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2G I just need help

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grossman99

grossman99

Proven Member
39
8
Jul 19, 2022
North Wilkesboro, North_Carolina
Ok. I know this all has been said already and gone over in other threads but I can’t find what I’m specifically looking for for my situation.

Here’s the build: 1997 eclipse GS-T swapped with a 95 Talon 6 bolt 4G63. Stage 3 ACT Clutch,
oe spec pistons, forged rods (forget the brand) stage 3 head, ported and polished. Hks atmospheric BOV, Greddy Fmic, 70mm journal bearing turbo, forced performance intake. AEM
electronic boost controller, 38mm external
wastegate, aftermarket exhaust. Mishimoto
radiator with reversed fans. ECU was sent off to DSMLINK.

Right now, she barely idles. Takes a long time to start and sputters and sputters till she does. Takes some rpm’s and then drops back off. Will drive for about 10 feet then fall flat on its face and dies. Runs real rich as well. You can smell the fuel overloading. Fuel pump primes when you turn the key to the “on” position. Already rerouted the plug wires to the correct diagram, and have taken the whole kit apart from the turbo to the throttle body to fix any potential boost leaks. I am not going to lie, this is my first venture with any car of this type. I am a big v8 magnum guy but thought this could be interesting.

The AEM truboost controller has started throwing the ERS code which means it’s either disconnected or faulted out. Temp sensor doesn’t work for some reason and GLOWSHIFT oil pressure sensor has doesn’t work as well. The power comes on for it all but no readings. AEM airfuel gauge works as well as stock boost gauge. Blow off doesn’t seem to work either

I drove her about 10 feet today and she way over heated and started pissing coolant from an unknown location. It’s too low to see under but is in the photos. Engine hasn’t even been drove on the street since full build.

Any help or knowledge would just be fantastic.
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grossman99 said:
Okay so, checked timing. Crank was correct on tdc but, tdc for cylinder 4. Tore it down and made tdc for crank be for cylinder 1. Talk about a pain with the engine in the car. BUT, she wanted to start much better. Ran better too but still didn’t want to drive. Killed itself right as any boost started building. What is an SD as well?
Click to expand...
pauleyman said:
Explain this please. Doesn't make any sense. TDC is TDC. You set the mark on the crank and see where the cams are. If you retain balance shafts you have to rotate the motor 6 times before you will get a crank TDC and cams to line up again. Without balance shafts it's every 2 turns of the crank. I ki da think you just did a bunch of work you didnt have to.
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TDC is suppose to be set on cylinder 1. That means you rotate the crank to where your timing marks line up and make tiny adj to make it perfect. That is tdc. Mark it ti where you specifically want it. Then rotate it to where all pistons are equal in the cylinders. This is to make clearance for the valves so you have no interference. Mine, at tdc, on the crank, was 180* out on the cams. The dowel pins were facing downwards as well as the markers on opposite sides (pointing away instead of at each other.) so I rotated both cams 180* in order to bring them to true tdc. When whoever built this motor did it, they did it for cylinder 4 instead of 1 which puts your cams 180* degrees out making the vehicle just run like dog crap. Dowels up, cam timing markers together, crank on timing marker, means tdc for cylinder 1 on the ignition stroke instead of exhaust
 
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grossman99 said:
TDC is suppose to be set on cylinder 1. That means you rotate the crank to where your timing marks line up and make tiny adj to make it perfect. That is tdc. Mark it ti where you specifically want it. Then rotate it to where all pistons are equal in the cylinders. This is to make clearance for the valves so you have no interference. Mine, at tdc, on the crank, was 180* out on the cams. The dowel pins were facing downwards as well as the markers on opposite sides (pointing away instead of at each other.) so I rotated both cams 180* in order to bring them to true tdc. When whoever built this motor did it, they did it for cylinder 4 instead of 1 which puts your cams 180* degrees out making the vehicle just run like dog crap. Dowels up, cam timing markers together, crank on timing marker, means tdc for cylinder 1 on the ignition stroke instead of exhaust
Click to expand...
That is not correct. If you want to prove it to yourself rotate the crank one time and you'll notice cam dowels will now be down. Tdc is tdc. The number 1 and 4 piston will be at the top at tdc when the crank mark is lined up. What will be different is which one is on compression and which one is exhaust stroke but that is always relative to cam position. What you did is fine but essentially all it would do, is manually reset the compression and exhaust strokes. No big deal.

Now that I think about it your timing was probably off and in the process of this you fixed it.
Unless you had verified marks beforehand you probably can't know now.
 
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pauleyman said:
Now that I think about it your timing was probably off and in the process of this you fixed it.
Unless you had verified marks beforehand you probably can't know now.
Click to expand...
Yes. I verified marks before hand and it never lined up tdc crank vs cams on number 1. Always aligned on 4. Essentially, it’s not that bad, but like you said, I change it from firing on an exhaust stroke to now on an ignition stroke. I reset it.
 
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The Ecmlink website sells a SD kit. Comes with all the sensors and harness.
 
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The SD kit with Mitsu style MAP. I bought the same kit just haven't hooked it up yet.
 
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grossman99 said:
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What am I looking for??
Click to expand...
Before you proceed....just wanted to make sure you know what this is. If you're buying this so you can run your bov to atmosphere that is merely a secondary thing you can do. If you don't need to run SD it's likely easier to recirculate the bov.
 
