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Spyder Currently Stuck & Maybe some Misinformation

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FalpenHost

Probationary Member
25
3
Jun 10, 2022
Wellford, South_Carolina
Hey guys. I’m sorry if this is not posted in the right section. I’m still new to posting on here.

I currently have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. The mileage is 140k-ish. Has the 4g63t 7-bolt Engine, also has the 16g turbo. Just to give some background on the car.

I currently can not get the car to fire. I have been thru the “How To Diagnose a No-Start” thread and tried to look around for an issue that is similar to mine.
So I’ve been over 4 out of the 5 things that can cause a no-start and I’ll go over the 5th within the week. The results are as follows:
Air: I personally replaced all the components that have to do with getting air to the engine. Including the intake, intercooler piping, and all pipes up to the throttle body gooseneck. I know there is no blockage.
Spark: I pulled all 4 plugs, held them to the valve cover and all 4 spark fine. A friend told me that I need to gap the plugs. They are the NGK plugs that I believe come pre-gapped. I have not checked.
Fuel: I replaced the fuel pump. I checked the fuel filter and no clogs. Checked fuel to the fuel rail and no issues. All 4 injectors are spraying. My only concern with fuel is the FPR. The normal “gas in the vacuum line.” Checked that as well. No fuel in the vacuum, but after pulling the return line and starting the car no fuel came from there either. Also trying to start the car with the FPR removed no gas pours out. Which I’m unsure if it should.
Timing: I checked timing. Everything lines up correctly.
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Compression: This is the last thing to check.


Edit: So after getting Air, and timing off the list. The last things would be Fuel, Compression, and rechecking the spark.

I’ve been told it could be the ECU, so I found an eprom 95 GSX ECU for a good price. It did not fix my issue.

Some questions I have and maybe some miscommunication that I can get cleared up.

The crankshaft sensor. I’ve repeatedly been told it may be the issue, but I’ve also been told that if it were bad I would have no spark.
I was also advised to flip the Cam sensor 180* which I did. Would it make that much of an issue if I don’t flip it back?

I realize I haven’t listed what is going on in detail. The car will turn over but will not start. I’ll put a video on here as well if what’s going on. When sprayed with starting fluid the car starts for a second then dies. Hitting the gas does not change the duration of how long it runs.

Also should mention the parts I’ve replaced. New starter, battery, alternator, ECU, all vacuum lines (full emission delete), all water lines, brake booster vacuum line with the valve, new oil filter, timing belt, serpentine belts, all lines for the 16g are new, braided lines from slave cylinder to master cylinder.

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This is a video of it starting on starting fluid. The hissing sound is from too much starting fluid and it’s pushing out the gooseneck.
Yes it has gas. Yes I am pushing the clutch.

I am aware that it’s hard to diagnose a car that won’t start because it could be literally anything. I’m really looking for suggestions on what to do next and see if anyone has any idea. I’ll try everything that’s commented and update this as I try it. I appreciate the help a ton guys.

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There is a fuel pump check connector in the engine bay. Apply 12v from the battery and see if you get fuel at the return line. If you do try starting the car with it connected. If it starts then you need to back trace why you're not getting power to the pump.
 
Once the rest of the parts as above are checked and if ok then check the ignition module right next to the coilpacks. Make sure all connectors are seated correctly and on the right ones and trial a few units if needed to see if that still happens
 
How do you know it has gas? Your post suggests otherwise. If you pulled return line and got no fuel, fuel pump or the circuit is not working.
I pulled the line off the rail and tried to start it. Gas came out. Then pulled the injectors and all 4 sprayed. So gas is getting to the injectors. But that is correct, when I pulled the return line off the fpr no gas came out. I know it sounds contradicting but it’s just what I’ve saw. Maybe I’m not getting enough gas for it to come out.

By the “yes it has gas. Yes I’m hitting the clutch.” I meant yes there is gas in the car.
 
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CTS?
 
There is a fuel pump check connector in the engine bay. Apply 12v from the battery and see if you get fuel at the return line. If you do try starting the car with it connected. If it starts then you need to back trace why you're not getting power to the pump.
When I replaced the fuel pump I ran power to the pump to make sure it was engaging. It is turning on when trying to start the car, but I thought it was suppose to come on with the key in the “on” position.
Edit: I misread your post. I will definitely try using the plug to the fuel pump under the hood. Didn’t even realize that was how that worked. I appreciate it and I’ll update on what happens.
 
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Once the rest of the parts as above are checked and if ok then check the ignition module right next to the coilpacks. Make sure all connectors are seated correctly and on the right ones and trial a few units if needed to see if that still happens
Will definitely look at this. Thank you

If your running a 95 ecu did you switch the firing order?
I did. After some debate on what the right order should be. I was finally told that this is the correct order.

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I thought it was suppose to come on with the key in the “on” position.

The fuel pump doesn't prime when you turn the key on, only when you're cranking and once it's running.

DSMLink (perhaps in your future) has an option that will allow you to prime the pump but most cars shouldn't need it. The fuel system should pressurize quickly.
 
You have it setup as a 97 right now.
No. Currently it’s on the 95 ECU with the firing order in the picture above. It was on the 97 ECU but it was doing the same thing so I just swapped them. Everytime I try something I swap the ECU from either/or and try it again just to make sure that it isn’t an ECU issue.

The fuel pump doesn't prime when you turn the key on, only when you're cranking and once it's running.

DSMLink (perhaps in your future) has an option that will allow you to prime the pump but most cars shouldn't need it. The fuel system should pressurize quickly.
Okay. Thank you. That cleared that up. I was unsure but it is functioning properly then. When trying to start the car gas comes out of the fuel line going to the fuel rail.
 
Awd to fwd ECUs make no difference minus the speed limiter. Auto to manual have slight difference with injector fueling but won’t be enough to not start. Are you pulling the fuel return line or the vacuum line off the fpr? What style cas are you running 2ga or 2gb?

-Daniel
 
You most certainly should be seeing fuel come out of the fuel return line while the fuel pump is on.

I pulled mine off while the car was running to drain out 3 year old gas till it dribbled.

Try to wire the pump with the check connector and see if it will eventually open and allow fuel to drain back to the tank. My 99’s don’t have a check connector not sure about the 97 though. I’d you don’t have ecmlink to turn on the pump you can hot wire it.

- Daniel
 
Is the brake booster hose attached to the back of the intake manifold?
It is attached. I bought an aftermarket one and a Check valve. So I replaced the line from the brake booster.
Is the brake booster hose attached to the back of the intake manifold?

Can i get an overhead picture of the engine bay, you have alot of pieces unhooked in the photo you attached
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The car in the picture was a buddy of mine sending me reference to firing order. That car is not mine. This is the only picture I have of the motor fully assembled.

My 99’s don’t have a check connector not sure about the 97 though. I’d you don’t have ecmlink to turn on the pump you can hot wire it.
Yeah. It has one right up at the firewall. I will try to run power to it with the return hose off and see if I see any fuel that way. Thank you for the tip.
 
Yeah. It has one right up at the firewall. I will try to run power to it with the return hose off and see if I see any fuel that way. Thank you for the tip.
Is the connector blue? I can’t remember what that’s for right now but you don’t want the blue one I think it’s black if you have one.

-Daniel
 
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