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What did you do to your DSM today?

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Not my dsm but I finally tracked down and fixed the boost control problem on the edge. Back to 12’s and 0-60 in the 4’s(on 93oct).


But my god this thing needs an intercooler upgrade ASAP. Hitting any kind of boost puts IATs in the 120+ degree range. Gotta love Florida. :p
 
I did nothing to my DSM today...!

Its sitting on the street, being constantly ticketed by the parking enforcement and street sweepers... :( :idontknow:

It needs a head gasket replaced, and rings are worn, and turbo seals are shot... :( OMG

I will be replacing the motor soon! I have it almost ready to go...I'll be changing back to a good stock rebuild 7 bolt motor, and for backup I'll be building a '99 GSX split washer 7 bolt motor into a powerhouse...probably a 2.3 stroker....with 272 cams and forged pistons/rods etc...
 
I went back to the city, lurking for the "Honda Kid" n my auto car but no luck :cool:
 
Officially started the process of removing rotted quarter panal and outer rockers .. my skills will be put to the test on this one . Using donor car panels so its extra fun
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Finally got my clutch pedal assembly out, disassembled, and ready for a new clutch lever from RTM Racing.

Put a new diaphragm in my FPR and replaced the thread compound to prevent future leaks.
Turbo is sent out for a full rebuild.

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You really can say, "Too many mods to list."
 
Nothin but started her.
Tore down a small block Chevy for a roller cam rebuild to go into a Ford Crown Vic Ex-Poilce car and tear up some ass! (But not DSMs ROFL ,definatly not MINE).
Probably a 13 second car build for a friend.

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Car was down for 5 years until like 6 years ago and since then have always wondered why my car shifts so shitty compared to my wife's Prelude and i just accepted it. Finally took it apart today while on vacation and realized that all the shifter mods under the hood and in the interior... i mustve done to my previous Eclipse...cause all these bushings are still stock... :mad:
 
How do you plan on actuating it? I adore the cyclone IM.
It still has the vacuum actuator attached since my entire long block is from a GVR4 Evolution, though I do not yet know if it is still functional. I have a bunch of vac canisters I raided from various junked Neons, my factory solenoids, and link.
 
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Just some projects while im on vacation this week...

Have had some double stitched material sitting in the basement for a couple of years now. Found it relatively cheap on Ebay even with the shipping from Ireland. Finally got around to doing my headliner with some 3m adhesive....

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Got some GSX calipers to replace these single piston, stock GST ones and decided to try something other than red. Pretty good for now but I have my doubts about how well the Orange Metalcast is going to hold up. Only drive on weekends when its not snowing or raining, so might be able to keep them looking good for a while.

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Putting that Cyclone manifold on with the engine still in the bay on a 2g is one of the most irritating things I have ever done. You have to have arms like Gumby not to wind up with bruises the next day..
Nevertheless, it's done and the actuator holds vacuum.

Officially started the process of removing rotted quarter panal and outer rockers .. my skills will be put to the test on this one . Using donor car panels so its extra fun
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Holy crap you ARE still around. Good to see you still have it
 
Took the first drive after buttoning everything back up and all i have to say about the cyclone manifold is.. wow I am thus far disappointed.
I am sure I have some tweaks to do but low and midrange feels somehow worse and the top end is now flat and unappealing. Not only that but I had to add what I would consider major fuel alat and above 3500 in all positive pressures, to the tune of about 4%.
*scratches head* I will have to see if the solenoid is even actuating but even if it weren't, that wouldn't explain a worse low end when the butterflies are normally closed.
 
Got around to swapping the rear and front seats so extensive cleaning and scrubbing was had. Come to find out d-side seat bracket is broke on the seat going in ao back out it comes to get swapped with the old one. Aligned the headlights and fog lights after putting new leds in all of them. Also got 2 new keys made since the OE was about worn out.
 
Validated that the FP solenoid is opening the butterflies on command.
Did another run around with the Cyclone and tweaked some things and, boy, I didn't expect this much change on VE for that sweet spot before the flappers open (3000-4000rpm)
Makes a certain amount of sense, though. A faster intake charge would clear out the cylinders quicker on any overlap too. It's starting to feel a bit more worthwhile. Definitely starts spooling a bit sooner too, the 8" long 4" filter makes that quite audible.
I still don't feel anything close to a 50hp difference, though, but my fuel needs between 2500 and 4000 rpm above 9psi has jumped about 7%.
 
Validated that the FP solenoid is opening the butterflies on command.
Did another run around with the Cyclone and tweaked some things and, boy, I didn't expect this much change on VE for that sweet spot before the flappers open (3000-4000rpm)
Makes a certain amount of sense, though. A faster intake charge would clear out the cylinders quicker on any overlap too. It's starting to feel a bit more worthwhile. Definitely starts spooling a bit sooner too, the 8" long 4" filter makes that quite audible.
I still don't feel anything close to a 50hp difference, though, but my fuel needs between 2500 and 4000 rpm above 9psi has jumped about 7%.


When are you having the flaps open. On the JDM car with a 16G that these come off if they don’t actuate til 5500rpm. That’s where mindblowin found it ideal as well as me. It logged the best 60-120 times with it opening at 5500rpm on my eBay 16G setup. But idk. others have struggled to make power on a cyclone too.
 
Everything I've read prior suggested around 4100, but it varies with setup. I chose 4100.
I also switched to the knock sensor I was running in my 1G (yes, it's a 2G sensor since I used this 95 ecu as well), as it was still in almost new condition and wasn't deteriorating like the current one was. I thought it was just more sensitive around the 3K rpm mark because I was getting a lot of knock around that point at 14psi but not after I looked at my WBO2 vs AFRatioEst there.. needed considerably more fuel above 10psi, as I said. The numbers settled back down after the butterflies opened at 4100, but that's to be expected because it then followed the 1G IM in terms of flow and velocity close enough. Ah, the joys of SD. Some days, I wish I still ran mass air.
But if this is truly the case, this Cyclone is going to chew through fuel OMG My VE table looks quite different now in boost.

BLT passed with great results too so I know it's not leaking any air between the IM gaskets or IC couplers.

I need to add a fuel pressure sender to my shopping list for next year. Perhaps a new clutch as well as I think mine is starting to slip
Sad thing is I just developed a slight weep from the water pump o-ring. It's not consistent and it seals itself up a few seconds after startup from cold but sad.
Oh well, it's only a couple weeks away until it's put up for the winter anyway.
 
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Just installed the new clutch pedal lever into my pedal assembly. Now I can get the pedal installed and interior reassembled.
If you happen to ever find a brand new one in the original Mitsubishi packaging, make sure the bushing that holds the return spring is installed correctly. I had to press the bushing out of my brand new one and flip it around. Weird.
 
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