The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Rix Racing

ECMlink RESOLVED - What the hell is going on with my car/tune going full lean.?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Marty did you ever send in the ECU by chance for a check up?
I bought another ECU with Link and no difference when installed so I didn't send mine in.
Change your injector settings so that the ecu thinks that it is running a smaller injector, maybe yours are not flowing what they should?
They are NEW 2150's but I can "fool" her and see if she reacts. If that helps at all, I have ANOTHER SET of freshly cleaned and back from FIC that I will swap back in. I swapped them once before and found no change.
I sure appreciate you guys :)
 
I like the idea back a ways of getting an in-car fuel pressure gauge just to ensure the pressure you're seeing in link is, indeed what the car is getting. Also as said above if you haven't changed the global to mimic even larger injectors if you haven't already and how about adding a second fuel pump into the mix?
 
My 525 pumps have all (3) delivered wonderful pressure and I do have an in the car fuel pressure gauge to monitor fuel pressure. Since it won't boost, I can see 43 lbs on the gauge with no vacuum and around 36 lbs when it is idling. I can't see 3 fuel pumps from reputable sources all failing (but who knows anymore). The Link fuel pressure reading needs taken off the logs as that quit 2 weeks into tuning with KJ. I can wire it directly to the ECU I suppose since I have it laying on the passenger side of the console and can get to it.
So, what sensors and ECU components tell the injectors to pulse more? I need to investigate any and all of those. I put a new CTS in and a new TPS just a month ago, again, to make no change.
:idontknow:
 
I know the injectors are new but those are the bosch CNG's from FIC, correct? Do you have another set of 2150's to try? I ran the Bosch 2150's for about a year and was having all sorts of issues. AFR's would read lean periodically and it turned out to be a sticking injector.
 
I don't have a different brand Tony but I do have a spare freshly cleaned set of FIC's. I ALMOST just threw them in when I replaced the intake gasket but didn't. I need to look at inventory. At one time I had a set of Bosch 2200's but didn't have any data to set them with so I never installed them. Worth a shot as soon as this FRIDGID weather gets out of here. I am not into 9*, it makes me sit on the couch...ROFL
 
I don't have a different brand Tony but I do have a spare freshly cleaned set of FIC's. I ALMOST just threw them in when I replaced the intake gasket but didn't. I need to look at inventory. At one time I had a set of Bosch 2200's but didn't have any data to set them with so I never installed them. Worth a shot as soon as this FRIDGID weather gets out of here. I am not into 9*, it makes me sit on the couch...ROFL
It’s lean everywhere besides idle. I would just throw those in and leave the tune as is. You won’t have to drive far to see if it’s the injectors. When it’s 10* LOL
 
Might as well give it a shot. My inventory shows that I have a set of Bosch 2150s in Box 32, but you are meaning throw the spare FIC 2150 set in as a test? I've done it so many times that it is childs play now....About a 15 minute job, LOL.
 
Might as well give it a shot. My inventory shows that I have a set of Bosch 2150s in Box 32, but you are meaning throw the spare FIC 2150 set in as a test? I've done it so many times that it is childs play now....About a 15 minute job, LOL.
Yes. Swap em and leave the setting as is. Hope that’s it 🤞
 
Gonna give it a shot. Hell, if I hadn't just forgot to take the other set to the shop when I was doing the intake gasket, this would have already been done......that's on me.
I will report back (as soon as this stupid cold weather gets out of here). :banghead:
 
The car is COVERED in ice at the moment.....ROFL
 
PROBLEM FOUND!
Gelled E85 was the culprit. It is on the surfaces of the inside of the fuel tank and feels like slime. It would gather on the fuel pump sock and almost shut off fuel pickup.
More info about the issue is on my cars profile page.......
I want to thank each and every one of you (14 of you) that tried your damnest to help me figure this issue out. It took a whole YEAR, can you believe that? But it won't take long now and I will be boosting with a big ass smile.
I appreciate each and every one of you,
THANK YOU!!!!:thumb:
Marty
 
That is crazy. I run e85 during summer. Then in periods where the car sits, I leave mostly 93 in it. Just to clean everything and prevent damage of lines and what not. Heck, might be a rumor but there are plenty of threads talking about it. Did you open up the filter to find issues?

