brandynw93
Probationary Member
- 9
- 1
- Jun 27, 2021
-
Los Angeles,
California
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Just filled out a profile for the car.I can't say if the AEM WB is bad but your log looks like the tune is off.
If you assume that the WB is correct ATM it would seem that your very lean at idle and the fuel trim has maxed out without getting the O2 to switch like it should. Since you don't have a narrowband O2 to compare with there isn't much to compare with/to. What is your gauge reading at idle?
Please fill out a profile for this car.
Did I miss the mention of injectors in your profile?
Was it fine before and this just started happening? Has the car been tuned?
Car is on E-85. I will have to try the rag test.Car is on pump gas? Besides the fuel trims, AFRest and wbfactor being off, I don't really see anything that stands out. I would test the WB sensor by removing it, wrapping it with a rag soaked in brake clean and making sure it reads rich. Remove the rag and it should read full lean. Do this a few times, then calibrate the WB. If you still have an issue, I'd start looking into the fuel system. Could be clogged/sticking injector, clogged fuel filter, leak at fuel pump, check fpr.
As for low impedance injectors, I would disagree with your tuner. Many people still run them without a problem.
You should be logging MAFraw & battery. Under MAF Comp and Misc, uncheck "disable airflow smoothing w sd operation".
Do you have an old tune you can post that includes idle time?
Fuel system seems to be fine, I'm getting the right pressure at the FPR, fuel filter is brand new, and swapped fuel pump.Pump could also whine from blockage. I recommend going through your entire fuel system. It seems to me that’s your issue. When you remove the pump, check to see if anything is slimy as ethanol can cause this.
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Just the cluster lights flicker? Are headlights and other lights doing the same thing? When you let off throttle, the injectors momentarily turn off via the idle switch (believe it's under 1,500 rpms) thus going full lean for a second or two. This is normal.Fuel system seems to be fine, I'm getting the right pressure at the FPR, fuel filter is brand new, and swapped fuel pump.
Did the brake clean and rag test on my WB sensor and it checks out fine. It goes full rich and full lean.
The alternator is new and the battery is reading good voltage when car is off and on. Although, while idling, when I press on the gas to rev it the cluster lights flicker quite a lot. When the revs come back down the AFR's drop down pretty lean "18-20" and then gradually rise back up.
Battery voltage also drops from 14.2 to around 13.8-13.9 when reving as well. I'm guessing something is robbing power?
yeah, cluster lights flicker a lot while headlights might flicker very little.Just the cluster lights flicker? Are headlights and other lights doing the same thing? When you let off throttle, the injectors momentarily turn off via the idle switch (believe it's under 1,500 rpms) thus going full lean for a second or two. This is normal.
What's the voltage when lights flicker? Does it still flicker when you slightly raise rpms?yeah, cluster lights flicker a lot while headlights might flicker very little.
yes, I get what you're saying with the injectors, but this is a bit different as it goes lean after letting of throttle and it stays lean. Rpms bog down for a while and it slowly will balance out a bit but most times only to 16-17ish afr.