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Proprietary Denaturant Package 5 - 15%
Ok they aren't going to tell us what's in it besides ethanol LOL

The 68% you are measuring on your pump E85, that sounds about right for "winter blend" E85 in cold states. Hopefully your "summer blend" will be more like E85. I asked my one E85 station here, which is about a 1 hour drive from me now, if they know whether their deliveries are winter or summer blend, and they said no!
as I’m adding this stuff I’ll be adjusting the global a few times, but there’s a rock solid calculation formula on ecmtuning that nails it

Are you going to do it that way instead of using the "AuxMaps" page in DSMlink?

my DSMlink ethanol flex fuel compensation in ECU config 'Aux Maps'  screen shot.PNG
 
Are you going to do it that way instead of using the "AuxMaps" page in DSMlink?

Oh I see. You are probably talking about how to reset your global so it would be correct for E0, when you are converting to a flex fuel tune from a non-flex fuel E85 tune, like they show at the bottom of the Ethanol Sensor Support Page?
 
Hey guys, hope all is well and Happy Holidays! This isn’t a “Cool” update, just what I’m currently up to with the car. I’ve got these last 2 weeks of the year off so I figured I’d finally get to something I’ve been putting off for years now LOL..
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Fixing this stupid pedal assembly LOL, WTF Mitsubishi LOL, I’m curious was ANY other car in HISTORY engineered with a pedal assembly this retarded? I’m guilty of ignoring this problem for 600 miles on a $3,000 transmission, so if I’ve incurred damage from my dragging clutch it is what it is I guess. Anyways today I just wanted to get a good start, got the steering column down, and tomorrow I’ll start un bolting the pedal assembly, I plan to replace the infamous plastic bushing with the bronze bushing and weld this thing so I hopefully never have to pull it again, I’m excited to hopefully one day be the proud owner of a 1g that DOES’NT have a dragging clutch LOL
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Hey guys, hope all is well and Happy Holidays! This isn’t a “Cool” update, just what I’m currently up to with the car. I’ve got these last 2 weeks of the year off so I figured I’d finally get to something I’ve been putting off for years now LOL..View attachment 682995Fixing this stupid pedal assembly LOL, WTF Mitsubishi LOL, I’m curious was ANY other car in HISTORY engineered with a pedal assembly this retarded? I’m guilty of ignoring this problem for 600 miles on a $3,000 transmission, so if I’ve incurred damage from my dragging clutch it is what it is I guess. Anyways today I just wanted to get a good start, got the steering column down, and tomorrow I’ll start un bolting the pedal assembly, I plan to replace the infamous plastic bushing with the bronze bushing and weld this thing so I hopefully never have to pull it again, I’m excited to hopefully one day be the proud owner of a 1g that DOES’NT have a dragging clutch LOLView attachment 682996
I just pulled that last weekend from my car finally, and it was literally the last piece to come out from the interior aside from stuff like the headliner. I was thinking damn, this thing is a bi$&h with everything out of the way! I even let the clutch spring back and sandwich my finger trying to remove it. Ouch! I totally get why people who try and do it with the interior intact express their displeasure! :cool: Looking forward to seeing the upgrade as I need a reminder of how to do it. Wish I had two weeks off, have fun!
 
Hey guys, hope all is well and Happy Holidays! This isn’t a “Cool” update, just what I’m currently up to with the car. I’ve got these last 2 weeks of the year off so I figured I’d finally get to something I’ve been putting off for years now LOL..View attachment 682995Fixing this stupid pedal assembly LOL, WTF Mitsubishi LOL, I’m curious was ANY other car in HISTORY engineered with a pedal assembly this retarded? I’m guilty of ignoring this problem for 600 miles on a $3,000 transmission, so if I’ve incurred damage from my dragging clutch it is what it is I guess. Anyways today I just wanted to get a good start, got the steering column down, and tomorrow I’ll start un bolting the pedal assembly, I plan to replace the infamous plastic bushing with the bronze bushing and weld this thing so I hopefully never have to pull it again, I’m excited to hopefully one day be the proud owner of a 1g that DOES’NT have a dragging clutch LOLView attachment 682996
Getting to those pedals really sucks. I was thinking of replacing the entire assembly with a Wilwood pedal setup. The Tilton kit is cooler looking but way more pricey. Would have been bad ass.
 
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Holy $h!t LOL what a PITA LOL, not really tho, I’ve taken my time, finally got this sucker out, time for a rebuild and some welding so it NEVER has to come out again.
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I’ll go ahead and clean up the booster while it’s out, just waiting on the bronze bushing to show up, might also address the slop around the clevis at the other end of the z bar, I’m gonna take my time with this as I’m sick of the incurable clutch drag.
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What are you welding? Sorry for the noob question but I thought the dragging clutch was just a matter of adjustment with the pedal and the slave and that the bushings were part of the shifter assembly?

This looks like a pain!
 
The plastic bushings are part of the assembly like you say, but no amount of clutch adjustment/bleeding would cure my clutch drag. Like most 1g’s my pedal was worn out. For example when I would attempt to adjust the master rod, while on my back looking up under the dash, I could press my clutch pedal a solid inch or more before it would begin to move the master rod, even knowing this I still put 600 miles on my new set up like this when I should’ve addressed it when the whole car was apart, shame on me LOL. Now as far as the the welding goes, I’m going off YouTube videos and old threads on here that show the most common spot to weld is the nut on the end of the shaft that the z bar attaches too. I’ll say that I have very little movement and wear at that end but I’m still gonna weld it anyway. The WORST spot on my assembly is the clevis pin hole that attaches to the clutch master rod.
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You can see how wollard out the hole is. That 3/8” pin was like a hot dog in a hallway LOL. I’ve got a new 1/2” pin on the way to address that, anyways I’m hoping for the best, I’d love to be able to shift at 8 grand without worry some day, In the meantime I also just got my aem 5 map sensor I’ll be installing this weekend along with switching over to a 3 port boost solenoid, and hopefully getting the new headliner on soon so I can hit the dyno.
 
I was watching a Larry Chen video about a 2JZ engine swap into a Toyota GR86, and I almost started screaming at the screen when they showed where the clutch master cylinder is, inboard of the brake master cylinder. The guy who did the build said "the GR86 is 'unique' in using a rod-and-lever system under the dash that takes the pedal motion to the master cylinder" at that inboard location. Oh no! Toyota? 🤪
 
Yeah I’d be willing to bet that was responsible for the majority of the slop, hope to get this thing welded up and back in the car in a couple weeks and post up the results:thumb:
 
as far as the the welding goes, I’m going off YouTube videos and old threads on here that show the most common spot to weld is the nut on the end of the shaft that the z bar attaches too.

Yes, I think the best pic of a proper weld job is by Brando_DSM but you might have never seen it because he for some reason didn't put it at the end of his thread that he started in 2018 about making bronze bushings. There are other good pics in the thread but the grande finale shot is not there!
Here it is:

clutch lever - where people weld the lever that bolts onto the end of the clutch pedal shaft ...jpeg
 
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