Searched around did a bunch of research. Haven't found a definitive choice.

Will be a street car, quick and dirty details are
2.4 gcs block
Cp pistons
Eagle crank

2150cc injectors / Dual Wally 450

Pte 6766

Power level is unknown at this point as I will be limited by my fuel choices, im over building for 1200 and the turbo I have should get me to 950awhp ish

Motor is a 6 bolt, which limits choices. To my knowledge Howard, Boostline, Many H tuff, Oliver only offer 7 bolt.

Which I found leaves me with

Eagle Extremes - Most interested in at the moment (stm claims 1200hp capable) and fairly light at 575g
Manley I beams - Heavy - 695g
Carillo Pro A Beam - Another option that peaked my interest - 516g
Pauter X beam - Seem to only come with arp 2000 --> Which makes me question the capability of them. 685g


Im leary on jumping into an aluminum rod, due to fatigue and life expectancy but options seem to be

R&R - 500g
Groden -


Please only add input if you have experience or can add something helpful, im not set on H, I, Etc or material. Just want to find the best choice for this set up.

Very poor choice on the bore size. You need to stick with a 2.0 if you think you want any serious power.

2150’s and a 450 will not get you there. Not even on gasoline.

The turbo definitely will not get you there. Especially in a T3 footprint.

Choosing an H beam for 1000whp is also an incorrect choice.

I have made your desired horsepower with Manley I beams. I have also done it with Pauter X beams. The weight of the rod is not something you need to be concerned with. Big, nasty steel rods will be dense and strong. Thus heavy.

With that said, I would still pick Aluminum rods 10/10 times over any steel rod for a true, and actual 1000whp. The Manleys and Pauters will get you there and last a while. They will be hard on rod bearings however.

Aluminums do have a life cycle. If you try to pretend this is a street car, your mileage may very. If it is a race car, you need to be in there enough it’s life cycle shouldn’t matter.

I prefer GRP. No matter what if that is the route you go, you need a full, solid beam. No pocketed or slimmed rod. You will not enjoy the outcome.

If you are looking at steel, Pauter is your choice. Made in America. Excellent customer service. They just made me a custom set for my 3800. And I have run them in a personal 4g63 project. Call the manufacturers directly you are considering. That should narrow down right away shoe you want making your parts. I buy everything direct. Not through third party vendors. The third party does not have your best interest at heart as it isn’t their name on the box.

biglady112 said:

Very poor choice on the bore size. You need to stick with a 2.0 if you think you want any serious power.

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Interesting since, a lot of big power evo builds are 2.3 or 2.4, what's your reasoning behind your opinion?

biglady112 said:

2150’s and a 450 will not get you there. Not even on gasoline.

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Injectors are at there max point for the goals I agree, the dual pump set up will not

biglady112 said:

The turbo definitely will not get you there. Especially in a T3 footprint.

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Its a Twin scroll T4, Red demon put down high 9XX with the same turbo with smaller cams and a few less quality parts then I have on my car, this was around (2012ish from what I remember)

biglady112 said:

Choosing an H beam for 1000whp is also an incorrect choice.

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Please explain

biglady112 said:

I have made your desired horsepower with Manley I beams. I have also done it with Pauter X beams. The weight of the rod is not something you need to be concerned with. Big, nasty steel rods will be dense and strong. Thus heavy.

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Weight kills bearing and puts wear and stress on other components... so please explain your thoughts

biglady112 said:

With that said, I would still pick Aluminum rods 10/10 times over any steel rod for a true, and actual 1000whp. The Manleys and Pauters will get you there and last a while. They will be hard on rod bearings however.

Aluminums do have a life cycle. If you try to pretend this is a street car, your mileage may very. If it is a race car, you need to be in there enough it’s life cycle shouldn’t matter.

I prefer GRP. No matter what if that is the route you go, you need a full, solid beam. No pocketed or slimmed rod. You will not enjoy the outcome.

If you are looking at steel, Pauter is your choice. Made in America. Excellent customer service. They just made me a custom set for my 3800. And I have run them in a personal 4g63 project. Call the manufacturers directly you are considering. That should narrow down right away shoe you want making your parts. I buy everything direct. Not through third party vendors. The third party does not have your best interest at heart as it isn’t their name on the box.

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What type of lifecycle is to be expected from a set of aluminum rods? From what I understand at high hp levels its a trade off on rod life (Alum) vs bearing life (steel)

The Car will most likely regularly make high 700's but like I mentioned in the first post I have no idea what kind of power I can get by with on the fuel we have available at the pumps combined with my meth injecton. The higher number will be only for when its on E or race fuel (1000)

Thanks for your response

Alot of 2.4's at that power level will crack blocks. It happens alot and so many racers well in the 1000+ range do it and its a problem due to the thin walls! Plus they rev it high also which dont help.

2.0LR or even 2.2 LR would hold the power better.

Modern H beams can hold the power like the carrillos can llus they can take alot of force pulling apart and you can upgrade to their super strong hardware! Those are rated to 1300 hp and a few racers i know use them and sit about 1000-1200hp.

