FalpenHost
Probationary Member
- 25
- 3
- Jun 10, 2022
-
Wellford,
South_Carolina
Hey guys. I’m sorry if this is not posted in the right section. I’m still new to posting on here.
I currently have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. The mileage is 140k-ish. Has the 4g63t 7-bolt Engine, also has the 16g turbo. Just to give some background on the car.
I currently can not get the car to fire. I have been thru the “How To Diagnose a No-Start” thread and tried to look around for an issue that is similar to mine.
So I’ve been over 4 out of the 5 things that can cause a no-start and I’ll go over the 5th within the week. The results are as follows:
Air: I personally replaced all the components that have to do with getting air to the engine. Including the intake, intercooler piping, and all pipes up to the throttle body gooseneck. I know there is no blockage.
Spark: I pulled all 4 plugs, held them to the valve cover and all 4 spark fine. A friend told me that I need to gap the plugs. They are the NGK plugs that I believe come pre-gapped. I have not checked.
Fuel: I replaced the fuel pump. I checked the fuel filter and no clogs. Checked fuel to the fuel rail and no issues. All 4 injectors are spraying. My only concern with fuel is the FPR. The normal “gas in the vacuum line.” Checked that as well. No fuel in the vacuum, but after pulling the return line and starting the car no fuel came from there either. Also trying to start the car with the FPR removed no gas pours out. Which I’m unsure if it should.
Timing: I checked timing. Everything lines up correctly.
Compression: This is the last thing to check.
Edit: So after getting Air, and timing off the list. The last things would be Fuel, Compression, and rechecking the spark.
I’ve been told it could be the ECU, so I found an eprom 95 GSX ECU for a good price. It did not fix my issue.
Some questions I have and maybe some miscommunication that I can get cleared up.
The crankshaft sensor. I’ve repeatedly been told it may be the issue, but I’ve also been told that if it were bad I would have no spark.
I was also advised to flip the Cam sensor 180* which I did. Would it make that much of an issue if I don’t flip it back?
I realize I haven’t listed what is going on in detail. The car will turn over but will not start. I’ll put a video on here as well if what’s going on. When sprayed with starting fluid the car starts for a second then dies. Hitting the gas does not change the duration of how long it runs.
Also should mention the parts I’ve replaced. New starter, battery, alternator, ECU, all vacuum lines (full emission delete), all water lines, brake booster vacuum line with the valve, new oil filter, timing belt, serpentine belts, all lines for the 16g are new, braided lines from slave cylinder to master cylinder.
This is a video of it starting on starting fluid. The hissing sound is from too much starting fluid and it’s pushing out the gooseneck.
Yes it has gas. Yes I am pushing the clutch.
I am aware that it’s hard to diagnose a car that won’t start because it could be literally anything. I’m really looking for suggestions on what to do next and see if anyone has any idea. I’ll try everything that’s commented and update this as I try it. I appreciate the help a ton guys.
I currently have a 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GS-T. The mileage is 140k-ish. Has the 4g63t 7-bolt Engine, also has the 16g turbo. Just to give some background on the car.
I currently can not get the car to fire. I have been thru the “How To Diagnose a No-Start” thread and tried to look around for an issue that is similar to mine.
So I’ve been over 4 out of the 5 things that can cause a no-start and I’ll go over the 5th within the week. The results are as follows:
Air: I personally replaced all the components that have to do with getting air to the engine. Including the intake, intercooler piping, and all pipes up to the throttle body gooseneck. I know there is no blockage.
Spark: I pulled all 4 plugs, held them to the valve cover and all 4 spark fine. A friend told me that I need to gap the plugs. They are the NGK plugs that I believe come pre-gapped. I have not checked.
Fuel: I replaced the fuel pump. I checked the fuel filter and no clogs. Checked fuel to the fuel rail and no issues. All 4 injectors are spraying. My only concern with fuel is the FPR. The normal “gas in the vacuum line.” Checked that as well. No fuel in the vacuum, but after pulling the return line and starting the car no fuel came from there either. Also trying to start the car with the FPR removed no gas pours out. Which I’m unsure if it should.
Timing: I checked timing. Everything lines up correctly.
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Compression: This is the last thing to check.
Edit: So after getting Air, and timing off the list. The last things would be Fuel, Compression, and rechecking the spark.
I’ve been told it could be the ECU, so I found an eprom 95 GSX ECU for a good price. It did not fix my issue.
Some questions I have and maybe some miscommunication that I can get cleared up.
The crankshaft sensor. I’ve repeatedly been told it may be the issue, but I’ve also been told that if it were bad I would have no spark.
I was also advised to flip the Cam sensor 180* which I did. Would it make that much of an issue if I don’t flip it back?
I realize I haven’t listed what is going on in detail. The car will turn over but will not start. I’ll put a video on here as well if what’s going on. When sprayed with starting fluid the car starts for a second then dies. Hitting the gas does not change the duration of how long it runs.
Also should mention the parts I’ve replaced. New starter, battery, alternator, ECU, all vacuum lines (full emission delete), all water lines, brake booster vacuum line with the valve, new oil filter, timing belt, serpentine belts, all lines for the 16g are new, braided lines from slave cylinder to master cylinder.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
This is a video of it starting on starting fluid. The hissing sound is from too much starting fluid and it’s pushing out the gooseneck.
Yes it has gas. Yes I am pushing the clutch.
I am aware that it’s hard to diagnose a car that won’t start because it could be literally anything. I’m really looking for suggestions on what to do next and see if anyone has any idea. I’ll try everything that’s commented and update this as I try it. I appreciate the help a ton guys.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Last edited: