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ECMlink Link EBC function: No signal from ECU!!

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PredatorSniper

10+ Year Contributor
116
9
Sep 16, 2012
Wichita, Kansas
So I read a previous post on a guy who installed the IR solenoid to control it by Link for EBC function. So I tested all my stuff and I'm getting nothing from the ecu to the solenoid. I did the "Misc" tab to cycle the sensor and nothing, the solenoid is new I tested it, so I know it works. So the question is how do I do continuity test from my ecu harness in the car to the wires behind my headlight? How do I find those pins, how do you suggest me doing that? Can I buy a cheap EBC module instead of using Link?
 
IIRC, I had to lower both "lock at 0% below" and "And then 100% below" fields to their minimum values (-29.92). Have you tried this?
 
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IIRC, I had to lower both “lock at 0% below” and "And then 100% below" fields to their minimum values (-29.92). Have you tried this?


Okay break this down in laymans terms. I have disabled the error connection so I thought those don't apply?

IIRC, I had to lower both “lock at 0% below” and "And then 100% below" fields to their minimum values (-29.92). Have you tried this?

I can't manually cycle the sensor either way, so changing those values won't help.
 
I can't manually cycle the sensor either way, so changing those values won't help.

Yeah, you can't modify those values and manually activate the solenoid because boost control must be disabled. Did you try setting those values to full negative and then do a pull?

Don't ask me why, but mine would not work until I did this. I got the idea from someone off of the Link forums, and now I can't find the post. I think he mentioned something about it not seeing the right voltage. Anyway, before you send the ecu off to get checked, I'd give it a try.

Hope it works out for you...
 
Yeah, you can't modify those values and manually activate the solenoid because boost control must be disabled. Did you try setting those values to full negative and then do a pull?

Don't ask me why, but mine would not work until I did this. I got the idea from someone off of the Link forums, and now I can't find the post. I think he mentioned something about it not seeing the right voltage. Anyway, before you send the ecu off to get checked, I'd give it a try.

Hope it works out for you...

If those values wont work if I have it disabled how does it work for you now? I'll try it when I get home tonight.
 
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If those values wont work if I have it disabled how does it work for you now?

It's pretty simple really. Enable boost control, put the car in gear, press the gas pedal, turbo spools, when it reaches a certain amount of boost the BCS opens...

This is how the wiki suggests to test it out:
http://ecmlink.com/wiki/bcssetup said:
Confirm that you have control

The first step is to confirm that you actually have some control over your boost.

Set the base duty cycle table to 0% across the board. You can do this by selecting all the cells in the table at once and then using the Ctrl+down arrow key combination to run all the cells down to 0%.

Go make a pull and confirm that you're getting wastegate pressure (probably around 10-15psi depending on the wastegate). You may find that you get some boost creep towards the end of the pull. That's usually fine too. You're just looking to see the minimum amount of boost you can achieve with your current setup.

Now, try increasing the base duty cycle table a bit and see that you can build more boost as the duty cycle values go up. Try setting all the cells to 50%, then 65%, then 80%, etc. You *should* see boost increase as the duty cycle increases. If it does, great...you have everything installed correctly and your system is working in a predictable manner. If not, review the install page to see if you can find what's wrong.

Notice how it states that "you're just looking to see the minimum amount of boost you can achieve." When you do the pull and you see only wastegate pressure, then it is working properly. If boost shoots to the moon, it's not working. Also, I shouldn't have to tell you to BE CAREFUL. As soon as you see it go past wastegate pressure, stop the pull.
 
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IIRC, I had to lower both “lock at 0% below” and "And then 100% below" fields to their minimum values (-29.92). Have you tried this?

Okay break this down in laymans terms. I have disabled the error connection so I thought those don't apply?

Those values are always active, regardless of whether or not you are using automatic error correction.

***

Have you verified that the solenoid works, outside of being connected to the car at all?
 
He obviously didn't follow up..but I've been in touch with him through email for a while about this.. He had the ECU sent in and repaired..There was damage to a few drivers within the ECU causing his issue..
 
i am in this exact same spot and i have zero power to the IR solenoid. didnt wanna make a new thread since i found this one on google and its exactly what i have going on. i am going to have to pull the ECU and open it and look for damage. these things are WAY too fragile.

i will update this when i get it to work (because im the 1% Who actually comes back to report on the fix)
 
its a mirage, i have never used ebc on it. its had a mbc on it for a decade.

i tracked down the correct wires....someone cut them before i got this harness and i never saw them. red/yellow, red. verified red sees 12v power. verified red/yellow goes to the ecu connector.

the controller simply doesnt work. ive tried error correction, no error correction, the -29 on both lock points. nothing works. all i see is the same 20psi iwga pressure.

ive spent today in its entirety working on this and i have nothing. ive verified the lines are in place correctly. the connectors are brand new just put on today to the wires.

the biggest gripe i have is you cant even force on the solenoid to see if the ecu can control it. thats pretty dumb! i dont even know how to turn it on.

edit: someone said turn OFF "enable boost control" and then it worked....to the point it went to 30psi on spoolup before i even got to wot. so ENABLING boost control makes it go to iwg pressure only. UNCHECKING that box makes it just fully close and the iwg never opens......im gonna call Tom D tomorrow because thats the opposite of what i want.
 