Other rods i think will work and not mega heavy are oliver rods. Proven to be strong and take alot of stress.

For an average of 700hp any of these rods will be more then enough for you.

Editing as i now see its a 6 bolt! I missed that part while reading or skimming over first thing so i dont remember who does what for 6 bolts anymore. So my choices are likely not helpful sorry

If you have to ask questions about how to make 4 digit hp, you have no business trying to build 4 digit hp.

EC17PSE said:

Alot of 2.4's at that power level will crack blocks. It happens alot and so many racers well in the 1000+ range do it and its a problem due to the thin walls! Plus they rev it high also which dont help.

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I cams across talks of that, specific to which block castings? Gcs or the spider 4g

Genuinely interested

and yeah I've come to terms with a lower rpm band with the bore, it's the trade off.

EC17PSE said:

2.0LR or even 2.2 LR would hold the power better.

Modern H beams can hold the power like the carrillos can llus they can take alot of force pulling apart and you can upgrade to their super strong hardware! Those are rated to 1300 hp and a few racers i know use them and sit about 1000-1200hp.

Click to expand...

yeah the 625 hardware really improves any rods capabilities, aluminum seem to avoid this by the weight diffence combined with the ability to absorb shock.

EC17PSE said:

Other rods i think will work and not mega heavy are oliver rods. Proven to be strong and take alot of stress.

For an average of 700hp any of these rods will be more then enough for you

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Unfortunately I can only find Oliver's in 7 bolt

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated

ist dwa said:

If you have to ask questions about how to make 4 digit hp, you have no business trying to build 4 digit hp.

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I'd thank you for your input, but you don't seem to have the experience or expertise.

Ohh well

schafer240 said:

I cams across talks of that, specific to which block castings? Gcs or the spider 4g

Genuinely interested

and yeah I've come to terms with a lower rpm band with the bore, it's the trade off.


yeah the 625 hardware really improves any rods capabilities, aluminum seem to avoid this by the weight diffence combined with the ability to absorb shock.

Unfortunately I can only find Oliver's in 7 bolt

Thanks for the input, it's appreciated

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Most here use the galant 2.4 blocks so likely very similar to the spyder blocks. I cannot say exactly as 2.4 has alterations over countrys and platforms but should be fairly close enough, all will still hold thin walls though. Thicker walls are always ideal but then depending on the build they want torque which is understandable but then limits the rest so a middle ground is needed and thats why the 2.0 block configerations work well for strength, not as much torque but midway and should be more then enough if paired well with the correct turbo and cam setup to spool early enough.

Onnthe Carrillo rods you got carr bolts which are a great bolt for rods but only those get them as its cp/carrillos making so they ditched arp's because they wanted better. Pretty much unlimited useage while checking for stretch and if ok then all is good to keep using.

Being a 6 bolt you are limited. So either a custom crank to take 7 bolt rods or i think carrillo do 6 bolt rods but in H beam as their I beams are based for NA use, H beams are turbo and race applications

schafer240 said:

Interesting since, a lot of big power evo builds are 2.3 or 2.4, what's your reasoning behind your opinion?




Injectors are at there max point for the goals I agree, the dual pump set up will not



Its a Twin scroll T4, Red demon put down high 9XX with the same turbo with smaller cams and a few less quality parts then I have on my car, this was around (2012ish from what I remember)



Please explain


Weight kills bearing and puts wear and stress on other components... so please explain your thoughts


What type of lifecycle is to be expected from a set of aluminum rods? From what I understand at high hp levels its a trade off on rod life (Alum) vs bearing life (steel)

The Car will most likely regularly make high 700's but like I mentioned in the first post I have no idea what kind of power I can get by with on the fuel we have available at the pumps combined with my meth injecton. The higher number will be only for when its on E or race fuel (1000)

Thanks for your response

Click to expand...

87mm bore blocks will eventually crack and will always have head gasket issues.

100mm cranks in a 2.0L block break the crankshafts far to often and make terrible power at high rpm for me to put my name on one.

A 67mm small shaft turbo is not a 900whp on a 4G63. Plain and simple. Sure, maybe if you are racing a Dyno and find the most favorable one. I do my racing on the track.

A lot of abuse with a heavy rod will put the stress right into the bearing. It will do fine but, it is not a set it and forget it. There is no number on how long an aluminum rod will last. Every combination will vary. It is also not a set it and forget it as they will eventually fail. Wether that is 15 pulls, or 1,500 pulls. You just never know and better be prepared for what comes with that kind of motor.

I damn sure you never put an A beam in a turbo four cylinder application. A beams are the lowest of strength out there. High rpm/naturally aspirated is where they shine.

We regularly made 1200+ with a stock 6 bolt crank, r&r aluminum rods, and Diamond pistons, in a stock 6-bolt block 3/4 filled.

Trying to make big power with a stock 2.4 block is a waste. If you want more displacement run a 2.2 in a tall deck billet block.

We cracked 86mm bores so we started running 85.25mm bores and mostly filling the block. After that, zero issues.