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99 GSX Rebirth/Clean-Up/Build

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place the car on the ground once the shocks and reset again. measure the hub centers to a bit of masking tape on the arch's and then jack it back up on stands again, then jack each wheel up to the same height and thats very close enough within 1-2 mm's and thats have you do that much easier
That is a great idea. I will definitely be doing that haha! Thank you sir!
 
That is a great idea. I will definitely be doing that haha! Thank you sir!
its what I do all the time to base line alot of bits, I also use this setup when running bumpsteer tests. makes life a lot easier
 
That is a great idea. I will definitely be doing that haha! Thank you sir!
Be mindful that with a stiff suspension setup the car might start to lift off the jacks before you get the hub to the proper level. You can either add some weight to the area of the vehicle you're jacking up or remove the shock and replace when done. I've also had luck placing other vehicles on ramps which gave me enough room underneath to work with.
 
Be mindful that with a stiff suspension setup the car might start to lift off the jacks before you get the hub to the proper level. You can either add some weight to the area of the vehicle you're jacking up or remove the shock and replace when done. I've also had luck placing other vehicles on ramps which gave me enough room underneath to work with.
I've definitely ran into this one. I will more than likely pull the shock!
 
I get the idea - make the suspension arms tight with the suspension sitting at the static ride height. This makes sense if you are using factory bushings that don't pivot, and you want to set them in an un-stressed neutral position. But with spherical, and poly bushings that do pivot, I don't see the need?
 
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I get the idea - make the suspension arms tight with the suspension sitting at the static ride height. This makes sense if you are using factory bushings that don't pivot, and you want to set tem in an un-stressed neutral position. But with spherical, and poli bushings that do pivot, I don't see the need?
snap good catch, i must of forgot about the polybushes and just assumed oem arms and bushes! how did i miss that!

so yeah as Justin says poly bushes dont need to be set at ride height. the ONLY one you will need to do is the front upper arm as i think thats about your only oem type bush now right? its been a while i see the suspension side on this build i might need to back track myself and refresh
 
So spent some time dialing in the harness.

My Alternator plug was totally destroyed, so I need a new one of those, and also noticed my trigger wire and the generator relay were missing. With the help from Dusty I was able to get all of that squared away so my small alternator demons SHOULD be solved.

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I got the power cables all upgraded from the parallel 10AWG to single 4GA runs. This was for the Alternator power, and the two parallel runs for fuse box power.

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This is about it. The fuse box and junction box will live under the passenger dash, and you can see the interior harness plugs will come from the top of the dash down to the female plugs, and both fender runs for the lights etc. Glad I got this all figured out, I was not happy with my previous fuse box setup.

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Peace!
 
Also, all the manuals say to have the car on the ground before doing torqueing everything to final spec. How does everyone reach the upper control arm thru-bolt with the car on the ground? Lol
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Here's a couple pictures from the service manual showing the angles that the control arms need to be bolted down at. Hopefully it helps.
 
Yo!

I (believe) I finished all the wiring for the fusebox harness this weekend. I say "believe" because the flashers don't work, but I also don't have the front bulbs plugged in. I'm missing one of the sockets. So maybe the flashers don't work unless you have all the bulbs plugged in... LOL. I vaguely remember the turn signals don't work while the car isn't running, but that could just be bad memory. I couldn't test the hazard button either as I didn't have the dash in. I'll put the dash in and get all the bulbs put in and test it out though.

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I need to do the updated EDM taillight rewire also. That is why the ambers are currently lit.

Peace!
 
Yo!

Cleaned up the garage a bit. I got the dash in to make sure all lights/blinkers etc are working properly, which they do. So I went ahead and finalized the wiring harness that is under the dash and permanently installed the dash, finally!

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Parts stock pile is getting smaller and smaller!

Peace!
 
I have finished up the fuse box harness/ routing etc so figured it was time to get started on the interior.

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There is SO much room under the dash with all the HVAC items/ducting removed, its pretty funny how empty it is under there.

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I went ahead and got the supply/return lines along with the FPR and filter installed where I want them. I used to have the FPR mounted to the upper bay area, but I accidentally welded that hole up LOL. I think there is sufficient room where I have it now.

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SHOULD have my longblock ready anyday now to drop in. I'll then quickly re-do the engine harness and will be off to the races!!

Peace
 
I’m not sure if I hadn’t noticed before, but I love the look of the black AEM gauge faces on the pillar with the white car and white cluster faces. It’s the little touches.
 
For whatever reason I like to keep the crash bar, so trimmed that to fit the new intercooler core.

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I also got the door cards and some other misc. installed inside the car. Super bummed that the lock actuators are not working, neither is the key fob. I assume I will have to get new lock actuators and probably rebuild them at some point. Until then Manual locking is all that I will have....

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Peace!
 
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