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2G What possibly have went out in my Transmission

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Pushed

Probationary Member
19
1
Feb 6, 2022
Katy, Texas
Trying to pinpoint my issue here on why I'm not able to put any power down as of recently on my stock 99' GSX.

About 2 weeks ago while driving the car started making a very loud screeching noise when accelerating (like belt squeal, but more high pitched) which would go away if I got off the throttle for .5 seconds and went back on. The next day is when the issue finally arose to where I can barely get the car to move in any gear 1st-5th, although I can feel the clutch engaging for every gear.

Basically in laymen's terms the car feels like its slipping all the time but its not. I checked my axles, they aren't snapped or stripped, and I've replaced my T-case thinking it was that but it wasn't so that leaves me w/ 3 things I could possibly check which is the Front Diff, Center Diff, or Clutch even though everyone on FB says that its not the clutch.

So now its just me trying to figure out what gave out because the car will still roll a little bit when I throw it in gear, but we're talking like 10mph at max since I can't put any power down.

Quick note the car will not die if I put it in any gear and let off the clutch w/no accelerator, it'll just creep forward/backward depending on which gear I'm in. I've attached a video below on what the car did the night it happened while in 4th gear going like 15mph initially (no I'm not spinning tire)

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The front diff has the speedo gear. Power is indeed going to the front differential based on that. Check your viscous coupler in the transmission, it may be shot. Failing that, power might not be going to the front axle(s) properly. Are you 100% sure your axles haven't failed somewhere on the inboard joints?
 
The front diff has the speedo gear. Power is indeed going to the front differential based on that. Check your viscous coupler in the transmission, it may be shot. Failing that, power might not be going to the front axle(s) properly. Are you 100% sure your axles haven't failed somewhere on the inboard joints?

I was looking around the forum and did the "front diff" check since I never knew that there was a big orange sticker on the driver side door saying to not spin one wheel at a time, etc, etc. Anyways that sticker wasn't there for me, so here's the results I got.

With the passenger front wheel up only I'm only able to turn the wheel at most like 10 degrees back and forth, the driver side however spins freely, like no resistance, nothing is making a clicking sound or anything so I just put the car back on the ground and let it sit for the time being to see if I can get some answers

I know that our front diffs are open diffs and not limited slips like how the rear is, so this kinda sounds right in my head.
 
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When both front wheels are off the ground, when you spin one wheel, does the other spin the opposite direction?
 
was looking around the forum and did the "front diff" check since i never knew that there was a big orange sticker on the driver side door saying to not spin one wheel at a time, etc etc. Anyways that sticker wasn't there for me, so heres the results i got. With the passenger front wheel up only im only able to turn the wheel at most like 10 degrees back and forth, the driver side however spins freely, like no resistance, nothing is making a clicking sound or anything so i just put the car back on the ground and let it sit for the time being to see if i can get some answers
Explain this. Both front wheels in the air only one spins? Was there anything that happened leading up to this? Did you launch the car? Any recent work?
 
Yeah this doesn't really make sense. The differential is doing what it should, the only unusual symptom is the left wheel being able to turn freely with the other side on the ground. Best guess is the driver's side front axle failed.
 
Explain this. Both front wheels in the air only one spins? Was there anything that happened leading up to this? Did you launch the car? Any recent work?

Nah the driver side only does that when its the only wheel off the ground.

The car is stock so I haven't bothered trying to launch it etc besides like accelerating when am already going like 50+ mph.

As far as mods done to the car that wasn't done by me. It has a Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel w/some clutch setup that I haven't been able to see since its on the other side of where the T-case is, car is also on drilled/slotted rotors (I have no idea what brand these are but they're pretty good) but that's about it on mods the car already came with when I bought it.

Now after purchasing the car didn't run since the fuel pump was dead, etc so that's when I put a AEM 340LPH (+rewire), a Fuellab FPR, and some Control Arms/Bushings in the rear since that's initially why the previous owner let it sit since like 2016.

