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2G No Spark! Please Help

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Joe Dean

Probationary Member
4
0
Mar 27, 2015
Meadville, Pennsylvania
I want to start off by saying I’ve been looking all through the forums and have not found a single answer in any other posts that I have seen.

I will try to be as in depth as possible with my explanation. I have a 98 Eclipse Spyder GST with a 7 bolt. Car ran fine until I took it apart and put it back together. When I got the car it was already chopped up and into so I decided to upgrade a few things. I ended up pulling motor and trans and pretty much pulling everything from the engine bay. I had the harness out of the car and took out everything that was unneeded, EGR, ABS, Stock 02 sensors (running wideband) (other one to map sensor), and Fuel pump rewire.

While I had the motor out. I redid the head, ported and polished it. Added 280 cams, Manley springs, titanium valves. Kept the bottom end stock. Redid all timing components. Put new adjustable cam gears on it. Stage 4 clutch. All hard pipe intercooler kit. Went with a 20g turbo. 255 fuel pump.1200cc injectors. There’s no ac. I’m trying to include everything to hopefully give an idea. As far as getting everything back together it’s all been fine.

Have DSM link in the car and tuned it via remote tuning. All spark related things are brand new. New cam sensor new crank sensor new coils new plugs and wires. All timing marks are on. Timing plate is on correctly. Cam sensor plate is in correctly. The car will crank and crank all day and it’s getting fuel but I have no spark. Via spark tester, when I test wires the power goes to coils but doesn’t go past them.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hi, have you made sure all sensors were plugged in all the way? Also did you have the DSM link installed before when it was running?
 
Yes all sensor have been checked. And DSMlink was installed after
 
Yes the PTU is still good I even swapped them from another gst I have to make sure all wires are connected. The blue-red wire is connected directly to the black-white wire. Harness has been messed with prior to me owning it
 
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Put a voltmeter on pins 6 and 8 of the PTU with the ignition in run position. You should get battery voltage on each pin. Also put it on pin 3 of the ignition coil plug. This is the first thing you should do. If these voltages are missing, you could have a bad ignition switch. Next, if you have a scope, probe pins 2 and 7 while someone cranks the engine. You should see pulses. If you don't see pulses. Check your CPS. Without disconnecting the CPS plug, insert the positive lead of your voltmeter into pin 2 of the CPS connector. With the black lead on ground, you should read close to zero volts or close to 5 volts. Bump the motor a few times. The voltage should switch between 0V and 5V. If it doesn't, your CPS is bad. If it does switch, I would suspect the ECU.
 
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