The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support STM Tuned

Welcome to the Engine rebuild club!

What level are you rebuilding your engine to?

  • OEM

    Votes: 42 18.8%
  • Mild

    Votes: 83 37.1%
  • Wild

    Votes: 70 31.3%
  • Ridiculous

    Votes: 29 12.9%

  • Total voters
    224
  • Poll closed .

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

turbo90gsx said:
Yepppahhh. Got mine all back together and after 22 miles my timming belt got shreaded and smacked all my valves into the pistons. Now I get to redo the head....AGIAN! :barf:

How?

Wrong screw length in the oil pan near the timing belt side?
 
Does this little bastard look familiar to you guys????

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Well if you didn't know it goes...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


and holds the tensioner pully bracket in place.

I can't believe that blew my mind when I was putting the timing belt back on. I'm never going to forget this. Okay here's what happened after much investigating. While driving the car the tensioner bracket slipped off of its pivot dowel, slamming the pulley and belt into the belt cover, which pushed the belt up onto the back edge of the pulling, tearing up the belt along with probably ever thing else on the front cover.


If anyone EVER makes the same mistake that I did, I will personally kick you in your ass! This was totally my fault, something that should have never happened if I had looked at thing closer. If I could kick myself in the balls I would do it, but I can't so that won't happen. DON'T DO THIS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
After a spun rod bearing, I went back to OEM. It was a fun ride, things seemed to go great. Got the motor back in and she even starts up and sounds excellent.

One problem.

MY OIL IS LIKE 1/2 COOLANT!!!!!!!!

compression is fine. no external leaks. The head is new and tested, and the block is good, it was driven just prior to me installing it with no problems. The coolant isnt coming from the oil cooler or turbo, i capped those off and changed the oil like 3 times. The car has been running a total of like 3 min.

Can anyone think of anything on the timing side of the block (or the transmission side) that I could have screwed up or not put back together correctly that would cause this? Any plugs? I bought the mitsu gasket set and I didn't run into any problems. I guess you could say I was 99% completed, and now I am back to about 50%, maybe 25%. I could really use some ideas.
 
You sure the head isnt cracked internally, allowing oil and water to enter through there? It would have to be somewhere that oil and water come close to each other. Could compression still be good and still allow oil and water to mix between the block and the head?
 
im doing 2 at the moment... one is being done by a shop and the other i am doing in my garage... my parts list for my 2.0 is in my signiture

my garage rebuild is a g4cs 2.4L block with a 2g 4g63 head and intake manifold

interals arent choosen yet BUT i know what i want

10.5 CR pistons .020 over for a full 87mm bore
1G bigrods
rebuilt but stock valvetrain (possibly shimmed springs)
topline full engine gasket kit
used front cover (ill put a new one on after 10000 miles... maybe less)
topline waterpump
adjustable cam gears
1g turbo intake cam
2g turbo exh cam
homedone BSE (hacksaw to BOTH... and leaving gears)

hoping for some powerful lowend torque....... :thumb:
 
this is a cheap boy rebuild maybe $500
the motor was in great shape for 180000 mile( thank god for mobil syn 15w50 say what you will but this car has had mobil in it sence day one and the cylinder walls still had the factory cross hatching from the origanal hone)
new rings,
new rod and mains,
removed counter balance shafts
2g pistons
90 modle cams
ported and polished head
ported 1g o2 houseing (if you have a 2g for sale cheap please PM me)
painted the block gloss black then cleared
painted alt,ps,water pipe,ac, and any thing else i could find to pain grabber green
cleaned and painted trans. gloss black and clear

I had no reason to rebuild the motor (no knock no smoke) but sence i had a set of rings laying around and alot of spare gaskets i did any way :talon:
IS THERE A PROBLEM WITH USEING FELTPRO HEAD GASKETS?


6 bolt
 
RiceKiller_TSi said:
Second gen exhaust cams are more aggressive than first gen?

personally... i have no idea... but thats what i got now and that might be changed later on in the buildup... i still have parts to get... remember?... LOL... but if you know if they really are better itd be nicer to know... if not... oh well... its just a cheapy buildup right now tho... i just got done taking it apart... but i am still planning... if i can do it better, faster, cheaper, then i will... most of my parts (other than the waterpump and rotating assembly) will be out of a junkyard...

i also noticed that on dsmtalk my parts list is in my sig... i dont have a sig. here on dsmtuners.... so here it is

JE 8.5:1 cr forged pistons
eagle esp forged connecting rods
crower racing single valvesprings
port n' polish head
Ferrea racing valves (standard size)
Venom fuel pump


:::the not so great mods:::
pacestter catback exhaust
pacesetter header
K&N filtercharger (soon to be with hardpipe)
accel 8mm sparkplug wires
2.5 inch cat (old as hell... "catco" ring any bells?)

:::new parts im prolly gonna need to get due to shop incompitence:::
fuel rail (stock)
550 cc Injectors
SAFCII
harmonic balancer and accessory pullies
lower t-belt cover
coil pack (time for special ign. setup)
 
noodlez60 said:
personally... i have no idea... but thats what i got now and that might be changed later on in the buildup... i still have parts to get... remember?... LOL... but if you know if they really are better itd be nicer to know.

