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How do I keep turbo bolts tight?!?!?

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OneFastEclipse

20+ Year Contributor
255
2
Jun 20, 2002
Canton, Ohio
Ok, I have literally tried everything. I am talking about the bolts that go through the exhaust manifold into the turbine housing. There are four of them and over time (couple of days) they all keep on working themselves loose. I have tried new bolts, lock washers, lock tite, torqing when cold and retorquing when hot. I have tried pretty much everything but they still keep loosening up. What did they do differently at the factory to keep them tight? What is the secret!!!!!
 
i am not sure on this one because i haven't fixed mine yet, but my local dealer told me that mine was coming loose because i took off the clamp that hold the downpipe right below the turbo, but about to replace the gasket for the third time so I ll now then.
 
Are you sure the threads of the bolts are fully threaded into the turbo but not too far through?

I have a bunch of (3 or 4) washers between my bolts and the top of the exhaust manifold to get the vertical spacing right.
 
I followed the Service Manual instructions and my turbo bolts have not loosened. I used 8 coned disk spring washers (Mitsu part number MR187848). Use two washers per bolt. There is a dimple on the side of the washer that faces out. The dimpled side of the bottom washer faces down and the dimpled side of the top washer faces up. Torque each bolt to 20-23 ft/lbs. Then tighten each bolt an additional 60-70 degrees of rotation. I used no loc-tite or anti-sieze.
 
toojung2die said:
Torque each bolt to 20-23 ft/lbs. Then tighten each bolt an additional 60-70 degrees of rotation. I used no loc-tite or anti-sieze.


I torqued mine to like 50-60 ft./lbs. and I used hi-temp anti-seize. loc-tite will just burn off. not having the hanger on the downpipe is a common cause for the bolts backing off, and some say it contributes to exhaust manifold studs breaking also.
 
RamenPride said:
I used hi-temp anti-seize. loc-tite will just burn off.
The grease in high temp anti-seize burns off too but all the powdered metal in it keeps the bolts from binding.

Steve
 
This was a change for 2gs as I am finding out. I had never heard of this for 1gs, there is nothing in the service manual but there is for 2gs. Obviously Mitsu figured something out and made a change, chalk one up for 2gs being better than 1gs.....

1G part # for the washer is MD132933 @ 5$ ea (x4)
2G part # for the washer is MR187848 @ 8$ ea (x8) that is 70$ shipped with tax for washers and I have two DSMs OMGOMGOMGOMG

I found a decent alternative at McMaster Carr
18-8 Stainless Steel Spring Lock Washer
Conical, DIN 6796, for M10 Screw, 10.5 mm ID, 23 mm OD

I chose stainless because I did all the nuts in bolts in this setup for the turbo to manifold in stainless but there is a steel option. You will have to grind down the OD from 23mm to 20mm to fit a FP manifold. On a stock manifold you might only have to grind 1 or 2mms.

So 15$ for 20 washers VS 160$ for 20 washers. Geez what a rip off MITSU
 
Conical washers as a pair. Or you can use high grade sprinv washers but your BEST bet is the nord lock washers! If those come loose your doing something wrong LOL

Or just convert to stud and nut and then you can use K nuts or locking copper nuts that self lock
 
Those nord locking washer are a great design. Feel like having a flat surface on both turbo and manifold are key from preventing bolts coming loose. I was fighting this on the setup that originally came on my car. Found the exhaust manifold was warped. After having it machined, it never came loose.

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