headed to the house...will snap some pics and post them around 8pm central tonight of all the crap I am lost on.

Ltr,
MM

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

If I understand you correctly, you are saying all oil will be diverted once at xxx temp and then there will be no oil pressure/circualtion. If so, yes that is bad....and I will wait to crank.

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I do not have a link to the thread, but the way I understand it is not ALL flow is re-directed to the cooler, but somewhere around 80-90% is . . . so yeah, definitely hold off a little longer

Test post to see if pics upload...

OK, so it did work...

Pic1) Orange arrow points to unknown stray wire with no end.
Red arrow points to something that a bolt goes throug I guess
Green arrow points to single wire clip plug.

Pic2 & Pic3) These two pics go togther and the one I know is the one that is plugged in which is my 2G temp sensor. Did I put that in the right location?

Pic4 & Pic5) On the firewall....That hose does get trimmed and put on there correct?

And a couple more...
The 1G waterneck has a few items that my 2G didn't.
Not sure what the yellow and orange are, but the I did notice today when snapping these pics, that the red circle is a possible match for the 2G temp gauge sensor. Would that be correct?

The last pic is for your viewing pleasure...my small turbo in the front seat. Oh do I want to her it whine!!

Thanks guys,
MM

OK, on your last pick - the black hose goes on that nipple on the manifold for vacuum... it's for your brake booster.

the white plug in the same pic i believe goes under the brake reservoir... it's your low fluid sensor.

OK, let's take a look at a few of these . . .

1) Green -- Oil Pressure Sending unit
Will be a big 'bulb' looking sensor hanging on the bottom-side of the oil filter bracket

Red -- Wire Loom Bracket
Should be a small stub on the passenger-side of the alternator, towards the bottom. (10mm nut + washer should hold it on there I believe)

Orange -- Oil Pressure Switch (Idiot Light)
Small sensor on the front-side of the oil filter bracket (Looks like you will need to crimp on a female spade to that wire . . .)

2) Orange -- Believe that looks like it hooks up to the wire harness that goes to the starter.

3) Blue -- Believe that's the wire that goes to the starter (see #2)

Green -- Coolant Sensor
Should be a small single-pronged sensor in your Thermostat Housing

Red -- Oxygen Sensor I do believe . . . But I see that you have yours plugged with a bolt & washer . . . Out of curiosity, what size is that bolt?

4) Not sure . . . those look like they're probably 95/96 specific plugs . . . they dont look familiar . . .

5) Orange -- Yup! Hook that hose up to the nipple on your Intake Manifold, it's for the brake booster like GSXBLUR said.

Purple -- Same here . . . looks like low brake-fluid wire

6) Green -- Already hooked up in #3

Yellow -- No idea, but I've NEVER seen it being used (aside to plug that hole! )

Orange -- Temp sensor - Not sure if the 2g has one that needs to replace it

Red -- Another Coolant Sensor -- this is where you plug Green from #3 into, or put your 2g sensor in just to be sure everything will work together

7) Slap that bad-boy up to your Exhaust Mani and start blowin ppls doors off!

The yellow circle is a valve that allows the egr to operate when you reach operating temperature. That little thing is expensive and hard to find, usually the plastic nozzles for the vacuum hoses break off and it never gets replaced.

kanderson111 said:

The yellow circle is a valve that allows the egr to operate when you reach operating temperature. That little thing is expensive and hard to find, usually the plastic nozzles for the vacuum hoses break off and it never gets replaced.

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Well that's definitely cool to know . . . wonder if it actually makes any difference. Probably not since none of the 2Gs I've ever seen have had em. . .

Alright...thanks guys!!
I will take a look at that stuff tonight and see if I can get it all plugged in.

One thing, I do have some sorta plug (single wire clip type) that is already on the starters as well as the power cable that bolts to it...Is there more than one wire that connects to the 2G starters? I'll snap a pic of what I have on it tonight...

Other than that....thanks a million details.

Ltr,
MM

I do not have a link to the thread, but the way I understand it is not ALL flow is re-directed to the cooler, but somewhere around 80-90% is . . . so yeah, definitely hold off a little longer

Click to expand...