I seriously don't know. I was hitting YOU up for more info. LOL
 
i just picked up a 7bolt outta a 1g targa today)targa is black w blackrims..sweet! (with euro popups the shorter aero versions and al)l.. i just took the motor,i have no space for the targa 1g..i hope it goes into loving hands - its sitting there in the guys nixce garage..all alone. :cry: i wish i had the money toi buy it

anyways.. im rebuilding this motor to a mild level..maz go for a strokerkit tho,im not 100% sure yet

btw i drove 11 hours today to pick up this motor and bring it back home..im so happy..i paid 120$ for the whole motor ( when i agreed to buy the motor,i thought i was just getting the bottom end)

i asked the guy to send me a pic,so if its ok,ill post a pic from this beatiful targa in this thread


the motor is my autumn/winter project
mild,forged pistons..maybe stroker..maybe cams (as i need $$ for a different turbo)
 
I'm almost done. I got the engine back last monday and i've been spending a few hours after work each day putting it back together. I just have to bolt the transmission back up and drop it in. I just might hear this ol' Banshee scream once again. :dsm:
 
98 GSX we are currently building for my fathers car.
-Pauter Forged Rods
-8.5:1 JE Forged Pistons
-Stainless Steel Total Seal Rings
-Fully Ported Cylinder Head
-Ferrea Stainless Steel Valves
-Comp Cams Intake, Exhaust 200 Series
-Forced Performance FP3055 Ball Bearing Turbo
-Ferrea Titanium Retainers
-Ferrea Valve Springs
-64mm Oversized Throttle body
-Fully Blueprinted Assembly
-B&M Oil Cooler With Fan
-FP Comp Clutch
-750cc Denso Nippon Injectors
-Liquid CO2 Intercooler Spray
-45mm Turbosmart Pro Gate Wastegate
-38mm Turbosmart Dual Blow Off Valve
-Turbosmart e-Boost Boost Controller
-Apexi S-AFC II
-Apexi Rev/Speed Meter
-Fluidyne Radiator
-Flexalite 12" Dual Fans
-Forced Performance 2.5" O2 Housing Replacement
-JAYTEE Racing Engines Custom Dump Tube
-Vector 2 Piece Harmonic Balancer
-Greddy 24R FMIC
-Greddy Oil Catch Can
-Modified 1G Intake Manifold
-Venom Cam Gears
-ARP Head and Main Studs
-Cometic Head Gasket .036"
-Aeromotive A1000 Fuel Pump
-Aeromotive FPR
-Aeromotive 10 Micron Fuel Filter
-Aeromotive 100 Micron Fuel Filter
-Earl's/Russells/Aeromotive Fuel Line Hardware
-Aeroquip Stainless Steel Fuel Lines
-Custom Header Modified from Tubular Pacesetter
-Nordskog A/F Gauge
-Autometer Intake Temp.
-Autometer Pyrometer
-Autometer Oil Pressure
-Autometer Pro Tach.
-Autometer Vaccum Boost Gauge
-MSD DIS-2 Ignition
-MSD 8.5mm Plug Wires
-Greddy Turbo Timer
-Remote Oil Filter
-Technomotive ECU Stage II
-Custom Short Shifter
-200 Watt Pioneer Amp
-Dual 10" Pioneer Subs
-Buschur 3" Downpipe
-Buschur 3" Converter
-Thermal 3" Catback Exhaust
-Longacre Air Density Gauge
K&N Cone Filter With Custom Ported Housing
-Driveshaft Shop 650HP Axels
-Driveshaft Shop 2 Piece Aluminum Driveshaft
-Crankscraper
-Kevlar Timing Belt
 
The Talon is Done!!!

Put the engine in today, and it coughed to life about four or five times before I realized I had the spark plugs backwards. Fixed them up, then it hummed to life. It's a world of difference when you're using all four cylinders. With the 8.5:1 CR, it pulls just as hard at 10 psi as the old setup did at 15 psi. Still some rough edges to smooth over, but overall, I'm a happy camper.
 
Quasimondo said:
The Talon is Done!!!

Put the engine in today, and it coughed to life about four or five times before I realized I had the spark plugs backwards. Fixed them up, then it hummed to life. It's a world of difference when you're using all four cylinders. With the 8.5:1 CR, it pulls just as hard at 10 psi as the old setup did at 15 psi. Still some rough edges to smooth over, but overall, I'm a happy camper.

Sweet! I'm waiting for my new injectors and clutch and I'm right there with ya.
 
I'm doing a bottom end with Ross pistons eagle rods arp hardware all around and a cometic headgasket not sure what i want to do with my head yet though. :talon:
 
If it's within your budget, go with some oversized exhaust valves. A friend of mine did that and he felt a noticable difference at the top end, even with stock cams.
 
pic from my recent 6bolt swap...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
mild 6 bolt rebuild. about 1500 bucks in the hole..

2g pistons
1g rods (nitrided and balanced)
clevite bearings
arp mains/rods
mitsu mls headgasket
supertech valves
titanium springs/retainers
20g
etc.
 
Well, I still haven't gotten my engine in the car. I was about to install it the weekend that Katrina hit but one of my pressure plate bolts broke and my idler pulley was frozen. Here's where it is as of today. I hope to be up and running in a week.
 

Attachments

  • katrina.jpg
    katrina.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 399
i'm going to a mild setup...just received the head yesterday. Actually sold my 18rims/AEM big brake kit, (went back to stock) just for some more funds.

Don't worry will be getting new rims/brakes in the future :D
























a beast will be made with this one!!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top