The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

2G XTD STAGE 4 DUAL FRICTION CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL KIT FOR 2G

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Sniffbooger

Proven Member
315
139
Apr 12, 2020
San Diego, California
I'm ready to buy a new clutch for my rebuilt engine install in a few weeks....I've been researching the XTD clutches and most of the threads are 10 years old...many good reviews about the stage 4 unsprung 6 puck clutch kit, but no reviews at all with the new dual friction sprung clutch kit...anyone tried it yet? It seems to be a good street friendly clutch, heavy duty and reinforced rivets, easy driveability, and holds 450 hp...seems the best of both worlds...anyone bought one of these??

I had an XTD style clutch in my stock '95 Honda Civic hatchback and it was fine, but I have no references for a higher hp turbo DSM...

A few details about your setup and whp would be good thanks!
 
I bought a 6 puck with springs because I read things about the unsprung damaging the splines on the trans input shaft. I found an xtd stage 4 "2300lbs" pressure plate on ebay to go with it. (Wasn't sure if the stage 4 pp had a heavier clamp load or not, but wanted it just in case)

3200lb gvr4
Mhi16g
E85
All the boost
Fmic
Exhaust
Basically stock engine

Highly streetable. Had some chatter at first but it went away quickly. I have about 6k miles on it and it slipped for the first time a few weeks ago while doing a 1/8mile pull. Since I've done some tuning changes,, sometimes it will slip on a 3rd gear pull sometimes not. I think the disc is fine I just need a heavier clamp load.

I don't really want the act 2600 pressure plate pedal stiffness and the 2100 pp is supposedly the same as oem, so I'm currently looking into southbend clutches.
 
I am specifically referring to the new 'DUAL FRICTION' XTD stage 4 disc and pressure plate/flywheel combo. It has different design on both sides of the disc.
This is what the new dual sided disc looks like:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That disc will have less holding capacity than a puck disc. I imagine it would be super streetable tho. Any way you slice it, I don't recommend their pressure plates. Rumor has it that they have less clamping pressure than oem, and with my results/super light pedal feel, I believe it.
 
I used to run xtd stuff, but back in 2012ish. The old stage 4 pressure plates were actually 2300lbs. A good oem mitssu 1g stock one is about 2200. I've been told repeatedly that they are supposed to be 1700lbs, but I've tested and they were 2200. I tested ACT2600's and 2900's and they were right on, so I'd suggest my tests are valid. An act2100 was only 2000 on my test.

back in the day the xtd discs had different friction pucks depending on what you were using. The solid hub ones held better than the sprung ones. The sprung ones would slip if they got any heat in them at all. The soild ones however I think would hold over 500 ft*lbs with a stage 4 plate. It held whatever my car made with a HE351 tuned all the way up to the best of my ability back then.

After that I started to run ACT stuff. 2600 and 4 puck a lot. Worked well.

Recently I put an old (2011) XTD stage 4 pressure plate in my car with a act 6 puck solid disc and the dogbox. Suprisingly that held over 30psi on my setup which is 550 ft*lbs. The car went low 10's at 143mph with that clutch in it. It's 2950ish lbs.

I just bought a new xtd stage 4 plate to try. It's not the same as the old stuff. IDK how it will be.

Lastly those dual friction discs are lame. All the problems of a street disc and a puck disc, and none of the benefits.

I'd go for a solid hub street disc, or a solid hub 4 puck.
 
I used to run xtd stuff, but back in 2012ish. The old stage 4 pressure plates were actually 2300lbs. A good oem mitssu 1g stock one is about 2200. I've been told repeatedly that they are supposed to be 1700lbs, but I've tested and they were 2200. I tested ACT2600's and 2900's and they were right on, so I'd suggest my tests are valid. An act2100 was only 2000 on my test.

back in the day the xtd discs had different friction pucks depending on what you were using. The solid hub ones held better than the sprung ones. The sprung ones would slip if they got any heat in them at all. The soild ones however I think would hold over 500 ft*lbs with a stage 4 plate. It held whatever my car made with a HE351 tuned all the way up to the best of my ability back then.

After that I started to run ACT stuff. 2600 and 4 puck a lot. Worked well.

Recently I put an old (2011) XTD stage 4 pressure plate in my car with a act 6 puck solid disc and the dogbox. Suprisingly that held over 30psi on my setup which is 550 ft*lbs. The car went low 10's at 143mph with that clutch in it. It's 2950ish lbs.