Yea I'm pretty sure that not ALL 100% of the oil is diverted away b/c then air bubbles would be created, but a significant amount is. Still, wait to get that sucker going until you hook it up...you dont want a huge drop in oil pressure and oil going everywhere


Secondly, tsunari has everything right in my books. I have a 95 awd and am still trying to figure out pic 4 for ya, I'll let you know if I figure it out.

For Pic 6 you do not hook anything up to the yellow or orange, they are there to plug holes basically.

For pics 2 & 3 those do look like starter wires...you should have 4 wires going to your starter

- Battery Ground, will hook up to the rear starter bolt that goes through the tranny on the tranny side.
- Battery Power, will go directly from the battery to the back of the starter on a post.
- Starter solenoid ground, will be a little black wire clip thingy that should be in the same loom as the next wire/clip, this will clip onto the ground tab on the solenoid itself
- Starter solenoid ignition switch line, will be a little black wire harness and snap into the top area of the solenoid, this should be in the same loom as the solenoid ground


Pic 7...look'n hott!!!


Good luck man, let us know how it goes!

Tsunari - rep point given b/c I think you deserve it!

tsunari said:

. . . But I see that you have yours plugged with a bolt & washer . . . Out of curiosity, what size is that bolt?

4) Not sure . . . those look like they're probably 95/96 specific plugs . . . they dont look familiar . . .

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Well, that bolt came with the SSautocrapper O2 housing, so I'm not exactly sure what it is. I do remember reading a post where the size of the O2 was being discussed.

Yes, they are 95 (maybe 96) specific. Thanks to Noid95GST
Since he can't post here yet, I'll post for him...

Noid95GST said:

6 bolt swap

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm considered a newbie so I can't post on the thread In the thread Tsunari is right on the ones he answered. In Pic 2 that plug connects to blue circle in pic 3. In pic 4 the red circle is the used to check your fuel pump, and the yellow circle is your ignition timing base check connector(It is nice to know what these are for, but they will not effect the starting of your car. In pic 5 the purple circle connects to a plug coming from the fuel pressure solenoid valve, it is located right behind the brake fluid reservoir. Hope this helps you out. Noid95gst

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Now to my new finds...
Ok, I hooked up the things you guys said and now I have a few more questions.
1) On the firewall, the white connector that you guys said was the low brake fluid plug...Where does it go? There are two wires already connected to the reservoir, and as Noid said, there is already a plug plugged into that fuel pressure valve. (see pic 1-2 below)

2) (Pic 3) The bulb on the filter housing is the red circle? As you can see, there is no connector on it, but do I need to add one or what?
So, does the wire with the clip already on it go where the green circle is (I'll need to add a tab here too I guess)

That's all I can think of today...
Ltr,
MM

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

1) On the firewall, the white connector that you guys said was the low brake fluid plug...Where does it go? There are two wires already connected to the reservoir, and as Noid said, there is already a plug plugged into that fuel pressure valve. (see pic 1-2 below)

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Hmmm . . . might go to one of the purge solenoids that *should* be on the firewall, it's possible that it was removed . . .

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

2) (Pic 3) The bulb on the filter housing is the red circle? As you can see, there is no connector on it, but do I need to add one or what?
So, does the wire with the clip already on it go where the green circle is (I'll need to add a tab here too I guess)

Click to expand...

Yup, that's the bulb, and actually the first time I saw one . . . I thought the same exact thing (how the FSCK am I supposed to hook something up to this?!) The black connector mentioned earlier (Or even a female spade) will slide onto that 'T' horizontally. It's a low-profile spade-connector-thingy (it's late here . . . )

The smaller sending unit on the front is the oil pressure switch (idiot light) and yeah, you'll probably have to make a connection tab for that one (they break easily)

Agent11br -- Heheh. . . thanks man

Yea hes right on the connect spade thing I drove for a month not knowing that it had fallen off and couldn't figure out why my oil pressure guage wasen't working .

ohh yea really should hook up an oil cooler to that and not try and block it off, if you didnt want an oil cooler you need a different casted oil filter bracket. If you dont have an oil cooler i still have my old one with ss line and metric to AN adapter fittings. good luck

alexg1323 said:

ohh yea really should hook up an oil cooler to that and not try and block it off, if you didnt want an oil cooler you need a different casted oil filter bracket. If you dont have an oil cooler i still have my old one with ss line and metric to AN adapter fittings. good luck

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Yessir...I am going to run a cooler, just wanted to crank it without becuase I didn't have one yet.
BUT, I found one last night...a Setlab (think that is right spelling) 7"x5"x2" with AN lines and adapters on the other end for the 90 oil cooler...for $150.

