Get yourself a Haynes or Chilton manual, you'll need it for more than just a head gasket job

I would suggest the FSM (Factory Service Manual). Haynes & Chilton suck.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-factory-service-manual-chassis-and-body-volume-1.517364/

Or click and download the free one here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-factory-service-manual-chassis-and-body-volume-1.517364/. Yes Haynes & Chilton manuals are famous for have missing info, wrong info, missing specs, and wrong specs (eg. torque), and don't show model differences.

@luv2rallye Looks like we posted the same link.

Great minds think alike...

Given your other posts if this is the same 420a I assume you are replacing the head and not just the gasket? More investigate is needed if this is the same car.

pauleyman said:

Given your other posts if this is the same 420a I assume you are replacing the head and not just the gasket? More investigate is needed if this is the same car.

Click to expand...

Yes I will be replacing the head and the head gasket.

Assuming you're not pulling the motor you must pay attention to the block surface and if any pistons have damage. You may have to clean some of that up. If you did not already know surface prep for the block should not include any roloc discs, sanding disks etc.

pauleyman said:

Assuming you're not pulling the motor you must pay attention to the block surface and if any pistons have damage. You may have to clean some of that up. If you did not already know surface prep for the block should not include any roloc discs, sanding disks etc.

Click to expand...

Yes I will be leaving the engine installed and will be inspecting the engine block.. I will be doing this on Friday. Do you mind if I post some pics up of the pistons and surrounding areas and you can give me a second opinion as well?

post in this thread and the forums will answer accordingly.
Any opinions of photographs will likely contain some amount of subjectivity unless you have measurements of anything you are doing. If this is your first time doing this just go slow.

This is my 1st time doing something like this. But don't plan on rushing it. I just wanna get more experience and do it correctly. I really appreciate the feed back yall give

Cleanliness is key. Careful hand work with a scraper, use a shop vac or something equivalent so you don't get junk down in the passages. Don't trust your eyes, run your fingers over the surface -- rusty or cruddy areas to touch need more work. 'Clean enough to eat off it' is probably clean enough. This job takes real patience.

Definitely bent some valves yal... I removed the head out of the other engine and ita good. I am in the process of cleaning it right now.. any tips on what to use to clean it?? I had someone tell me that I can use the dish washer anyone done that before???

I used a pressure washer + degreaser, then dry it off really good. I sprayed it down with WD-40 to prevent surface rust on the steel pieces like the cams, springs, etc.
If this is your good head, make sure you get it decked. Those gouges don't look too good:

The pics are from the bad head

You have a head off the car already. Send it the machine shop and have it checked, decked and ready to go. It isn't expensive. If your budget is that tight at least check is to be flat. Do not use ANY abrasives. Plastic brushes, solvents, soap and time will get it down to where it's workable and you can actually see if anything needs to be scraped etc. Razor blades will gouge aluminum easily and quickly. Use them sparingly on a cylinder head if at all.

Whats going on guys... so update I took the original head to get the bent valves replaced and should be getting it back any day now. I also bought new components for the head. my questions is about the valve lifters. I bought new ones and I can compress them with my fingers. I seen multiple ways to fill them with the engine oil. It seems that sticking a small Allen key down the middle and purging it is the best way to get it filled.. is that the best way to get it done or what have yal done in the pass?

Whats going on all,
Finally got my engine head back from the shop. Got some bent valves replaced, cleaned and resurfaced. Now I am going to reinstall it in a few days. Already gave all of my gaskets ready to go, bought new engine head bolts. I also saw the updated torque specs for the MLS gasket. I have the manual with the sequence to install all the components.. this is my 1st time doing this so I'm here for some advice.. I was told to slightly lube the engine head bolts with some engine assembly lube... is that the correct thing to use? Or what has everyone else used and worked out?? Any advice to help me make this easier and correct will be highly appreciate it...
Currently engine is out of car and on an engine stand.

Engine STUDS for sure need ARP lube on the washers and upper stud threads. I've not done a "stock" top end rebuild but I would use the same. It keeps the friction of the threads from altering your torque readings when assembling.

When I worked at a dealership, We used engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the used head bolts after piston ring replacement (Hondas).

Like Marty said, just a little bit of anything that will ease the friction should be fine for stock bolts.

The manual is good. This thread was a game changer for me when I rebuilt my motor (first time as well): https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/project-rely-on-ability-6-bolt-rebuild.276707/

If you’re going to use it, I’d suggest reading through the entire thread several times.

Hope it helps you!

Bryan
Dat240zg

In addition, make sure you BLEED your lifters so you don't bend valves again. Just putting it on this thread for safety sake.

Keep in mind this is a 420a he's building, but most everything said still applies!

My ARP stud kit came with "Moly Lube" to use on the threads.

@BLACK'98DSM , are 420a motors torque to yield? I haven't built one but that just came to mind.....I don't want to dish out bad info.