I don't see 6 bolt swap or 1g head in your list of upgrades. Were you planning on swapping the motor and or head at the same time?

I hope you were not thinking of bolting this up to your 7 bolt were you?

I sent the guy on ebay this message...

You need to change your description. This is not an upgrade for a 2g car. The 1g manifold while it does bolt up has runners that are large like any normal 1g has. The 2g head has the smaller intake ports. If this intake manifold was used it would cause a huge step at the head from the intake manifold to the head which would cause huge air flow problems. This manifold on a 2g motor has been dynoed to lose 10-15hp over a stock 2g intake manifold because of the turbulance caused. Before some poor 2g guy buys this and screws up his car, maybe you should just give info about the product not that it's an upgrade for a 2g because it's not.

Click to expand...

We'll see how he responds...

thank you, now i know. my car has been acting weird. high rpms for no reason. already installed. i guess i will figure it out and leave negative feedback.

is it required that you have a 6 bolt motor or at least a 1g head swap to do this intake manifold swap. i have all the other parts like the canister and hobbs switch that is needed, vacuum lines also. Will it work on just a regular 2g with a 1g throttle body, please and thanks!

SexyGsX said:

is it required that you have a 6 bolt motor or at least a 1g head swap to do this intake manifold swap. i have all the other parts like the canister and hobbs switch that is needed, vacuum lines also. Will it work on just a regular 2g with a 1g throttle body, please and thanks!

Click to expand...

IG Intake Manifold => 1G Head
2G Intake Manifold => 2G Head

There is no swapping between the two. Just because it bolts up doens't mean it lines up or works.

Just to illustrate the problems:


The top is the 1g Intake, the bottom is 2G. Imagine the 1G manifold bolted upto the 2G head now with the way the ports look. Air would be trying to enter the head and hit a huge lip on both sides of the manifold.

The 1G manifold makes more power because of the design of the runners and plenum not the size of the ports. However if you go and put that manifold on your car you will only lose HP because of the ports.

Have you ever heard of port matching? Thats so everything is exactly the same size, which is really important. You simply can not put that intake manifold on and leave that huge hump on the top and bottom as it will simply ruin air flow.

In sort, just because it bolts up does not mean it works. I can re-drill a Honda Civic intake manifold for you so it will bolt upto your head, will that work just because it bolts up?

ok, now i understand. i have read many things about the swap, but never heard that you had to have the 1g head. thanks!

i have one of the 3 piece, dual runner manifolds that you speak of sitting in my friends garage, it came on a jdm longblock i bought several months ago. it is certainly not the same as the one in the pic you posted, it DOES NOT say "cyclone" on it, but most certainly does have dual runners and is made up of multiple seperate pieces that bolt together.

the problem with it, is that without a jdm ecu, getting the butterfly system to work correctly is a hugh hassel. i dont have the jdm vacume canister or w/e to make them work that way, and the only other option is to take the butterflys out and use both sets of runners at all times. after researching it, and finding that it doesnt flow any better then a usdm 1g manifold on top end, i decided not to waste my time with it and left it to collect dust on a shelf.

Hey guys, i've been running the cyclone manifold for several months. Its driven by a stage 3 keydiver chip with cyclone activation at 4100. Makes for great daily driving out of boost cause the car actually has some low throttle power for stop and go.
I've been running the origianl plug wires that came with my jdm 6 bolt f=since i got it and i'm ready to upgrade them so i can install my crane cams hi6di2 ignition without emf interference.
Can anyone tell me if any usdm 1g plug wires will be the proper length to reach the coil packs mounted on a cyclone manifold? I have them mounted at jdm location on the cyclone manifold.
Just didn't want to buy a set and not have them fit. Anyone?

Can the Actuator for the second runners be triggered by using power from the egr circuit and ONLY a hobbes pressure switch (5psi). Once the power is given to the pressure switch, it will open at 5psi, go through thevacuum canister, and smoothly operate the butterflies... the "answer" to the cyclone involves a purge (charcoal purge canister), which is normally open, and a boost controller solenoid(normally closed).... can someone please explain y the purge canister and the bcs are necassary. Im trying to learn here.. Thnx!

I have everything hooked up, after bench testing using a 12V power supply and it worked beautifully. I'll post the diagram shortly (it is a bit different than those shown here). As far as the EGR wire goes, I tested that black/yellow wire with the car warm and I can't get anything out of it except for 40-50mV. It doesn't ground or go 14V above 3000rpm, and I had it up to 3500 to be sure. How does the EGR temp wire get it's rpm and temp signals? If it depends on the thermovalve or ECU then they were removed (AEM EMS) and that certainly explains why.

I want to control it with the EMS but this was a "stock" setup I could share and get done before tomorrow's tuning session with Turbotrix. I'll be sharing closed and open secondary runner power numbers afterwards. Wish me luck that my engine doesn't blow up (has to do with the people that built it).

8.5mm magnecores are barely the right length to the coil pack, but I did do some slight grinding on the bracket. I think I also switched the coils so that "1" is closest to the head: 1-4 then 3-2. I ordered a phenolic spacer for in between the manifold and head and that's going to add a 0.5in, so I'm going to have to grind some more. Oh and anyone that doesn't have the white canister, that dodge dakota part ($7) is about half the size and works flawlessly.