Only took about a week to get it up and running and it runs pretty damn strong. Did all the maintenance (fluids, belts, etc) and replaced the alternator w/ a MCR one wire setup since the previous one was fried probably from the elements or heat. That's pretty much all I've done to the car so far which is pretty much nothing.

It's been my "daily" so I don't beat on it, I just happen to experience a new issue every like 2 weeks or so idk
 
I would check axles again. If not there check transfercase input splines. If not that id say inside trans. Center diff and viscous coupling
 
I would check axles again. If not there check transfercase input splines. If not that id say inside trans. Center diff and viscous coupling
input splines were good when i replaced the T-case, no sheering whatsoever

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I am of the opinion that the clutch has lost some of its material and the sound you heard was the metal on metal of the clutch disk against the flywheel. Try to peak up into the clutch area thru the throw out fork boot and see if you find any clutch material laying around or scattered. This is where a bore scope would come in handy.
 
I am of the opinion that the clutch has lost some of its material and the sound you heard was the metal on metal of the clutch disk against the flywheel. Try to peak up into the clutch area thru the throw out fork boot and see if you find any clutch material laying around or scattered. This is where a bore scope would come in handy.
Just peaked up there a second ago and there's like 0 clutch material anywhere around or on the clutch pressure plate, as stated the clutch and flywheel are brand new. If you're on the DSM nation group on FB, I'm posting an 8 minute vid of going around under the car, etc and giving a better visual for everyone
 
Not a facebooker. This, youtube and instagram is all. I will look at the video, glad you posted it.
In the video, I see the passenger side CV shaft that looks like it popped out at the transmission. Can you press (it will snap in place) it back into the transmission any at all?
Does anyone else see the passenger side shaft in the video? I can't tell if it is seated into the trans.
 
Not a facebooker. This, youtube and instagram is all. I will look at the video, glad you posted it.
In the video, I see the passenger side CV shaft that looks like it popped out at the transmission. Can you press (it will snap in place) it back into the transmission any at all?
Does anyone else see the passenger side shaft in the video? I can't tell if it is seated into the trans.
Just went to go check this and it doesn't move left to right, except like 2mm in the wheel hub area where it just makes a clicking noise, maybe I don't have the damn muscles to move the axle itself cuz I'm not big LOL

ok time to pull out the sledge, pretty sure my axle just popped out
 
Well, that is what I saw but wasn't sure if it was the problem or not. There is a circlip on the end of the shaft that keeps it in the transmission. :thumb:
 
Well once I get this back in, I'll test and see whether that was the issue or not, until then I gotta get me a 32mm socket

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Definitely should not be seeing that. The seal, well, seals against that shiny surface on the right. As you've been driving, clean it well. I hope that's not rust already forming on it.
 
Definitely should not be seeing that. The seal, well, seals against that shiny surface on the right. As you've been driving, clean it well. I hope that's not rust already forming on it.
Yeah who knows how old these axles are, splines are clean regardless shouldn't be too hard to put it back in once the axle nut is off
 
The axle should be seatable even with the nut on, though it would make it easier with the nut off. As Marty said, there is a circlip that keeps it well seated. If you're missing that, or it's broken, or you have a serious suspension geometry issue, the axle would be able to pop out of the transmission and you're going to have a bad time... again.
 
The axle should be seatable even with the nut on, though it would make it easier with the nut off. As Marty said, there is a circlip that keeps it well seated. If you're missing that, or it's broken, or you have a serious suspension geometry issue, the axle would be able to pop out of the transmission and you're going to have a bad time... again.
Possibly, still gonna take the axle nut off and hammer it back in because the axle nut is all the way tightened and won't go back any farther which makes sense because the cotter pin for the axle wasnt even really sitting inside the castle nut but somewhat protruding out of it
 
If that axle seats again, watch for anymore slipping from the Viscous Coupler, as that is what was moving the car IF that axle wasn't seated.
Just want you to be aware of that. Pretty easy to access if need be.
 
Tear it all apart
Definitely should not be seeing that. The seal, well, seals against that shiny surface on the right. As you've been driving, clean it well. I hope that's not rust already forming on it.
. Inspect the splines, replace the seal, check circlip and reinstall.
 
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