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i will take a log tomorrow. dont know how much it will help..... i will log the things ecmlink said just in case. my mdp omni 4 bar is showing boost. my boostest works decently as well.

there are two options here:

-uncheck boost control box = unlimited boost, will blow motor

-check boost control box, and stays on iwg pressure. you can check/uncheck correction. you can set duty cycle to 100%, you can set target boost to 25psi, but nothing will change. i flipped the solenoid hoses and it acted the exact same way.

-i pulled the ecu, looks perfect.
-i have 12v on the red. i connected that to the solenoid and grounded the other wire and it clicks open to vent.

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If you turned something off and it worked but your not getting wire power then its either working or not? No power is zero working or it has power and then adjustments will work and its something your doing on the software.

Im not sure whats what any more. Actually confirm its working for one.
 
huh????? im trying to explain that ecmlink does not control it properly.

i can manually force the solenoid to click and switch to vent port by using the red wire from the harness at the connector (mpi and other keyed power from power main block) and running that to one solenoid wire. the other wire when touching to the chassis clicks the solenoid over, thus showing the solenoid does work.

the ONLY response from the ecu that does anything is unchecking the enable boost control box, and then the wga never opens and i have to lift as i see 30+ psi. the iwg is a holset 18psi actuator on my td05 20g

at NO TIME did ANY adjustments change ANYthing in the target boost or duty cycle tables
 
Manual is not going to work since your using the ecu so it needs to use the 2 factory wires provided. If those are not working then as i said i dont know how to solve that one.

But since you CAN do something in ecmlink that means its activating it somehow as its getting a signal or rather volt reading. If its seeing this then the wires work.

What i read above is your stock 2 wires were not working but you keep saying you can adjust something in link and it does something so this does not line up. And thats why i said its either working or its not. I dont care about hime rigging a power supply to active it manually im on about the factory 2 wire s in the harness. You say one thing then say it does this but wires are dead? So how can it do anything if its dead! If its dead then NOTHING at all for the wgs will work! Not even activating or un checking anything.

Im not near my laptop but once i get home i shall open it up and show you what i did yesterday as yesterday was my first time using this and it worked straight away. It did what i wanted it to do and i have to do final tweeks here and there but it works.
 
to clarify: i used the wrong connector initially. i only had a red- brown/white connector in the area where the ebc connector should have been. someone CUT off the ebc oem harness and it was hidden. i had to find it. it now is correctly wired up.

i am now using the OEM wires, and they have 12v on the red wire. the red/yellow goes to the ecu for wga.
 
Ok thabks for that, so it has power thats good. Let me go to my laptop later and go through what i have activated and the order i did it in.
 
I was just getting to my EBC when I had other issues come up, but in this log of mine it shows it is operating (somewhere around the 412 second mark in the log), as far as doing what I wanted, no. I don't think I have the values correct. I also run a override (scramble) button to activate the IR EBC. You definitely know it is working when you press that in the middle of a run. I had a log showing that but I can't find it among the millions of logs I have.
 

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  • log.2020.09.12-02 romp home from cville cruise 9-12-20.elg
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if you are adding duty cycle and seeing boost go up proportionally, or selection use correction and using target boost as well.......thats awesome. i totally get how both methods work, how to use duty vycle to control wga opening and even to tune in a spike if you want it up top. ive read them enough to know what is supposed to happen.

mine does not respond to anything when "enable boost control" is checked.......
 
Do you maybe have a break in the grounding wire going back to the ECU? It is hard to check if you are by yourself but a DMM at the EBC ground and then at the ECU pin would tell you if that circuit is complete. Then it would be the ECU not grounding when you are commanding it, if the ground wire is good back to the ECU.
 
thats another thing i have to check, yeah its a bit hard to do so alone (and im absolutely terrible with electrical diag...like bad) i stopped at 11pm last nite and parked the car. after work i can do that. something stupid is awry but i gotta find it yet.
 
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just got this from Tom D. didnt notice the lil button for it. i should be able to toggle it on and off in the ecu and verify it works properly. if it does.......the next question is why doesnt it alter boost level
 
I suspect the ECU's ground for that circuit, and hopefully it is just in the wiring. You can go to pin 105 (orange on the 10 pin connector of the ECU) and check it for ground when the WGS is active (1). If it IS, then run a temporary wire from it to the EBC.
BTW, I have never notice the manual control of the EBC on my tab, I need to look closer I guess.
 
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