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Spyder Currently Stuck & Maybe some Misinformation

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FalpenHost

Probationary Member
25
3
Jun 10, 2022
Wellford, South_Carolina
Hey guys. I’m sorry if this is not posted in the right section. I’m still new to posting on here.

I currently have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. The mileage is 140k-ish. Has the 4g63t 7-bolt Engine, also has the 16g turbo. Just to give some background on the car.

I currently can not get the car to fire. I have been thru the “How To Diagnose a No-Start” thread and tried to look around for an issue that is similar to mine.
So I’ve been over 4 out of the 5 things that can cause a no-start and I’ll go over the 5th within the week. The results are as follows:
Air: I personally replaced all the components that have to do with getting air to the engine. Including the intake, intercooler piping, and all pipes up to the throttle body gooseneck. I know there is no blockage.
Spark: I pulled all 4 plugs, held them to the valve cover and all 4 spark fine. A friend told me that I need to gap the plugs. They are the NGK plugs that I believe come pre-gapped. I have not checked.
Fuel: I replaced the fuel pump. I checked the fuel filter and no clogs. Checked fuel to the fuel rail and no issues. All 4 injectors are spraying. My only concern with fuel is the FPR. The normal “gas in the vacuum line.” Checked that as well. No fuel in the vacuum, but after pulling the return line and starting the car no fuel came from there either. Also trying to start the car with the FPR removed no gas pours out. Which I’m unsure if it should.
Timing: I checked timing. Everything lines up correctly.
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Compression: This is the last thing to check.


Edit: So after getting Air, and timing off the list. The last things would be Fuel, Compression, and rechecking the spark.

I’ve been told it could be the ECU, so I found an eprom 95 GSX ECU for a good price. It did not fix my issue.

Some questions I have and maybe some miscommunication that I can get cleared up.

The crankshaft sensor. I’ve repeatedly been told it may be the issue, but I’ve also been told that if it were bad I would have no spark.
I was also advised to flip the Cam sensor 180* which I did. Would it make that much of an issue if I don’t flip it back?

I realize I haven’t listed what is going on in detail. The car will turn over but will not start. I’ll put a video on here as well if what’s going on. When sprayed with starting fluid the car starts for a second then dies. Hitting the gas does not change the duration of how long it runs.

Also should mention the parts I’ve replaced. New starter, battery, alternator, ECU, all vacuum lines (full emission delete), all water lines, brake booster vacuum line with the valve, new oil filter, timing belt, serpentine belts, all lines for the 16g are new, braided lines from slave cylinder to master cylinder.

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This is a video of it starting on starting fluid. The hissing sound is from too much starting fluid and it’s pushing out the gooseneck.
Yes it has gas. Yes I am pushing the clutch.

I am aware that it’s hard to diagnose a car that won’t start because it could be literally anything. I’m really looking for suggestions on what to do next and see if anyone has any idea. I’ll try everything that’s commented and update this as I try it. I appreciate the help a ton guys.

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Last edited:
Maybe there's a hidden kill/safety switch somewhere? And it might be good to check the harmonic balancer. I don't think that's been mentioned yet.
I was thinking the same thing about the kill switch. I know there is one on the clutch. Tried to unplug it but it’s a pain in the ass so I just left it.

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Harmonic balancer is all good.
 
It is attached. I bought an aftermarket one and a Check valve. So I replaced the line from the brake booster.

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The car in the picture was a buddy of mine sending me reference to firing order. That car is not mine. This is the only picture I have of the motor fully assembled.


Yeah. It has one right up at the firewall. I will try to run power to it with the return hose off and see if I see any fuel that way. Thank you for the tip.


Uh so the motor isn't fully assembled and youre trying to get it to fire?

Have you checked compression?

How dis assembled is the motor?
 
Starts/ runs on starting fluid and not without makes it seem like fuel delivery issue. I had hard starting when I first bought my car and it was bad cts. Not saying that’s necessarily your issue, but running on starting fluid should indicate that air/spark/timing/compression can’t be too out of whack.
 
Starts/ runs on starting fluid and not without makes it seem like fuel delivery issue. I had hard starting when I first bought my car and it was bad cts. Not saying that’s necessarily your issue, but running on starting fluid should indicate that air/spark/timing/compression can’t be too out of whack.
So from the information I received. The advice I’ve been given recently is that
1) Fuel injectors are not pulsating correctly
2) Fuel pressure
2) Bottom end is out of time. I posted a picture and have more with everything lined up. I can’t find the crankshaft timing mark.

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Supplementing Paul's post.

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So where is the mark on the crankshaft itself? I see the notch behind it that you’ve marked. Not seeing the actual mark on the crankshaft.
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Is it the white mark at the bottom?
 
The plate is keyed to the crank so it is acting as a direct extension of the crankshaft itself, so long as the key and keyslots on both the crankshaft and the plate are in good condition.
 
The plate is keyed to the crank so it is acting as a direct extension of the crankshaft itself, so long as the key and keyslots on both the crankshaft and the plate are in good condition.
Okay. I got it. So timing isn’t my issue.

At this point I’m just going to go back over everything in the “How To Diagnose a No-Start” guide and recheck it in order. I appreciate the help guys and all the info I’ve gotten.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You mean "Refer to post #6" ROFL
 
Are any lights on the dash flashing when you are cranking?
The normal lights. CEL comes on and turns off on both ECU’s.

Its been mentioned but I will say again to confirm that your ecu coolant temp sensor is working or replace it.
Funny story. While trying to move things around this sensor head actually got ripped off. I did replace the actual sensor head. Have no replaced the actual sensor.
 
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