I just bought a new xtd stage 4 plate to try. It's not the same as the old stuff. IDK how it will be.

Lastly those dual friction discs are lame. All the problems of a street disc and a puck disc, and none of the benefits.

I'd go for a solid hub street disc, or a solid hub 4 puck.

Nice input! Do you think the newer XTD Stage 4 pressure plate as shown in my photo above, is not the same as the older ones from 2011? Do you have any reason to believe the quality has gone downhill, or clamping pressure has decreased in the newer pressure plates?

IF I were to purchase a new XTD Stage 4 unsprung disc and pressure plate/flywheel combo, do you think it will be difficult to drive daily to work and back?? I've read a lot on the older threads about these, and they seem to be very decent quality, but some people have difficulty getting enough travel with their stock clutch pedal to disengage the clutch...and some have said its tricky to shift it, and its harder on the CV joints, splines, motor mounts, etc...but I won't be drag racing, and I won't be doing any hole shots at the drag strip or anywhere else...so does it really matter? I just want to avoid having to take stuff out a week after installing it...don't have a place to work on cars except in the side streets in a busy neighborhood...
 
I have not used a XTD in a few years. The last one i came across 5+ years ago was a 6 puck sprung i think and the car ripped the rivets out on the clutch disc on launch. Myself love the act 2600/ puck. Have been using these clutches for years.
 
Anyone ever used one of these clutch kits??? From ClutchMax or Bahnhof? They say 'Made in USA'...with 1 year/15k mile warranty....if you have any experience with them please feel free to post. Opinions are welcome too!

A few years ago, I put a Banhof stage 2 sprung clutch and pressure plate in my 1995 Civic Ex with a stock flywheel and it worked fine. It had a little more solid feel to the clutch pedal than the stock clutch setup. It was dirt cheap and worked great but I didn't have more than 120 hp so its a little different with a modded GST...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Hmmmm...ok, I just purchased the Clutch MAX (6 puck) sprung disc as pictured above...I may re-use my current HD pressure plate or possible get a new XTD Stage 4 pressure plate as you did...I don't think I'll use the white Clutch Max pressure plate due to all the complaints that it doesn't hold clamping force very well...
 
how is the clutch max holding up? (sorry for the thread resurrection)
I haven't installed it yet...I'm having a head gasket issue...probably gonna swap the motor and do the clutch at the same time.
 
Side note but related

I ran a dual friction clutch in my 98 camaro with a built ls1 and built t56 trans, it was not a good clutch

The metal side of the clutch eventually got so heated it warped the disc, it also had really chatty engagement pattern. It really burnt my flywheel because of the uneven engagement of the clutch friction material. This was maybe 8k miles and zero hard launches (I had a stock rear end and didnt want to blow it up)

If you look at the metal side, you can see where the friction of the warp would hit, you can see the metal of the face has contact points, and the center of the clutch was doing more work because the edges had warped

The manufacturer sent me a new clutch as a replacement under warranty (this is a well known t56 clutch vendor) but advised me the characteristics of the dual friction clutch will have more chatter than a regular clutch. I ended up selling the new warranty clutch for $100 as a spare for some one who needed it, I would never run one again from the terrible engagement it always had

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Side note but related

I ran a dual friction clutch in my 98 camaro with a built ls1 and built t56 trans, it was not a good clutch

The metal side of the clutch eventually got so heated it warped the disc, it also had really chatty engagement pattern. It really burnt my flywheel because of the uneven engagement of the clutch friction material. This was maybe 8k miles and zero hard launches (I had a stock rear end and didnt want to blow it up)

If you look at the metal side, you can see where the friction of the warp would hit, you can see the metal of the face has contact points, and the center of the clutch was doing more work because the edges had warped

The manufacturer sent me a new clutch as a replacement under warranty (this is a well known t56 clutch vendor) but advised me the characteristics of the dual friction clutch will have more chatter than a regular clutch. I ended up selling the new warranty clutch for $100 as a spare for some one who needed it, I would never run one again from the terrible engagement it always had

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
WOW! That looks terrible! I'm glad I opted for the 6 puck sprung disc instead...when technology is combined together for a 'best of both worlds' type of scenario, sometimes both things become lesser when combined together. Kinda like marriage. The end result is worse than before when they were single LOL...
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top