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2G Clutch Disengagement issue

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1dohc6

10+ Year Contributor
64
5
Sep 14, 2010
Greeley, Colorado
Hey guys I need some help. I can get the car in gear with the engine off, with the i engine on it only goes I into reverse but grinds. If I start the car in gear it takes off even with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

Rebuilt TRE transmission, replaced the slave and master, act 2600 street disc with act flywheel, competition clutch fork. I tried adjusting the master like I always have but it never gets to the point where I can’t press the fork back to the driver side.

The clutch pedal assembly was worn so I pulled it and had a buddy weld it and it’s not slipping anymore but I’m not sure if he welded it in the right position I can still lift up on the pedal

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Well your fork starts off at the correct place in the window but the travel is no where near what it needs to be which is your problem. It should go left to where it almost touches the housing when pedal is on the floor. Are you sure you have the correct clutch master and slave cylinders?
 
I took the brand new flywheel to the same machine shop I have been going to for years and they said it was already at .609 these are the pictures they provided

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They have always had to remove material to get the step correct on all my other flywheels in the past this has been the first one that they said was already at .609 so I thought that’s was strange which was why I had asked them to send me pictures
 
Those pics just show the step is consistant around the flywheel - not what the step is - but I suppose you have to believe them.

How does the dimensions of your competition clutch fork compare to the stock one? Is it the same exact length from the slave rod depression point to TOB pivot point?
 
This is the first time I have ever used a competition clutch fork I usually just buy an oem I never checked the slave rod depression point to the tob pivot point and I already tossed my oem. I’ve pulled the transmission twice the first time I installed it the fork was to far to the passenger side so I added a shim even though Jon from tre said it shouldn’t have need a shim after adding the shim the fork sat in the window where it should be. I’ll look through my pictures I might have one of the fork position pre shim
 
Yes that was way to far to the passenger side. https://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/clutch/armcentered.jpg

Here's mine: https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachmen...-fork-shimmed-pivot-ball-at-0-071-jpg.148436/

This is the first time I have ever used a competition clutch fork I usually just buy an oem I never checked the slave rod depression point to the tob pivot point and I already tossed my oem.
Well I'm sure the competition fork must be the same length (or nothing would work for everyone), probably just stronger. I was just wondering if you had compared them before the install. Don't worry about it.
 
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I did do the second step but my wife was helping me bleed the clutch tonight. I’ll have one of the technicians help me at work tomorrow and try to bleed again and adjust the master and give you an update. I’ve never had this problem in the past and have always used the act street disc/flywheel combo but this is my first 1g first time I’ve had a clutch pedal assembly with play and first time using competition clutch fork. Thanks for all you’re input. Was there supposed to be a link for the adjustment of the master rod in you’re last post?

I did do the second step but my wife was helping me bleed the clutch tonight. I’ll have one of the technicians help me at work tomorrow and try to bleed again and adjust the master and give you an update. I’ve never had this problem in the past and have always used the act street disc/flywheel combo but this is my first 1g first time I’ve had a clutch pedal assembly with play and first time using competition clutch fork. Thanks for all you’re input. Was there supposed to be a link for the adjustment of the master rod in you’re last post?
I refreshed the page and jacks video loaded that’s how I have adjusted on this set up and in all my others in the past I don’t know why
I cant get to the point where I back out the rod enough to where I can’t push the fork in I almost thead it completely out and the fork can still be pressed in
 
View the video again. He is turning the master rod clockwise which is in, not out, to find that crucial point.
I was turning the adjustment rod clockwise just like the video sorry I worded it wrong but I can never find the point where it blocks off the Bleeder valve.
 
Hey guys I need some help. I can get the car in gear with the engine off, with the i engine on it only goes I into reverse but grinds. If I start the car in gear it takes off even with the clutch pedal fully depressed.

Rebuilt TRE transmission, replaced the slave and master, act 2600 street disc with act flywheel, competition clutch fork. I tried adjusting the master like I always have but it never gets to the point where I can’t press the fork back to the driver side.

The clutch pedal assembly was worn so I pulled it and had a buddy weld it and it’s not slipping anymore but I’m not sure if he welded it in the right position I can still lift up on the pedal

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You can stop right here. Your pedal assembly is still bad.
 
Personally I'd search for a new or used assembly (junkyard or possibly a used part out on here). With welding you may forever be trying to get it right, especially if guessing the alignment (unless there is something obviously wrong and an obvious and correct solution that is guaranteed to be right).

I was turning the adjustment rod clockwise just like the video sorry I worded it wrong but I can never find the point where it blocks off the Bleeder valve.
While the problem is probably your misaligned welded clutch pedal, it might also be if you have a cheap aftermarket MC that doesn't have the bleeder valve in the correct place or at all (as I've heard some rare stories of this happening).
 
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Master rod has no threads left and it’s still doesn’t ever get to the point to where I can’t push the fork in with my finger and that’s with the brand new oem master. What would cause the master rod to not reach that crucial point when adjusting?
 
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