Not a lot of stereo discussions here.

1) For stereo updates/upgrades, are there any eclipse spyder 99 concerns, recommendations, and or limitations that may not be obvious? I know the electrical systems for the DSM isn't great, so I was curious if there are other limitations inherent in that car.

2) Happy to consider recommendations. I have spec'ed a system below. My goal was to build a system that incorporates wireless android auto/carplay and have a backup camera. I want it to have solid bass, but not rattle the next car over. I know that with the top down, I will need something with some power. Years ago my brother was an installer at a place in Florida, so I must get something that he won't heckle me over.

Alpine 2din ilx507 + backup camera
Alpine S6.5 in doors
Alpine S 6x9s in rear panel
Alpine Type R 10" sub in prefab box (single)
Alpine S A55v amp channel

*the store was not going to replace or use the 3 inch speaker on the left/right dash, which I thought was odd.

I ran a bunch SPL systems for many years in my Talon and it was pretty straight forward. I never bothered replacing the dash or door speakers though...I just wired the deck, monoblock amp and subs.

I forget the specific model of the deck but it's a Pioneer head unit from 2006.
The amp I ran last was an Orion HCCA D5000 monoblock paired with an Orion HCCA 15.2 sub.
I had 0 gauge wiring throughout with an Optima Yellow battery as well as a 5.2 Farad Capacitor.

The only major issues that I faced were having to completely gut the rear to make it all fit as well as power cuts every so often.

It was my fault though to be honest. I never bothered doing the Big Three, which was really dumb of me considering what I was running.

Either than those, it was pretty easy.

A 15 in a Talon...nice. must have slammed

Haha yeah, it did!

I am ditching the wireless android auto feature, as it may not be used and will save $250.

GReddyTalon said:

Haha yeah, it did!

Click to expand...

and nothing in the current car. Oh man...

@ipWitan You can always buy a usb wireless carplay dongle later. As far as suggestions, I always do a secondary battery by the amp, but that's me. I would do that or a nice capacitor just to reduce the toll on the cars electrical system on the hard hits, and avoid any dimming.

The installer talked about a capacitor. I assume that is what he meant. thanks for the info

Capacitors don't work, please stay away from them in these times. Big 3 is a must, 4 to 0 gauge a must, awg copper, don't use aluminum copper coated.

I don't run any audio in machine. But it'd be perfect for 5 ch amp, 6x9 in rear.. whatever the fronts are and a 12. Box tuned to 32hz,ported.


The audio game has changed tremendously.


Also I think that amp puts out no more than 300w to the sub ch at 2ohm. And 200 at 4ohm.

The alpine sub would have to be

Alpine SWR-1042D Type R​

If power over 1kwatts, use a 2nd battery. The way these things run and w the gauges, ecmlink or whatever, I wouldn't run anything over 500watts. You'll be driving and while you're in boost, the bass will hit, probably pull all your power from the injectors and put a stall on your performance

Thanks. The system is in. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/josephine-spyder-gst.540866/

I am flirting with the idea of building a ported box to replace the sealed one I made. It hits pretty good, particularly with the top up. When the top is down, it is pretty good too, but not the same. To convert to a wedge or ported design, I just need some help creating the specs for it. Specifically, I can build it 11D, 14H, 32-34L, rectangle. If I make it paralellagram shaped, it will slide under the trunk lip and potentially add an inch to the depth. When I build the wedge, I am not sure of how long it should be when modifying from the recommended ported enclosure. See https://www.jlaudio.com/products/12w6v3-d4-car-audio-w6v3-subwoofers-92141. At this point, I kindof like having 1/2 a trunk. But who am I kidding, if it hits harder and louder, screw the trunk.

There's an I app I use. Ultimate car audio. It has a few calculators you can use to get your design. It includes a tone generator for when you tune your amp to your head unit.

I wouldn't waste any time building a custom box because of time, money, and it being a one of one. Your only chance of resell is to another local DSM tuner.

Skar has the only box tuned and sounds perfect "out the box"

It's tuned to 32hz, ready to go, and under 100$ and will be at your front door step in 3 days. You don't like, return it, no problem.

Single 12 skar box

I think I failed to mention that I have a Spyder. There is no chance that a 18/16 deep box will fit. It has to be around 11 deep. Notwithstanding, I did find another box on ebay that is 11x15x27.5 specifically tuned at 33 for a JL Audio 12w6v3 for around 100+/-. I am debating whether to just buy it. The smart me buys it, but I built a sealed box, so I have at least half a sheet of .75 just sitting in my garage taking up space. So of course it makes sense to spend 3+ hours building a box.

I will check out that app. There are some web tools but they are locking up my browser.