92AWDHX40
Supporting Member
- 13,613
- 1,570
- May 22, 2007
-
Kalamazoo,
Michigan
Cool
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I will definitely be using the speaker foam blockers. Had no idea these existed.Been a couple weeks since I've been able to work on the Talon...I've been doing some landscaping projects in the mean time. I did find time to work on it today though. This particular project is taking much longer than I thought.
I wanted to get the driver's side door done today. That meant getting speaker wire into it, sound deadening it, wiring it, installing the speaker and re-doing the vapor barrier...
I started with the speaker wire. It's a huge bi*** getting it through the accordion tube from the door into the interior. Took awhile, but I managed. I'm using 12gauge wire from Knu-Conceptz.
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I then began sound deadening the interior of the door. Way back in my teens when I used to do more car audio installations, I recall the "rule" being to cover approx 25% of a panel to achieve 90% effective sound deadening. So that's what I aimed for. The "tap test" on the outside of the door confirmed this pretty well. I used more deadening the close I got to the speaker housing.
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This piece that houses the grab handle was a bit rusty, so I used rust converter, primed and painted it black.
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I used a sponge bass blocker pad right behind the speaker housing, on top of some sound deadener for max absorption. I'm trying to get as much of the sound from the speaker into the interior of the car. I'm using 6" JL Audio speakers so these are sized for that.
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In areas where the wiring harnesses in the door may vibrate and make noise, I cover them with neoprene rubber and secure with Tesa tape.
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I re-did the vapor barrier where I couldn't use sound deadening effectively. Our doors are kinda weird how they routed the lock and handle mechanisms...they go both inside and outside of the door, so I used new plastic in these areas. I used Killmat sheets cut to size to cover the holes where I didn't want to use plastic like the stock configuration. To secure the plastic, I used strip caulk. Here's the finished product. I also used foam speaker rings on the outside of the speaker and techflex on the larger wiring harness.
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That's awesome, man! Looking good!And I'm back...the Benz is in the shop getting full PPF on it, so I thought I'd take this opportunity while I have more garage space to get some things done on the Talon.
Firs thing I wanted to do was replace my fuel/brake line separators. I had the new brackets made for me and modified the stock plastic separators to allow for the -6an fuel lines. It worked, but it wasn't the prettiest. Thankfully, when chatting with @92Turbski, (Thank you sir!) he pointed me in the direction of some brand new line separators from HEF 3D. You can get these customized depending on the size of the lines you have. 3D printed and sturdy. Came in a nice little case and he even included some caramels. Those darn Canadians are the nicest!
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Had to get under the car and remove my brackets again and load these up, but that's not a big deal.
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Next item on the list was to get the ugly red fender all prepped and painted. I got this fender many years ago because I just knew I'd need it eventually. I had replaced my other one years ago for the same thing. Rust likes to form where the fender meets the front bumper cover by the side markers. My stock one was in rough shape as you can see if you scroll up a bit. I bought a cheap little part stand from Harbor Freight just for this purpose.
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This fender came to me with a couple broken bolts still installed in it. In the typical spot they usually break, in the same location I mentioned above. That area just must accumulate moisture. These damn things wouldn't budge. I had to torch them out. Lots of heat and lots of penetrating oil and I finally got them to turn out.
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I started with 100 grit on a sander and went to work. This fender had a lot of failing/flaking clearcoat. I went over the entire thing getting rid of all the shine and making everything smooth. I noticed there was a spot with some previous bodywork. Couldn't really tell what was repaired. The fender looks nice and straight with no rust. Inside at that spot looks good too. I then went over everything again by hand using 600 grit and a sponge to make it even smoother, but still keep it rough enough for paint to stick.
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Cleaned it up nice, then began applying several coats of a 2K primer. First time using a 2K primer so interested to see how much more durable it is.
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That's where I stopped for today. Didn't get a chance to get any basecoat on. Next weekend I'll wetsand it with 600 grit to make sure the primer is nice and smooth, then I'll apply a few coats of base, then 2K clearcoat. FYI, I'm dong all of this with rattlecans. It works just fine for small-ish parts like this.
