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2G Car still won’t start

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98gstJames

Proven Member
215
41
May 25, 2022
WInchester, Virginia
Alright so I’ve been trying to get my car to start and I’ve done a lot, what does it sound like my car is missing now? I’ll add a video, I’m just lost

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On a 1g tb, the plate does sit at a slight angle. I assume the same applies to 2g. When you had the tb off, did you inspect the fiav? I found this yesterday on mine. Fiav adjustment doohicky backed out causing high cold start, about 2500rpms.

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Sorry if you already covered what I'm about to say, long thread.

Based on pics check coupler of TB elbow looks like it slid? FPR looked liked you had a tee in it that should be by itself. Check your PTU for broken wires. Have you tested your MAF? Are all grounds connected properly? Ie: unpainted surfaces?

Your first start up sounded like timing is off, might explain compression #'s. Shortly after I skipped to my reply, sorry

Also this isn't the original engine? Is it a 95-96 that originally had the CAS behind cam gear?
 
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Check the stopper that the throttle plate hits. It’s on the bottom. 1 1/4 turn after making contact with the throttle plate.

Then adjust throttle cable

Turn the biss screw the whole way in. Then back it out 2 1/4 turns.

Re adjust tps since you messed with SAS.

Did you ever do a proper boost leak test? This doesn’t mean tell me that you replaced a bunch of gaskets either and looked at things and said looks good.

-Daniel

Yes I did a boost leak test, put 15psi to the car and I have a small leak coming from my FIAV gasket on my tb I’m almost certain the soapy water also showed the BISS screw leaking a little bit as well. I got both a new gasket and BISS screw coming, but I’ve adjusted my stopper plate to make sure it wasn’t too far in and adjusted how you said to, I did the BISS screw that way, but it made my idle way too high so I had to turn it all the way in. The car still idles at 2k rpm’s for the most part, so I’m not sure if it’s the two small leaks on the tb causing it or what.

When I have the MAF unplugged it idles at the right rpms, it’s just when I plug the MAF in it does the high idle, but drives perfectly.

Sorry if you already covered what I'm about to say, long thread.

Based on pics check coupler of TB elbow looks like it slid? FPR looked liked you had a tee in it that should be by itself. Check your PTU for broken wires. Have you tested your MAF? Are all grounds connected properly? Ie: unpainted surfaces?

Your first start up sounded like timing is off, might explain compression #'s. Shortly after I skipped to my reply, sorry

I’ve replaced the MAF, also the FPR line that has the tee was like that when I got the car so I wasn’t sure what to do with it. What should I tee off to get my AFR? It’s teed between the FPR and the intake and my couplers are all tight and in correct position.

Yes all grounds are correct, that was one of the first things I did when I got the car was the electrical side of it, first startup was when I had a blown hg, I haven’t posted a video recently of it running.

On a 1g tb, the plate does sit at a slight angle. I assume the same applies to 2g. When you had the tb off, did you inspect the fiav? I found this yesterday on mine. Fiav adjustment doohicky backed out causing high cold start, about 2500rpms.

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I’m not 100% sure but it definitely was sitting too far in. I adjusted the throttle drop plate and that helped the butterfly stay closed more, and I did not inspect the FIAV when I had the tb off but I did a leak test and found a leak in there so I’m replacing the gasket.

Are you showing the marks on the plate? What happened?

Also this isn't the original engine? Is it a 95-96 that originally had the cas behind cam gear?

I’m not 100% sure but I’ve been thinking it’s off of a 95-96 because they had the CPS that sits under the cams. Could be an earlier head but I know they stopped doing that after 96.
 
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I’m not 100% sure but I’ve been thinking it’s off of a 95-96 because they had the CPS that sits under the cams. Could be an earlier head but I know they stopped doing that after 96.

That's what it looked like to me. Thought the firing order was 3-2-4-1 with that swap, plus check that the wiring was done correctly to use that cam sensor.
 
