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Where are the FWDs at????

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im running low on $$$ right now and im still on street tires. need to get some slicks and/or drag radials soon. but i ran a 14.6 with a MBC, SAFC, and an air filter only. i got to get used to my new set up and do alot of tuning, but my goal is go get into the 11's. :dsm:
 
you will want to get rid of the safc then since you have a 2g and will want to be able to monitor knock.
 
nazthug said:
fwd's shouldn't be at the track unless they are at least on drag radials, otherwise, its just embarrasing

I could never get out of the 14's on street tires...its worthless

I still wish I had an AWD, you never have to worry about putting the power down

I would just love to once be able to go WOT in 1st gear and actually put it all down, that would probably feel pretty nuts

Agreed, I was very happy to run my low 13's on my Falkens which are far from the best drag tires, not as bad as a set of Eagle RSA's or something, but still not that great.
 
Honestly, I don't wonder about the title of this thread. Actually I love being the only decently quick FWD around, and getting around the traction issue is not a problem with slicks and an LSD tranny.

My car is on the quest for lower 11's, and with 12.40's at 118 under my belt this season(and I have only went twice), once I get a decent tune on the car at more boost, it'll be there.

However, I do miss my AWD as things would have been a lot easier.
 
if your profile is correct, I can tell you exactly how to get into the 11's

22" slicks are way way way too small for a high hp, high torque, heavier cars like ours.

Those are strictly designed for all motor civics to get the gearing.

Thats why your 60fts are still over 2.0's

Get some 24.5x8 or 26x9 slicks and you'll get your 60's down to about 1.7-1.8 which right there will give you a 11.9-12.0 simply with the different size.
 
Everything I've read refer to 26" fwd slicks as axle breakers, any truth to that?

I'm looking at some 24.5 x 8 slicks on some steel wheels for mine next year, are the stock axles going to take that kind of punishment? Never ran slicks before. :coy:
 
12's said:
girlieracr4g63-Why do you say high hp doesn't matter. As I recall, the fastest FWD is making over 700whp, not around 300. Topend acceleration helps a lot. I know getting out of the hole is important, but you need the power to accelerate you down the track also. We'll see if I can get to the track this year with my FWD and new turbo. I am good at launching an awd, but hae never launched a fwd before. The studder box and 26x10 slicks should help though.

Look at it this way...I can pretty much guarantee that project goodwill is NOT a high HP car. I guess what I'm saying is that a huge amount of HP on a fwd IMO is just a waste...However I do agree that it is going to take of course more than stock to get you there. In a fwd you just have to find that happy medium. Now if you are planning on keeping that car heavy as lead then YES of course you are going to need the HP to spin you down the track. I think what aggravates me the most is everyone's solution to get that timeslip is HP HP HP ie. huge turbo etc.. Btw.good luck with the fwd, and I promise driving it is nothing like an awd.. :D

12.1 on a (non evo) big16 with my 91gst, and less than 400HP.


Wendy
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Look at it this way...I can pretty much guarantee that project goodwill is NOT a high HP car. I guess what I'm saying is that a huge amount of HP on a fwd IMO is just a waste...However I do agree that it is going to take of course more than stock to get you there. In a fwd you just have to find that happy medium. Now if you are planning on keeping that car heavy as lead then YES of course you are going to need the HP to spin you down the track. I think what aggravates me the most is everyone's solution to get that timeslip is HP HP HP ie. huge turbo etc.. Btw.good luck with the fwd, and I promise driving it is nothing like an awd.. :D

12.1 on a (non evo) big16 with my 91gst, and less than 400HP.


Wendy

Was that 12.1 on slicks?
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Yes, it was on slicks....24.5 x 8's pics in profile.


Wendy

I was going to ask you how much you'd tin-canned the car to get it there on radials, but with slicks there's alot you could still leave in the car. I know that with slicks I should be able to shave a good .6 off my e.t.
 
mavisky said:
I was going to ask you how much you'd tin-canned the car to get it there on radials, but with slicks there's alot you could still leave in the car. I know that with slicks I should be able to shave a good .6 off my e.t.

Yeah, they help ALOT! ;) However the car is still very light. :shhh: All I can say tho its no where near as light as goodwills car..LOL


Wendy
 
Yea I think at best mine might be down to 2600, but i realistically think i'm more in the 2700-2800 range with me in the car, of course me weighing in at 195 isn't helping the car get down the track any faster. ROFL
 
mavisky said:
Yea I think at best mine might be down to 2600, but i realistically think i'm more in the 2700-2800 range with me in the car, of course me weighing in at 195 isn't helping the car get down the track any faster. ROFL

HAHAHA!! No really there are all kinds of tricks to shed off the pounds. It just depends on how far you are willing to take it. :sneaky:


Wendy
 
Im going to go with 24.5x8.5 slicks, 26" seem like a pain to launch cause of the higher gearing, you'd really have to wind it up