No, not at all. POR actually stands for "Paint Over Rust". Just scrape all the really flaky stuff off and go to town. Two coats for sure, waiting about 2 hours between coats. Then topcoat after a day or two. If you can get to both sides of the rusty area that would be best. go back a ways as I used it a ton during this build thread to get some tips I used to make it easier...like prepping the area. That is essential.That wheel well rust and the POR15 .... do you have to eradicate every speck of the existing rust before using it?
I'm looking at fixing my 05 Toyota Sequoia which has similar rust on the lower dogleg area which is common for those. Looking at it, I'll have to grind it out and it's kind of a complicated area where panels are coming together etc.
Looks great, nice job!Continued and finished the fender today. Wasn't thrilled with the smoothness of the finish after last wek so I did some more sanding with 400grit sandpaper. Smoothed out the areas of concern, then re-primered them. After it was dry, I then wetsanded the entire fender with 600grit sandpaper.
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I then began the basecoat. I love this color so this was my favorite part. If you don't have this little spray can accessory, get one. It makes jobs like this way easier.
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I did about 4 coats of base...here's the first and last coats.
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If your paint has any kind of metallic flake/sparkle, you don't want to wetsand the last coat of base. I typically don't wetsand my basecoats. I then coated with 2K clearcoat for added strength. Here's a couple coats and the final finish. I think it turned out pretty well!
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Nice, man! Couple little sweet victories there.Small update for you guys. I had some time last weekend so took care of a few minor things I've been meaning to jump on.
First things first, I wanted to address my door handle squeaking a bit ever since I did all that stuff inside the door panel. So, off the door panel came (broke more clips, <sigh>) so I could get to the linkage. I applied some white lithium WD-40 liberally. Here's what you're aiming for inside the door. My squeaking was coming from the assembly on the lower left there, but I sprayed it all. and used the lock, and door handle several times. No more squeak and I have to say everything is just much more smooth and responsive. Next time you have your door panels off, give these a spray. You'll thank me later.
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the main task though, was to remove my crusty and very loud door stop and door pin on the driver's side. You have to access it inside the door. I found going in through the speaker hole was easiest.
Here's the old nasty: the two 10mm nuts are on the other side of the door in the jamb. Remove the pin with a small hammer, remove the two nuts and pull it inside of the door to remove.
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Here's the comparison old and new:
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If you're ever replacing these, they are labeled which side they go on. The side you're doing faces up.
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While I had the old one out, I noticed the tab it connects to and the tab above it for the fender were a little rusty. I def don't want either of these tabs rusting out, so I removed the rust, primed and topcoated. Here's the before/after
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after:
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Here's new doorstop installed with new pin:
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One of the big reasons I lost my motivation the last few months, is because when I pulled off the old rusty fender, I discovered this huge gaping hole that rust had gotten ahold of. I'm still trying to think of a way to fix it. I think it would be hard to acquire this piece as a patch panel from another car. For now, I'm just going to try and ignore it (that's super difficult for me) and move on with the project.
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That's the problem. There's a mounting point for the fender down there all rusted away.That's common por 15 for now cut out the rust. I'll probably be a issue once the fenders goes on.
So far with the Benz, I have tinted the windows, full PPF to protect the satin paint and I did a Eurocharged Stage 1 Tune. I put it away for the winter two weeks ago. I'll be putting wheel spacers on it in the spring to make the stance more mean. I like my wheels flush with the fenders, not tucked in at all.Nice, man! Couple little sweet victories there.
Don't sweat the patch, when you're ready it'll be easier than you imagine!
Have you done any work to the Benz? Ecu flash...etc.
Heck yeah. I'm not even familiar with any of that powertrain but I'm sure it made it even more intense. HahaThat's the problem. There's a mounting point for the fender down there all rusted away.
So far with the Benz, I have tinted the windows, full PPF to protect the satin paint and I did a Eurocharged Stage 1 Tune. I put it away for the winter two weeks ago. I'll be putting wheel spacers on it in the spring to make the stance more mean. I like my wheels flush with the fenders, not tucked in at all.