Your clutch isn't disengaging, but I think you know that already. Did you verify the step height on the flywheel? Does the clutch pedal feel stiff or kind of spongey?

Whatever you do, don't force it into gear or you will wear out the synchronizers.

dwb said:

Your clutch isn't disengaging, but I think you know that already. Did you verify the step height on the flywheel? Does the clutch pedal feel stiff or kind of spongey?

Whatever you do, don't force it into gear or you will wear out the synchronizers.

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It’s a little spongy not very stiff at all and yea I verified the flywheel as well. Also not forcing anything in I’m just being cautious on the things I do and try to put it in gear but won’t force it in (even if I tried it wouldn’t let me) tried it once

I'd bleed it out a little better then. Sometimes it helps to push the slave cyl in by hand after you open the bleeder to get that little air bubble out.

If you can't get the car in gear with the pedal depressed, you need to make sure you've got the master cylinder adjusted properly and the clutch hydraulics bled properly. That is where 99% of these types of issues come from. Check the master cylinder rod first and report back after that. Here's a video to follow as well!

Thank you both I’ll try it as soon as I get home hoping it fixed the issue.

1997DSMALEX said:

I replaced the Master cylinder and Slave cylinder bled the lines and yet anything. I haven’t adjusted the MC rod by the peddle yet but any other suggestions?

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No. Adjust it.

habitatguy187 said:

No. Adjust it.

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I will when I get home hope this fixes the problem as well!

dwb said:

I'd bleed it out a little better then. Sometimes it helps to push the slave cyl in by hand after you open the bleeder to get that little air bubble out.

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idkiliketurbos said:

If you can't get the car in gear with the pedal depressed, you need to make sure you've got the master cylinder adjusted properly and the clutch hydraulics bled properly. That is where 99% of these types of issues come from. Check the master cylinder rod first and report back after that. Here's a video to follow as well!

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habitatguy187 said:

No. Adjust it.

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Unfortunately these methods didn’t work for me it still won’t go in gear

Take a look at your fork position.

rarely happens on 2g compared to 1g, but check for crack in clutch pedal. You can only see it when pushing clutch pedal.
I had that happen with my ACT2600 I used for many years and I guess to much pressure on the pedal.

You should be able to row through the gears with the car NOT running. That would at least assure that your shift linkage is still adjusted properly. If that works fine, then the clutch seems to be the problem. When I swapped trannies, I found that mine needed adjusted to the point where I had to remove some of the treads on the cable adjuster.

You didn't mention what you found in terms of clutch fork position at rest. If it's left of center, then a shim is in order. A new pressure plate means the fingers are likely not where they were on your old clutch, and that could have thrown this geometry off.

Here is an explanation of how and why we have problems with clutches.

dwb said:

Take a look at your fork position.

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I uploaded some pictures how do these look? First picture is when clutch isn’t engaged the second is when it is

I would say that's barely moving. Something still isn't right with hydraulics. I would adjust the master cylinder INTO the clevis bracket and rebleed then readjust.
Just from this info I think you still have air in the system.

IMO, your engaged position (your top pic, the clutch is "engaged" with the trans) looks to be a little off to the left or in the "add shims" area of the first pic I posted above. Not that shims are the correct answer here, but I believe the fork should be pretty well centered in the bell housing cutout. Did you inspect or replace the fork and pivot ball? What about the TOB, is that new? With the previous clutch, did you have disengagement issues with that one too?

Now maybe your fork position is OK, kinda hard to tell, but you might be on the far edge of the hydraulic adjustment range. Did you bench-bleed your new master before install? I'm not sure what your bleeding procedure is, but when I bleed my clutch, I like to use a little grease on the bleeder threads, a clear tube attached to the bleeder nipple and the other end submerged into a container of old brake fluid. That way I can see air bubbles pass through the tube and less chance to suck air back into the system.

I also think there is no way your clutch will work with that minimal amount of travel. That end of the fork is the longer end of the lever that see-saws at the pivot ball. The fork that engages with the tob is the short end, so more travel from the slave is turned into more force on the clutch fingers. Small travel of the slave means even less travel of the pressure plate. I had to remove my trans, shim the ball, and took several tries to bleed & adjust to where it would not creep during the gear-clutch-rev test.

Mech Addict said:

I also think there is no way your clutch will work with that minimal amount of travel. That end of the fork is the longer end of the lever that see-saws at the pivot ball. The fork that engages with the tob is the short end, so more travel from the slave is turned into more force on the clutch fingers. Small travel of the slave means even less travel of the pressure plate. I had to remove my trans, shim the ball, and took several tries to bleed & adjust to where it would not creep during the gear-clutch-rev test.

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Thank you man I appreciate this input I’ve been bleeding the hell out of this slave no air bubbles coming out whatsoever so I finally decided today to take it into a shop and have them do it as I don’t have time anytime soon to take apart the transmission again but I’ll definitely give an update soon to see where I went wrong and help anybody else

You shouldn't have to take apart the clutch or the transmission. Because from your 2 pics in post #14 it looks like the problem is outside of all that.
Could you measure your clutch pedal free play (at the top of the pedal stroke) and tell us how much it is?
Like dimension C in this diagram from the factory service manual.
Too much is bad of course. But too little is also bad because it interferes with the operation of the port that connects the master cylinder to the reservoir.