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The daily Gsx

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So I've already rebuilt the trans but I got to tear it back apart to install this new 1-2 shift fork from white shed speed. But luckily the trans is still out if the car. Let me tell ya this thing is machine to perfection. I can't wait to run it through its paces for sure.
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Also here is a few pics of the head going back on today with l-19 studs. I ment to snap a picture of porting the oil port on the head but forgot. I'm taking all the dirty oil covered parts to work with me Monday to throw in the parts washer. And then they'll be off to powder coating. So I can finish this motor out.
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So I got a update but just a parts update. I figured I'd go ahead and rip off the bandaid. So I got most of the big stuff along with all the little picky stuff as well. Hopefully the wife doesn't notice. :tease:I'll go through the build specs and update them as well later. But this is most of it besides a few other things that haven't showed up yet. Oh and if any one needs the fans that are on this shroud let me know and I'll send them out for free. Also found a great deal on a kiggly hla and gsc beehive springs for 200$ what a week! I hope everyone has a great weekend!

Oh and huge shout out to @August578 for finding and sending out the timing covers, awesome guy!
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Looking good. Im in NC as well. Lumberton area. Also if there are any parts youre looking for, PM me. I recently sold my car and have a few things left over.
 
Alright I'm back with a small update. I got everything back from powdercoating. Figured I'd go with the storm trooper look since the car is white. Also found a evo 3 intake manifold for cheap. The only thing I'm waiting on now so I can officially put everything on is the bolts from zinc plating. Hopefully will be getting those back this coming week.

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I forgot to mention I sent my cams out to delta cams for some regrinding to the hks 272 profile. I can't say enough good things about that place. They was super friendly and quick. I know that's hard to come by now days. This should go pretty good with the hy35. Can not wait to get this thing finished woohoo!!
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Well finally got my bolts back from zinc. Check this stuff out, they did a great job with the bolt and nuts.
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I seem to have terrible luck with the plastic oil stick handle. So I went ahead and got a billet one. What a price of art, totally worth the 60$. While cleaning out the front of the car i Found this stm Cas cover in the car under the driver seat so score for me, Woohoo! Lol then from there I just installed a bunch of the small things. Like a new crank and cam sensors, the timing cover brackets, thermostat housing I just bolted up temporarily because for some reason I thought the 64 sohc water pipe would work but nope. Then hopefully tomorrow I'll have a trans update with the new goodies I got this week.
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Oh and for any one in the future this is the orientation of the camshaft sensor reluctor wheel with the engine TDC.
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@AWD-Tony thanks man! It's going a little slower than expected. But little progress is better than none. Also I got that from extreme psi, The brand is Frontline fabrications. All you do is press out a little pin in the oem dip stick and swap out the handles.
 
@AWD-Tony thanks man! It's going a little slower than expected. But little progress is better than none. Also I got that from extreme psi, The brand is Frontline fabrications. All you do is press out a little pin in the oem dip stick and swap out the handles.
I see. Yeah better results when you take you time. No need to rush things LOL
 
Yeah it's mostly my fault it's taking longer than I want it to. I have almost all the parts and stuff, but I also do this for a living. So after working on everybody else's vehicles I'm drained by Saturday and want nothing to do with a wrench. Lol

But I do agree slowing down and being patient is key to a good solid build for sure.
 
It’s tough when you’re wrenching for a living and completely understandable when you’re clocked out, you’re clocked out! To give you motivation, I’m sure all following your build wants to see it finished 👍
 
So I've already rebuilt the trans but I got to tear it back apart to install this new 1-2 shift fork from white shed speed. But luckily the trans is still out if the car. Let me tell ya this thing is machine to perfection. I can't wait to run it through its paces for sure. View attachment 668847

Also here is a few pics of the head going back on today with l-19 studs. I ment to snap a picture of porting the oil port on the head but forgot. I'm taking all the dirty oil covered parts to work with me Monday to throw in the parts washer. And then they'll be off to powder coating. So I can finish this motor out.
How was the install on the shift fork. Just saw these existed and am thinking about upgrading
 
Alrighty, just wanted to post this before I get into the transmission and forget. I've been thinking about the best thing to do for heat/rust management on this exhaust manifold and exhaust turbo housing. What I came up with is to cerakote it with there v series product. I've been seeing alot of people use it on other builds with great success. So fingers crossed it works like how I'm hoping it will. At the very least it will look better. Lol
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Alrighty here is the billet 1/2 shift fork and also the evo 5th gear install. So with the trans obviously out of the car and on the work bench.

Start with taking out the reverse switch and detent bolt.
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In the front you will have 3 hollow bolts with springs and detent balls. Use a little magnet to retrieve the ball out of each hole. Then make sure you put them some where they cant roll away.
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Also the reverse gear bolt that runs through the back case.
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Now were going to get into this thing! Flip the trans up on the bell housing and what I do is use a couple piece of 2x4 to raise it up so the output shaft doesn't touch the table. You will need a 14mm socket for all these case bolts. So we will start from the top.
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For this step you need either a penny and a long breaker bar or a 1/2" impact which ever you have. If you have a penny put it between the 2 gears while you take these 2 nuts off. Both require a 36mm socket.

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Next you have to remove this roll pin so you can take the fork and 5th gear assembly off. Use a punch to remove it. Also set the roll pin somewhere like a magnet tray or a bowl.
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Remove this snap ring, you could use a pocket screw driver or if your lucky a set of snap ring pliers. this can be tricky the first time doing it. Now when you lift the viscous coupler up and off the shaft there's a retaining ball behind it. It will likely fall out so be on the look out.
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So with every out split the bearing race case. use a dead blow hammer or very carefully use a regular hammer. When you pull it up be careful and mind full of where the bearing races go and the shims. Most of the time the races slowly fall out.
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The only thing to take out behind the bearing case is the center differential. Twist and pull it out. then proceed to take the bolts out around the last case connecting it to the bell housing. Use the same tools that you used before to split this case apart as well.

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Congrats you have made it to the heart that usually breaks ours. LOL
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Now we gotta take the reverse mechanism out. Its only these 2 12mm bolts. After you take them, pull up on the reverse gear.
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You got 2 more roll pins here.1 on the 3/4 fork and another on the 1/2 fork.

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Now you can turn the shift rails so you can get more wiggle room to lift the forks/rails and gear set up and out of the case all at the same time.
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Carefully set them down and separate the forks from the gear clusters. After that just slide out 1/2 shift rail then the fork and replace it with the billet goodness that has been made for our great community. While your in there inspect the rails ends and 3/4 fork for any wear or cracks, trust me been there done that. I'm hoping some one will make new rails ends eventually.
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Now just reverse the process for assembly. Make sure you clean the case surface really well with a razor, brake cleaner and towels or coffee filters(doesn't attract lent or fuzz). Put you're reverse gear assembly back in and when you do remember the orientation of the top. There's a bolt hole in it make sure it faces the back of the transmission. Or else you will play hell getting it to line up after getting the case back on.
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This is a after shot put hopefully youll get the point of where there reverse bolt goes into.
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You can use ultra grey rtv to seal the cases back up. All the case bolts are 30ft pounds. Also do not forget the oil guide it attaches to the case like this.
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The last 2 big nuts go to 109ftlbs, have fun keeping this thing in one spot if you don't have a table that you can drill 2 holes into so you can drop 2 bellhousing bolts into. To stop it from walking around. If there's any other questions just let me know.
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