Ken Young

SleeperG said:

Hey guys, i've been running the cyclone manifold for several months. Its driven by a stage 3 keydiver chip with cyclone activation at 4100. Makes for great daily driving out of boost cause the car actually has some low throttle power for stop and go.
I've been running the origianl plug wires that came with my jdm 6 bolt f=since i got it and i'm ready to upgrade them so i can install my crane cams hi6di2 ignition without emf interference.
Can anyone tell me if any usdm 1g plug wires will be the proper length to reach the coil packs mounted on a cyclone manifold? I have them mounted at jdm location on the cyclone manifold.
Just didn't want to buy a set and not have them fit. Anyone?

Click to expand...

I used a set of MSD 8.5 universal wires that you cut to lenght from www.jegs.com part#0121-32499.

This may/may not have been discussed in a past thread but I'll post it anyways...

If you were to use the "dsmchips" method, IE RPM controlled activiation via the FRP solenoid, but either didnt want to get a chip, or were running dsmlink instead, couldnt you:

1. buy a shift light
2. tap the power wire inside the light that is activated once the designated rpm point is reached that normally turns the shift light on
3. send that tapped power signal to the power terminal on the fpr solenoid
4. now the solenoid is activated and opens when you want it too
5. you can adjust that "shift point/activiation point" via pills or the knob type adjusting shift lights

I'm curious to hear from people that know what they are talking about!

I dont see how its worth the time and effort.

I had both, a Correctly working Cyclone Setup with JDM ecu and everything correct, as it was in japan, and i swapped on a USDM manifold exactly like it should be, and noticed absolutley no gains with the Cyclone.

pulls were the same, track times were the same, the only different i ever noticed was Pre boost gas mileage.

is it worth an extra few mpg?
plus it looks real cool.

the only differences was the motor was moved from a 91, to a 92 awd. with new plugs and wires and the usdm intake. the ecu and tranny was all the same.

The car actually was more driveable with the usdm intake.

also, emissoins were removed on both.

Also, Magnecore makes a Special wire for the Cyclone.
it can be found on www.jacksonracing.com

Here is the vac diagram, you can also find it in the tech article.

If I have the secondaries controlled by a DSMCHIP by Keydiver do I need the vacuum canister? The more I research the more confused I get!!
Ay low rpm's the engine is fed by only the long runners, correct? Whhen the secondaries open are all 8 runners feeding the motor or just the short runners? It would seem that all 8 would be required at WOT situations. Sorry if I am repeating something, I am very interested in one of these and just want to get the facts straight. Thanks guys, Mark

The search button is a wonderful thing
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67435
http://www.wideopenwest.com/~ksmith3289/faq/cyclone/gvr4cyclone.html
http://www.dsmtuner.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105746&page=2

And if you have DSMLink heres how to control it with the ECU.
http://www.dsmlink.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3844

Yeah the search option is great! I use it all the time and would suggest it often except it is against the rules. I did say I had done quite a bit of research including this very thread but have become even more confused. Too bad there is not a FAQ on this subject as it could be the subject the most misunderstood and properly explained. I will try the link you provided gixer. I remember you are one of the guys who thinks a properly set-up CYCLONE could be a good intake. I will have all winter to find out if I can find a good unit wiith all I need as far as solenoids and such are included. DSMchip to control the secondaries as I am a big fan of Jeff's work and ethics. Thanks again gixer, Mark

Sorry not trying to be an a$$ did you also look at kengsx postings on his setup?
http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195624
Also check out his home page for more detail.
Yes I do believe that the cyclone is under-rated and will be using it on my 2.4 motor when its completed. Will be running it with a gt35R series air sucker. I have 2 cyclones sitting on the shelf and will be porting one this winter for max flow on the secondarys.

No problem Gixer. I apologize for my sarcasm. I had described how I had read so much on the intake that I was more confused than when I started! I read on dsmchips site that Nate had trouble with surge on his big turbo'd car. I have a Holset HX-35/40 myself. Jeff went on to say there was a shop, in Tampa I believe, that used the intake for big turbo's to assist spool.
I find the intake fascinating! The fact that it is dissed makes me like it even more! That's why I have the Holset, I don't follow the crowded streets! I saw you were cool with the intake man. I am looking at one but with pics long distance I don't know if all I need is there. It seems like if I use the chip to control the secondaries I may not need the white canister, not sure on that. Also confused on coil pack and transistor needed.
Ported CYCLONE sounds really cool. I like this different road type of stuff! Nate may be willing to part with his intake which is probably more complete than the one I am looking at.
Yeah properly set-up and modded(ported/extrude honed) it could work well giving power(TORQUE!) and mileage, respond quicker and look cool! Thanks for the li nks, I had not gotten to those yet. Mark

I'll take pictures this week in detail of the manifold and were everything is connected for ya and post it.

haha, i was the one who started that thread on the dsm link forums back in march i think... and i still haven't figured the damn thing out...granted it's been sitting collecting dust for quite a while... maybe i'll try and get this thing on before the snow starts... when i tried it back then they're werent any good pics of it installed with the vacuum wirings.... does any one else have any better pics? (looks at gixrman)

Well I bought one off ebay. Could just end up being a conversation piece in the garage, but for $45. it's not a big loss! Probably mising some parts. I'll see! mark

OK my question is what's the difference between us 4g63 and the cyclone? better internal? would it be worth it to get one? and hoe hard is it to do an engine swap? what do i need to.

From what i've read about the subject there is no "cyclone" motor. Just the intake manifold is different. I could be wrong but that is what i've read in quite a few reputable places.

ok so would it be better buying a racing intake manifold from ebay? does that make a big diferrence?