Yes I did a boost leak test, put 15psi to the car and I have a small leak coming from my fiav gasket on my tb I’m almost certain, the soapy water also showed the biss screw leaking a little bit as well, I got both a new gasket and biss screw coming, but I’ve adjusted my stopper plate to make sure it wasn’t too far in and adjusted how you said to and then I did the biss screw that way but it made my idle way too high so I had to turn it all the way in, the car still idles at 2k rpm’s for the most part so I’m not sure if it’s the two small leaks on the tb causing it or what but when I have the maf unplugged it idles at the right rpms, it’s just when I plug the maf in it does the high idle, but drives perfectly.


Did you re adjust the tps after setting the SAS on the throttle body?

-Daniel
 
Did you re adjust the tps after setting the SAS on the throttle body?

-Daniel
The tps is sitting all the way one way I can’t remember which way but if I turn it won’t it make the car idle higher? I was messing with it one day and when I moved it the butterfly started opening so I put but back where it was so the butterfly wouldn’t sit any farther in than it was, or does it work differently?
 
So what exactly does it do?
If the butterfly moves when you move the TPS, then the TPS is installed improperly, in that case the TPS is not working as it should. The butterfly won't move at all as Steve said if it's installed properly.
I would check the base ignition timing by using a timing light in case if you haven't done it.
You ignored about this but I would still say the same. I would try this anyways.
Take a look at the post #4 in the link below.
 
So what exactly does it do?

The throttle shaft moves and it turns the TPS. Throttle Position Sensor feeds the ECU the current position and on a 2G also tells the ECU when the throttle is closed which causes the ECU to emulate a dashpot, cut off fuel on deceleration, and manage the idle speed.
 
The throttle shaft moves and it turns the TPS.

So should I turn it when the car is running and what for a good idle? Or how should I adjust it?

If the butterfly moves when you move the TPS, then the TPS is installed improperly, in that case the TPS is not working as it should. The butterfly won't move at all as Steve said if it's installed properly.

You ignored about this but I would still say the same. I would try this anyways.
Take a look at the post #4 in the link below.

I didn’t ignore I just had more issues to address on my car first.

Also I don’t have a timing light so I’d have to get one, I’m not sure how to retard the timing since what you’re saying is my car is too advanced. My VW bug did the same thing when I first got it and I fiddled with the distributor and carb to get the perfect idle, but with this I’m not sure how to do it.

I wanted to get a bad coolant leak I had from the thermostat housing gasket fixed first before I messed with the idle more.
 
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We have strayed way off the original post. Can we please start a new thread. Makes it easier for others to find info for future searches
 
Maybe a Wiseman could give me some insight, my understanding there's only so many options when using a 95-96 engine in a 98. Since he's got a 1g cam sensor, they spliced into the harness for cas ect.. so no matter if the coil said 4123 you'd have to swap wires to the correct firing order?
 
Since he's got a 1g cam sensor, they spliced into the harness for cas ect.. so no matter if the coil said 4123 you'd have to swap wires to the correct firing order?

98 ECU with 1G CAS, why would you swap wires?

You do so when you have a 2Gb and a 95 ECU or a 2Ga with a 6 bolt swap but I don't think you need to in this case. The 1G CAS should be close to what a 2Gb Cam Angle Sensor puts out.

I don't think we explored if the Crank signal is coming from 1 2g CKP or the 1G CAS but that's secondary here.
 
98 ECU with 1G CAS, why would you swap wires?

You do so when you have a 2Gb and a 95 ECU or a 2Ga with a 6 bolt swap but I don't think you need to in this case. The 1G CAS should be close to what a 2Gb Cam Angle Sensor puts out.

I don't thing we explored if the Crank signal is coming from 1 2g CKP or the 1G CAS but that's secondary here.
Thank you Steve for your response. I guess it'd depend on what ecu he's using as well. It sounded like it was a timing/ firing order, issue. I remember reading a right up when I had issues with my 98 swap.
 
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