Agent11br said:

For pics 2 & 3 those do look like starter wires...you should have 4 wires going to your starter

- Battery Ground, will hook up to the rear starter bolt that goes through the tranny on the tranny side.
- Battery Power, will go directly from the battery to the back of the starter on a post.
- Starter solenoid ground, will be a little black wire clip thingy that should be in the same loom as the next wire/clip, this will clip onto the ground tab on the solenoid itself
- Starter solenoid ignition switch line, will be a little black wire harness and snap into the top area of the solenoid, this should be in the same loom as the solenoid ground

Click to expand...

So....
- I have the power cable tightened to post..
- and the ground is cable through one of the bolts.
- Connected A wire/clip to the solenoid tab, BUT you are saying the started body should have a place for a wiring clip to plug in also? I didn't see a place, but could have overlooked it. Do you know where it is located on the starter? And I don't remember another wire clip/tab on that same harness, but ofcourse you guys are probably right and I have just overlooked it (I'll dbl check ).
Also the two wires that Noid95GST pointed out plug into one another("In Pic 2 that plug connects to blue circle in pic 3"), but what do they do? Why does the wiring harness plug back into itself?

Thanks for helping me to clear all this up..
MM

Can you post a link to that cooler? I also have a 90 block and head.

Thanks,
Josh

95TalonTsiAWDam said:

So....
- I have the power cable tightened to post..
- and the ground is cable through one of the bolts.
- Connected A wire/clip to the solenoid tab, BUT you are saying the started body should have a place for a wiring clip to plug in also? I didn't see a place, but could have overlooked it. Do you know where it is located on the starter? And I don't remember another wire clip/tab on that same harness, but ofcourse you guys are probably right and I have just overlooked it (I'll dbl check ).
Also the two wires that Noid95GST pointed out plug into one another("In Pic 2 that plug connects to blue circle in pic 3"), but what do they do? Why does the wiring harness plug back into itself?

Thanks for helping me to clear all this up..
MM

Click to expand...

Ok I went out and looked at mine and I misinformed you kinda.

There are 3 connections on the starter itself, the power/ground cables along with the ground clip.

The 4th clip I was talking about doesnt clip in on the starter itself; however it does clip into a clip on the main wiring harness (ie the one that all of you coolant sensor lines are on)

hope that clarifies things...

Alrighty, here is some more info/clraification on my above post which for some reason it wont let me modify, oh well...

For this 4th starter wire here is what you need to do:

In pic 2 you have that connector circled in goldish yellow

you want to connect that with the connector circled in blue in pic 3



As for pic 4, I looked for like 15 minutes and found I believe it was the blue one taped to a wiring harness behind stuff with blue tape from the factory. Mine looks like it has never been hooked up at all...I have a 5 spd...I dont know if its some automatic thing or what OR it could be some goofy pre-95 production thing (mine was built actually in 94, I got Eprom and the vented rear rotors, different door panels, different labeled intake mani, etc.)

Hope that helps man, let us know when you get it all done and going!

Agent11br said:

Alrighty, here is some more info/clraification on my above post which for some reason it wont let me modify, oh well...

For this 4th starter wire here is what you need to do:

In pic 2 you have that connector circled in goldish yellow

you want to connect that with the connector circled in blue in pic 3



As for pic 4, I looked for like 15 minutes and found I believe it was the blue one taped to a wiring harness behind stuff with blue tape from the factory. Mine looks like it has never been hooked up at all...I have a 5 spd...I dont know if its some automatic thing or what OR it could be some goofy pre-95 production thing (mine was built actually in 94, I got Eprom and the vented rear rotors, different door panels, different labeled intake mani, etc.)

Hope that helps man, let us know when you get it all done and going!

Click to expand...

Sweet...yessir, I have them hooked up correctly then. As for the other, I don't know either, guess Noid95GST is correct and they are like diagnostic pluggins.


The cooler was from the Classifieds section of this site. Not new, used slightly.
Thanks,
MM

P.S. Won't be able to get back to the car until Monday afternoon. Will post results/questions then...