Cfrakes said:

I have a 97 Mitsubishi Eclipse and i have a few wiring problems.

First is the OBD2 port which the previous owner cut the wires to. I rewired it and I couldn't get any power to the scanner. Is there a fuse or something else I should check?

Second is i have power windows and there is not power to the power locks and windows. I still have power to the front speakers if that matters. someone told me it might be a relay if anyone knows the location that would be awesome.

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Cfrakes said:

Lastly I have wiring bridging from the MAP sensor wiring that connects to a knob that goes from 0 to max and it leads to the air temp sensor on the intake anyone know what it could be? Thanks

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A way to fool the ECU about how much air you're getting, perhaps.

Check the power locks fuse by the clutch pedal fuse box. It controls obd2 power

Cfrakes said:

Second is i have power windows and there is not power to the power locks and windows. I still have power to the front speakers if that matters. someone told me it might be a relay if anyone knows the location that would be awesome.

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First check the 30A "power windows" fuse in the engine compartment. If ok then check the power windows relay high up under the drivers side dash shown here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/power-window-operation-without-key-for-2g.274267/. In this pic it has been replaced by the red jumper wire.

luv2rallye said:

First check the 30A "power windows" fuse in the engine compartment. If ok then check the power windows relay high up under the drivers side dash shown here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/power-window-operation-without-key-for-2g.274267/. In this pic it has been replaced by the red jumper wire.

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So I went ahead and replaced both of those and still nothing from both windows. If the drivers switch module was broken would that cause the passenger side to not work as well maybe?

This car also had a security/remote start module all connected when I bought it I don't know if that matters cause windows and locks didn't work with it installed either. Any ideas help. thanks

Cfrakes said:

So I went ahead and replaced both of those and still nothing from both windows. If the drivers switch module was broken would that cause the passenger side to not work as well maybe?

This car also had a security/remote start module all connected when I bought it I don't know if that matters cause windows and locks didn't work with it installed either. Any ideas help. thanks

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I also tried disconnecting the lock relay that sits behind the radio and when you plug the connector back in you can hear the locks moving so they do have power but I still can't lock or unlock.

Throwing new parts at it by guessing is a sure way to deplete your bank account and get no where. So you say windows and locks have never worked since you got the car and it has an aftermarket security/remote start module? These are notoriously connected wrong since every car is different (so no directions work for them all). However it would be a good place to start by completely un-connecting it changing the wiring back to factory (also did it come with the factory security alarm, yes or no?). If that doesn't work you'll have to get the wiring diagrams and start testing voltages in the window/door lock system.

Cfrakes said:

If the drivers switch module was broken would that cause the passenger side to not work as well maybe?

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It can. BTW you don't have on the drivers door the "lock out passenger window operation" button pressed do you?

luv2rallye said:

Throwing new parts at it by guessing is a sure way to deplete your bank account and get no where. So you say windows and locks have never worked since you got the car and it has an aftermarket security/remote start module? These are notoriously connected wrong since every car is different (so no directions work for them all). However it would be a good place to start by completely un-connecting it changing the wiring back to factory (did it come with the factory security alarm, yes or no?). If that doesn't work you'll have to get the wiring diagrams and start testing voltages in the window/door lock system.

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I already completely disconnected the module out of the car and got it all back to factory. And the lock out passenger button is not on. Also I was testing voltages and I found a connection that led to the power mirror switch and other wires leading to what I'm assuming is the lock relay I tested to see if I got any sort of power from there and I did when the car had the keys in so I'm assuming that's the right connection but even with power in that connection I didn't have power at the window switch itself in any of the pins

You can download the power windows wiring diagram (on p.228) from here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-1997-1999-dsm-electrical-factory-service-manual.517369/.

The manual also has the power door locks wiring (p. 208-221).

I'd recommend first making sure the power window relay is providing power. One easy way is to replace it with the jumper as I show in post 4. If windows then don't work make sure +12v is on the jumper (the jumper should provide power all the time whether ignition key is on or not). If it doesn't, the 30A power window fuse in the engine bay is blown.

luv2rallye said:

You can download the power windows wiring diagram (on p.228) from here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-1997-1999-dsm-electrical-factory-service-manual.517369/.

The manual also has the power door locks wiring (p. 208-221).

I'd recommend first making sure the power window relay is providing power. One easy way is to replace it with the jumper as I show in post 4. If windows then don't work make sure +12v is on the jumper (the jumper should provide power all the time whether ignition key is on or not). If it doesn't, the 30A power window fuse in the engine bay is blown.