IM looking for 400whp(currently at 344whp on old turbo no cams) and the only weight I will take out is passanger seat, rear seats and spare tire, possibly a CF hood and trunk lid in the future, not much more though. Power will go through a TRE tranny and quaife, lookin realistically for 1.9 60fts

I am looking to be comfortably in the mid to low 12's and thats all I really want. My roomates 370whp srt4 on slicks goes 11.8's
 
I'm still on the bandwagon that dsm's are set up like shit from the factory suspension and weight x-fer wise. 1g's are worse and 2g's are slightly better. I have two fwd's and both of them unload the passangers side wheel with authority, well at least when stock. My 90 fwd barely spins at wot in first after getting aligned and its a 114 trapping car (on a bad day with the new parts). Its not tin canned and to be honest, its still set up like shit. It needs better corner weighting and handling of the weight in general when launching. 2.1 sixties should be easilly attainable in a stock fwd street tires, 2.0's with slight suspension work street tires. 1.9's with some good corner weighting, control of the weight x-fer, still open diff, street tires etc... If you aren't cutting at least 1.8's on slicks its a waste IMO. Slicks should be making awd esque sixties, but with unloading problems till about the eighth.
 
danl said:
I'm still on the bandwagon that dsm's are set up like shit from the factory suspension and weight x-fer wise. 1g's are worse and 2g's are slightly better. I have two fwd's and both of them unload the passangers side wheel with authority, well at least when stock. My 90 fwd barely spins at wot in first after getting aligned and its a 114 trapping car (on a bad day with the new parts). Its not tin canned and to be honest, its still set up like shit. It needs better corner weighting and handling of the weight in general when launching. 2.1 sixties should be easilly attainable in a stock fwd street tires, 2.0's with slight suspension work street tires. 1.9's with some good corner weighting, control of the weight x-fer, still open diff, street tires etc... If you aren't cutting at least 1.8's on slicks its a waste IMO. Slicks should be making awd esque sixties, but with unloading problems till about the eighth.


I agree, my car badly needs a change from the eibach sportlines to a real set of coilovers to help me get better traction as well as handling on the autox circuit.
 
fastaseagle said:
just get a pocket logger since 2g's cant monitor knock you will want to look at your timing for dips which indicate knock.. 1g's look for knock, 2g's look for timing. :thumb:

Pocket loggers are a waste and 2g's can monitor knock if they are using dsmlink..
 
girlieracr4g63 said:
Look at it this way...I can pretty much guarantee that project goodwill is NOT a high HP car. I guess what I'm saying is that a huge amount of HP on a fwd IMO is just a waste...However I do agree that it is going to take of course more than stock to get you there. In a fwd you just have to find that happy medium. Now if you are planning on keeping that car heavy as lead then YES of course you are going to need the HP to spin you down the track. I think what aggravates me the most is everyone's solution to get that timeslip is HP HP HP ie. huge turbo etc.. Btw.good luck with the fwd, and I promise driving it is nothing like an awd.. :D

12.1 on a (non evo) big16 with my 91gst, and less than 400HP.


Wendy

I know launching a FWD is completely different, but my 26x10 slicks should help a little.
 
so what is everyone using as far as axles go?? I have a new oem driver side axle and I have a ripped cv boot on my passanger so it needs to be replaced. I am afraid of breaking my u joint/hub assemblies with slicks. Anyone running either raxles/driveshaft shop stage 5 axles?


I think we get pretty much dicked in this department. I looked at both raxles and driveshaft shop and at both places they use the stock ujoints/ and the whole assebly where the splines connect into either the trannny or hub in their stage 3 axles. To get a pretty much bullet proof axle set up you would have to go with their stage 5 kit and that costs 1500. Any other suggestions?
 
I ran a 13.0 at 109 last night. Cars still got a lot left in it too. Had a OK tune, but def. can get alot better (can tell from traps) I was running 25psi on FWD on 24.5x15x8 slicks. I need rear shocks damnit! Was pulling 2.0-2.1 60' times. Def. a mid 12 sec car, I can tell!
Oh and its Daily Driven, w/out the slicks of course. Stock axles and no LSD too.
 
I’ve only broken one axle in 4 years of racing and that was a Raxles axle that was under a year old. They are nice OEM replacements but IMO are not a drag racing axle. I believe they manufacture new splines and they aren’t as strong as stock. However oddly enough I haven’t broken any Autozone axles which I’ve been using for about 3 years now. They now come with new joints in the outer portion and are stiff with no play as they were 5 or so years ago. I have all Autozone axles in my 90 and just bought a set for my 91 gst today as well and have been pleased with them. Maybe I’ve just been lucky though.
 
damn you guys gotta look at this time


r/t: .506 (best reaction ever)
60ft: 1.985 (best 60 foot ever with my dr)
330ft: 10.05 @ 10mph
660ft: 15.24 @ 2mph
1320ft: [email protected]

haha my axle broke right after i shifted into 2nd but damn look at the 60ft with dr

damn and that was my first run too o well cut my afternoon short
 
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