August578
Proven Member
- 100
- 23
- Jun 15, 2021
-
Eastvale,
California
This is the Build Thread for 1998 Eclipse Spyder 4g64T. Reply below.
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Hey August578, your build is pretty much the same thing I'm trying to do. Same model and year Spyder and same 97 GST ECU. Your tip on the Chevy swivelling thermostat housing was perfect. I've compared my GSX harness with the 4g64 harness. As best as I can tell, all I need is the knock sensor and the wastergate actuator solenoid. Did you do any other wiring mods to get the ECU to work? Can you tell me what fuel injectors you're running? ThanksThis is the Build Thread for 1998 Eclipse Spyder 4g64T. Reply below.
Thanks! I've wired in the knock sensor and done the fuel relay bypass. Going to do the injectors and give it a try. Did you put in a boost gauge?Besides wiring in the knock sensor you do have to by pass a fuel module for the spyder. It’s really simple and here is the link for the write up. But other than that it’s basically plug and play.
You don’t need the wastegate solenoid sensor to make it work. It just leaves an annoying CEL. I’m not sure on how to implement it so I kind of just live with it. You might be able to turn it off if you have ECM link but I havent gotten my hands on one to try. But from my experience besides the cel the car works fine.
For injectors, since I live in California and the emergency of a state ref or whatever reason I need to revert, also for a simple drop in an no wiring. I used 450cc High impedance. You can use the stock 450cc from the turbo but you have to have the resistor and wire it in which is a lil annoying.The 63 uses low impedance injectors.64 uses high imp. There are other performance websites that sell high impedance I think for a little cheaper. But these are the ones I bought.
Denso 450cc, 42lbs/hr, Import Fit
<style>#html-body [data-pb-style=T478C70]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll}</style><div data-content-type="row" data-appearance="contained"...www.fiveomotorsport.com
Also a great but old guide was this website. I’m not sure if you found this prior but it def set me in the right direction. Also 95% of the write ups derive from this website.
http://web.archive.org/web/20050303225759/http://www.4g64.150m.com/performance.html
Def recommend digging around on this site if you have any doubts.
Just in case you wanted to get rid of that CEL, this is what I did. It seems to work. Wire in a wastegate solenoid and run the red-yellow wire on pin 1 to pin 11 on the ECU. Then tap the red wire on the MAF for the red wire on pin 2 of the wastegate solenoid. I confirmed the wiring using the circuit diagram and on my spare 4g63t harness.Besides wiring in the knock sensor you do have to by pass a fuel module for the spyder. It’s really simple and here is the link for the write up. But other than that it’s basically plug and play.
You don’t need the wastegate solenoid sensor to make it work. It just leaves an annoying CEL. I’m not sure on how to implement it so I kind of just live with it. You might be able to turn it off if you have ECM link but I havent gotten my hands on one to try. But from my experience besides the cel the car works fine.
For injectors, since I live in California and the emergency of a state ref or whatever reason I need to revert, also for a simple drop in an no wiring. I used 450cc High impedance. You can use the stock 450cc from the turbo but you have to have the resistor and wire it in which is a lil annoying.The 63 uses low impedance injectors.64 uses high imp. There are other performance websites that sell high impedance I think for a little cheaper. But these are the ones I bought.
Denso 450cc, 42lbs/hr, Import Fit
<style>#html-body [data-pb-style=T478C70]{justify-content:flex-start;display:flex;flex-direction:column;background-position:left top;background-size:cover;background-repeat:no-repeat;background-attachment:scroll}</style><div data-content-type="row" data-appearance="contained"...www.fiveomotorsport.com
Also a great but old guide was this website. I’m not sure if you found this prior but it def set me in the right direction. Also 95% of the write ups derive from this website.
http://web.archive.org/web/20050303225759/http://www.4g64.150m.com/performance.html
Def recommend digging around on this site if you have any doubts.
I took a look at 63 water pipe. Don't think it will fit. I'll try the T off the heater lines ideaOr if you really want to it's a 50/50 but the 63 water pipe may fit or not it has the coolant lines Someone told me it may fit but I'm not sure since I never tried it. From what I remember the 63 head has a different thermostat location from the 64 so it's a gamble.
When I turboed my spyder GS way back when, I t'd into the coolant lines for the throttle body. Later on I ended up ditching the water cooling for the turbo all together. Never had any issuesI took a look at 63 water pipe. Don't think it will fit. I'll try the T off the heater lines idea
Thank you! I'm almost doneThere is a port on the stock intake I used. I forgot exactly what line it was and what it does but its this one right here. It something for egr I think. I could be wrong. It was a tight fit I used a lot of WD40 and grease to get it on but it works well. I say that because I think only certain years of the 4g64 on the intake mani have this weird flared nipple. Ive seen other ones where its not flared.
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Here's my build so far: https://www.dsmtuners.com/dsm-profiles/1998-eclipse-awd-4g64t-spyder-gs.16392/No problem, but you gotta post pics of the finished build. Sounds like its going really well!