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pauleyman said:
Before you proceed....just wanted to make sure you know what this is. If you're buying this so you can run your bov to atmosphere that is merely a secondary thing you can do. If you don't need to run SD it's likely easier to recirculate the bov.
Click to expand...
Can’t I just tune my mass air so I can keep my set up instead or having to redo a lot of things? I do understand that I can recirculate the bov I have on right now. Just a little fab and thinking so I don’t have to buy a whole new bov with system
 
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grossman99 said:
Can’t I just tune my mass air so I can keep my set up instead or having to redo a lot of things? I do understand that I can recirculate the bov I have on right now. Just a little fab and thinking so I don’t have to buy a whole new bov with system
Click to expand...
You don't have to buy a new bov. There is a pipe that allows it to recirculate. Or go SD. If you are wanting to have the ability to vent to atmosphere you need something that does that. No you cannot just tune your mas setup for that. That's not how this works. The problem is the mas counts everything that goes through it. When you release some of the counted intake air to atmosphere the ecu does not know this.
 
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pauleyman said:
You don't have to buy a new bov. There is a pipe that allows it to recirculate. Or go SD. If you are wanting to have the ability to vent to atmosphere you need something that does that. No you cannot just tune your mas setup for that. That's not how this works. The problem is the mas counts everything that goes through it. When you release some of the counted intake air to atmosphere the ecu does not know this.
Click to expand...
Ok. Imma keep it how it is but start figuring out how to recirculate my bov without having to buy the whole kit. That will be fixed before I proceed too far. On the other hand, I can not get my fans to turn on at all through the ecu. How do I bypass all that and just hook it up to one of my toggles so I can turn them on?
 
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How to recirculate your bov without having to spend a dime.
Do you have an old vaccume? Sumone you know does. Take that hose, cut it to length, get sum clamps and done.

Edit.saw your picture. You dont not have the port to recirculate on your FP intake. If it was me I would trade that intake for a recirculating one. You could get the old school 2g intake pipe that alot of us have for maybe 50 bux
 
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Bud92gsx said:
How to recirculate your bov without having to spend a dime.
Do you have an old vaccume? Sumone you know does. Take that hose, cut it to length, get sum clamps and done.

Edit.saw your picture. You dont not have the port to recirculate on your FP intake. If it was me I would trade that intake for a recirculating one. You could get the old school 2g intake pipe that alot of us have for maybe 50 bux
Click to expand...
Can I have a picture of it so I know what I’m looking at or can I just simply tap into the piping pre turbo after the mass and make it do like that? Make it look how I want it to look
 
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For your fans you can just run power through your toggle switch to a relay. Use the relay to route power to your fans. Reason for the relay is the fans will draw too much power for the toggle's wiring to handle - wire fires in the dash suck. Plus the relay will cut down on the wiring, making for a clean install.

Keep in mind that while this will resolve the "no fan on" problem, it can potentially cause extra wear on the fans if you keep them running more than necessary. Also, make sure your power to the switch comes from a switched/ignition source and not the battery, otherwise you run the risk of killing your battery if you leave the fans on after shutting the car off.
 
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You all can flame me, but I run my White GSX with a unrecirculated BOV and she doesn't give me any problems. Drives good, no hesitation, no gripes at all but it is on ECMLink and tuned so that may make a difference.
I just didn't want the OP to think "OMG, I can't drive the car" with his BOV not recirculated. It isn't correct but it does work, it just doesn't account for the extra BOV air.
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON said:
You all can flame me, but I run my White GSX with a unrecirculated BOV and she doesn't give me any problems. Drives good, no hesitation, no gripes at all but it is on ECMLink and tuned so that may make a difference.
I just didn't want the OP to think "OMG, I can't drive the car" with his BOV not recirculated. It isn't correct but it does work, it just doesn't account for the extra BOV air.
Click to expand...
You’re right it’s definitely a secondary repair to the main issue OP is having.
 
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So I just got in my dsmlink cord and got her all plugged in. Reading about how to tune the car is a children's game compared to when the app is open and you have the ability to change literally everything. I am honestly confused on what to do. Ive watched videos over how to just change MAFCOMP at idle and it doesnt seem to be taking the commands via just that change. If I literally can get any help, a step by step, that would be fantastic. Ive read a lot of threads and watched countless videos but it doesnt seem to be working. Thankyou in advance


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You will need to "Start Capture" and capture a log of the car starting and running up to temp. Stop that capture and save the file under "File", "Save As", and name it or leave it to its default. I like to add a note onto the name. Load that "Log" (thats what you just did, you logged the car running) like a picture on here and we can look at the log.
Marty
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON said:
You will need to "Start Capture" and capture a log of the car starting and running up to temp. Stop that capture and save the file under "File", "Save As", and name it or leave it to its default. I like to add a note onto the name. Load that "Log" (thats what you just did, you logged the car running) like a picture on here and we can look at the log.
Marty
Click to expand...
Oh okay. So you want access to the entire file? I can see if I can do that. I do have a couple captures saved so I’ll get right on that.
 
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1990TSIAWDTALON said:
You all can flame me, but I run my White GSX with a unrecirculated BOV and she doesn't give me any problems. Drives good, no hesitation, no gripes at all but it is on ECMLink and tuned so that may make a difference.
I just didn't want the OP to think "OMG, I can't drive the car" with his BOV not recirculated. It isn't correct but it does work, it just doesn't account for the extra BOV air.
Click to expand...
Yup. You can tune around open to atmosphere bov on a maf setup in link under Idle air tab, idle air clamp.
 
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grossman99 said:
Oh okay. So you want access to the entire file? I can see if I can do that. I do have a couple captures saved so I’ll get right on that.
Click to expand...
Yes, that way we can see any issues the car is having.
 
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