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Alright so I went through it today and the wires leading to the relay do provide power but the relay itself does not click on even though it's a brand new relay and I also tried another relay from the car that I know works and nothing. Anything I can do about that besides just replacing it with the jumper like the pic you shared? Thanks

That relay is turned on by part of the ETACS-ECU [which normally is way to expensive to replace (unless you can find a working used one, and is extremely hard to get at) but it doesn't usually ever go bad anyway]. However if the windows don't work when you replace that relay with the jumper, then your problem is elsewhere (not the relay). So do they work with the jumper?

If the windows work with the jumper:
There is 10A "Room Lamp" fuse in engine bay which if blown powers the ETACS-ECU and can be your problem (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1...-fuse-draining-battery.424216/#post-152856627). Another fuse that powers the ETACS-ECU is the 10A "Gauge" fuse in drivers kick panel box. {Note you should always check all fuses before starting diagnosing anything anyway.}

luv2rallye said:

That relay is turned on by part of the ETACS-ECU [which normally is way to expensive to replace (unless you can find a working used one, and is extremely hard to get at) but it doesn't usually ever go bad anyway]. However if the windows don't work when you replace that relay with the jumper, then your problem is elsewhere (not the relay). So do they work with the jumper?

If the windows work with the jumper:
There is 10A "Room Lamp" fuse in engine bay which if blown powers the ETACS-ECU and can be your problem (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1...-fuse-draining-battery.424216/#post-152856627). Another fuse that powers the ETACS-ECU is the 10A "Gauge" fuse in drivers kick panel box. {Note you should always check all fuses before starting diagnosing anything anyway.}

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What does the ETACS ECU control? I don't have power to the OBD2, the floor light only works once in a while my rear defrost doesn't work and I don't believe there's any noises at all for when the door is open and lastly the horn doesn't work. I wouldn't be surprised if it is bad just because of the previous dudes aftermarket security system. Also I went and checked the room lamp fuse which was out but I replaced it and there was no change. It may have been out due to us taking a power probe to the wires. Also I have a 1999 Eclipse RS sitting on the backyard but it does not have power windows would I still be able to take that one's ETACS out and put it in my 97 RS?

I've had to replace capacitors in the 3S ETACS that are of like vintage so it wouldn't surprise me to see issues with the 2G DSM ones.

Section 4 (Body) of the 2G Technical Manual talks about the power locks and windows. and section 7 (Equipment) discusses ETACS. Here's a summary.
These all manuals are found using the link in my first post.

steve said:

I've had to replace capacitors in the 3S ETACS that are of like vintage so it wouldn't surprise me to see issues with the 2G DSM ones.

Section 4 (Body) of the 2G Technical Manual talks about the power locks and windows. and section 7 (Equipment) discusses ETACS. Here's a summary.
These all manuals are found using the link in my first post.

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Do you happen to know how hard they are to replace? Cause if all it requires is unbolting the fuse box with the 2 bolts holding it and replacing the parts I'll try putting in my other Eclipse ETAC and see if that solves the issue

I don't have a 2G so I suggest you check the manual.

Cfrakes said:

What does the ETACS ECU control? I don't have power to the OBD2, the floor light only works once in a while my rear defrost doesn't work and I don't believe there's any noises at all for when the door is open and lastly the horn doesn't work. I wouldn't be surprised if it is bad just because of the previous dudes aftermarket security system. Also I went and checked the room lamp fuse which was out but I replaced it and there was no change. It may have been out due to us taking a power probe to the wires. Also I have a 1999 Eclipse RS sitting on the backyard but it does not have power windows would I still be able to take that one's ETACS out and put it in my 97 RS?

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The ETACS-ECU is involved in control of some of that stuff but not the horn. See 2g Tech Manual p. 7-17 to 7-29 for ETACS-ECU description.

However there are other things that are much more likely the problem (eg. dirty door open switches, defogger relay, many other fuses you probably haven't tested). The OBD2 connector power is only supplied by the 10A "Door Lock" fuse of the inside fuse box.

The ETACS-ECU connects to the back of the inside fusebox and will be a big job with all the huge wire harness connectors you'll have to remove while you're upside down under the dash. I've never removed it and won't be jealous. Don't forget to disconnect the battery.

I'm just concerned the problem is elsewhere (which it usually has been for what you describe) and you may be replacing the ETACS-ECU for nothing.

Congrats on fixing the ETACS.

For the horn I recommend first testing the 15A "Horn" fuse in engine fusebox. Then unplugging horn (in front of LF wheel) and putting 12V battery power right on it to see if it works. Then make sure the horn's black wire has good connection to ground. Then checking horn relay, then horn switch, finally clock spring.