C-note89ky said:

Bet the excitement is building now.. how long has it been now? Almost a year?

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Yeah about that long. I am definitely looking forward to driving it for sure.

Unpacked the turbo. Man cleaned the coolant and oil bits and included all new gaskets.
At the bottom is the old cartridge.

It’s brand new. Looks awesome Jeff!!

AWD-Tony said:

It’s brand new. Looks awesome Jeff!!

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Thank you Tony! Had to work extra over the weekend hopefully I can get some of it done tonight.

Take your time. No rush. You’ll be up and running in no time.

Exciting! Looks like Justin definitely lives up to his reputation.

Dericsh said:

Exciting! Looks like Justin definitely lives up to his reputation.

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Yeah he really does. I surely recommend him.

Coolant fittings in and majority of turbo parts attached. Need to clean the manifold thoroughly before dropping the completed turbo unit in. I find it very easy to drop the whole thing bolted up in one piece. Need to change the oil before doing a start. Need some gas too the tank is a little low for comfort.

Got a couple light scuffs putting it in and taking it out for dial placement of the compressor housing
The 90 on the turbo used to rub the cradle wheel under it finally am able to adjust it to fix the issue it now has 2"s of clearance.

Turned the fog lamp bezel into an air duct that routes to the air filter area

Just hooked up the trickle charger and what do ya know the battery is toast
Thinking of trying Interstate battery since I have had a bad experience with optima on several occasions. Could go with a basic duralast, my last one took almost 10 years to crap out on my daily... I've seen Odysse batteries too but i haven't tried one of those either.

Agm batteries work differently. I've had problems with a standard charger. Make sure it's compatible.

Just finished the first drive in over a year. Running into a bit of a misfire issue though. I might have a bad resistor pack. I meant to get a different one last year i just completely forgot about the issue.

Feel like that’s the life cycle of a Dsm.
Bug emerges
Try to find the bug
Another issue pops up
Fix that
Back to step 1

AWD-Tony said:

Feel like that’s the life cycle of a Dsm.
Bug emerges
Try to find the bug
Another issue pops up
Fix that
Back to step 1

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Thats the truth. Not sure which two cylinders are intermittently falling off. Trying to follow instructions on testing these things with a voltameter not having much luck.

Does it misfire at idle too? Any codes?

Sometimes at idle. What gave away the transistor thing was the drop in rpm when the engine didn't change in rev. Push the gas around 3k rev and it drops to 1.5k. From what I understand the signal cut in haft points to the transistor

When it happens at idle, start pulling the wires for each cylinder. This will tell you where the issue is. If nothing changes in a certain cylinder, start there. Swap plugs first and see if it follows. Then change injectors and see if that follows. This will help with diagnosing fuel or spark.

Currently trying to find out if i have a power transistor wire issue in the plug not the transistor itself. Starting to think there is a bad wire on the harness end but not sure which pins to touch to find continuity... Plugs, wires, and coils all passed ohm tests. Guess I'll find out if it was just the transistor when i get the new one in the mail but i have suspicions about the connector having issues.

What’s going on with the connector? Do the terminals look corroded? Or fit loose?

With the resistor plugged in, check voltage at each of the black wire on each injector plug. Key on, take your multimeter one lead to ground and other lead to each black wire one at a time. They should all be the same voltage. If you suspect wiring/connector issue, wiggle the wires while checking w MM.

Dericsh said:

What’s going on with the connector? Do the terminals look corroded? Or fit loose?

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No just want to test it to make sure, about 90% sure its the component. I cleaned the old transistor and it actually started misfiring more often. Maybe i shouldn't have used a copper brush

AWD-Tony said:

With the resistor plugged in, check voltage at each of the black wire on each injector plug. Key on, take your multimeter one lead to ground and other lead to each black wire one at a time. They should all be the same voltage. If you suspect wiring/connector issue, wiggle the wires while checking w MM.

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Right on brother i appreciate the detail. I have seen a lot of posts on the transistors about them commonly failing. Not sure of thats true for all. Hope the ECU nore the harness is to blame for spark failure. It drops 2 cylinders periodically and every time under 30% plus throttle. When it does the tach signal drops the rev display by 50%. Knock count is zero so i can count that for sure. Can't seem to get the car fully streetable
But I will just have to keep at it i suppose

Figured I'd post an update the new ignition transistor came in. Car ran fine for a bit and then it started to fall apart at idle. Pulled the plugs and the gap was messed up on 2 of them and they were all fouled from running rich and misfired i believe. The gap on 2 of them was .19 not quite sure how i missed that. But I'm going to let the engine cool over night and put a new set in. Fingers crossed I think this will be the ticket for sure. Need to do a blt for good measure.

Thought i would buy something simple to install to sort of celebrate the car back on the road. My old knob didn't fit the interior to me so i picked up a 1.5lb stainless knob.