Is better to describe exactly what you already did so you won't get answers with the same things and also to see if you did it correctly

If you didn't bench bleed the master cylinder do that.

If it's still not working, try a vacuum bleeder or try reverse bleeding it

-With the bleeder closed remove the slave cylinder from transmission
-Remove boot and rod from slave cylinder
-Press the clutch while someone watches the slave and stop when the piston gets to the end of the bore
-Tip the slave cylinder so the clutch line is at the highest point and then force the piston back in. (Have someone watch for bubbles coming out at the master cylinder)
-Repeat until no bubbles come out at the reservoir after a couple times

I remember it was a pain to bleed my system the manual way. Then I bought a basic vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and made short work of it. I would recommend starting there. And keep in mind the stock pressure plate isn't very stiff so the pedal won't feel too much. Best way to tell when it's bled is SMOOTH pedal operation and watch the slave rod extend whilst the pedal is pressed fully

If your master cylinder isn't coming forward until the clutch pedal has slack then it wont feed brake fluid through, also its alot of bleeding so just keep going. I did my master cylinder on my corvette recently and it drank probably half a gallon of brake fluid, I kept having to recycle the same bottle through the system going back and forth bleeding and topping off again but it worked after 3 hours

mikellinos said:

Is better to describe exactly what you already did so you won't get answers with the same things and also to see if you did it correctly

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I’m working jt by my self everyones to busy to help me out so it’s just me and a large stick that pushed the clutch down when the clutch is pushed down I open. The bleeder valve close it let go of the clutch and repeat for 30min till no more bubbles came out but that’s the slave cylinder on the clutch master I took the lid off bjt I noticed (when I push the clutch down the The reservoir fluid doesn’t go up like there’s no vacum in pressing it down

DrewmHolland said:

If your master cylinder isn't coming forward until the clutch pedal has slack then it wont feed brake fluid through, also its alot of bleeding so just keep going. I did my master cylinder on my corvette recently and it drank probably half a gallon of brake fluid, I kept having to recycle the same bottle through the system going back and forth bleeding and topping off again but it worked after 3 hours

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i found a forum that throughly explained it and was it a PAINNNN took me 3 days cuz I was doing. It wrong

BLACK'98DSM said:

I remember it was a pain to bleed my system the manual way. Then I bought a basic vacuum bleeder from Harbor Freight and made short work of it. I would recommend starting there. And keep in mind the stock pressure plate isn't very stiff so the pedal won't feel too much. Best way to tell when it's bled is SMOOTH pedal operation and watch the slave rod extend whilst the pedal is pressed fully

Click to expand...

Kevin-eclipse-rs said:

Recently replaced my clutch master cylinder (98 2g Manual RS) because it was leaking and the gears where getting stuck (still went into gear just had to wiggle it),

I was going to replace that adjust the clutch and see if the gears would go in smoothly if they do then good. (my problem is that iv been trying to bleed this cylinder for 2 days iv tried everything and when I get no more bubbles.

I still get no pressure please help thank you

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I figured it out thank you for everything shifts so smooth feels faster tooI wish it was faster