Either way, glad the cars back up considering warmish weather is here. :)
 
Yes I did open up the FuelLab 10 micron filter to find, what looked like, little fish egg type substance. After that it lead to the pump, its sock and then the tank itself. Once I cleaned the sock REALLY good with brake parts cleaner, the car ran GREAT, for one run. Now I am sure the sock is full of that goo again. I need a few new replacement socks for my pumps too. I don't want this to happen again or to anyone else.
 
Is there anything you can add to the tank that would dissolve the gel and not do damage to anything, like Dry Gas or Techron, or that stuff you add to tanks if you're storing the car for a long period of time? Otherwise, maybe it's best to drive the car till the tank is nearly empty, dump the remaining gas and clean the tank thoroughly, and avoid the gas that caused this in the first place?
 

How to Remove Sludge From a Gas Tank​

by Melissa Lowery


Over time, sludge, trash, and water can build up in your vehicle's fuel tank and cause your fueling system to become clogged. This buildup of waste materials can also cause your gas tank and fueling system to rust. Sludge buildup spreads throughout your fueling system and causes fuel to back up, which in turn creates expensive damage and causes your car to burn gas more quickly. Removing this sludge saves repair costs and maximizes your car's fuel efficiency.


Step 1​


Dress in protective clothing, including thick gloves and safety goggles. Wear this protective gear throughout the entire sludge removal process. Fill a gas can with gasoline before beginning.

Step 2​


Remove the lid from your gas tank, and insert the siphoning tube. Two tubes normally extend from the siphon pump; insert one into the gas tank and the other into a clean, safe storage container. Turn the siphon pump to remove all of the liquid from the gas tank slowly.

Step 3​


Remove all of the hoses that connect to the gas tank using a wrench set and pliers. The amount and location of these hoses will vary depending upon vehicle make and model.

Step 4​


Remove the gas tank from the vehicle. The gas tank removal tools and processes will differ for every vehicle. Gas tanks are heavy; use precautions when lifting from the vehicle.

Step 5​


Spray water into the gas tank using the water hoses and pressure attachment. Spray down the inside wall well. If draining out the tank is a problem, remove the water with the siphon pump.

Step 6​


Add 1 cup of baking soda and 2 cups of white vinegar to the gas tank. Fill the tank three-fourths of the way with water to create a cleaning solution that will break down and dissolve any buildup. Allow this solution to sit for at least an hour. For a deeper clean, the mixture can remain in the tank overnight.

Step 7​


Drain the cleaning solution from the tank. Again, you can use the siphon pump to make this easier. Rinse the inside of the tank several times to remove any traces of the solution. Fill the tank, and rinse down all of its sides at least four times to ensure the tank is entirely free of any cleaning solution residue.

Step 8​


Dry the gas tank with a blow dryer. Allowing any dampness to remain inside the tank will result in rust, which is dangerous to fuel systems.
Reattach the gas tank and hoses to your vehicle. Add half the gas in the spare gas can to the tank to complete the cleaning and allow the vehicle to run.
 
That's actually very helpful as I'm soon going to clean my tank. But I was wondering more if there's anything the OP can safely add to the tank without taking it down for a proper cleaning that would dissolve the gel.
 
From everything I have read, it keeps going back to the method above. The only idea I can come up with is to disconnect the fuel line at the motor and turn the car over to pump out the nasty... Another way is to go under the seat and remove the pump and filter to clean then use a siphon pump to remove the garbage from the tank. They do advertise a chemical to clean diesel tanks but I haven't found anything for gas engines.
 
I will find out this weekend hopefully. I won't stop scrubbing until I feel good ole metal.
Thanks guys! :)
I have an old Walbro 255 with about 12' of hose on it that I use to pump my fuel out of my 55 gallon barrels so I plan on removing the pump/hanger assembly and sticking that in my tank and let IT pump out that stuff. I hate to put any more through my 525 pump, she was still working. I don't want to kill it.
 
Marty, there’s a drain plug on the d/s of the tank. There’s a paper gasket from the factory. I used gasoline safe teflon tape on the bolt when reinstalling it.

Should we close this thread so it doesn’t turn into “how to clean your tank” thread?
 
I am glad you brought up the drain Tony. I have read threads where they can't get them to seal again so I was going to "try" to not have to take it out. I was looking at using my wet/dry shop vac to suck out all the "cleaner" then wipe it down like the instructions say to do with the included towels (more if necessary).
Now, let me make SURE that this tank cleaning/fuel system cleanout fixes my original issue, and then, it should be closed up and for sure be the resolution so others can reference all of it in the future. I wanted to post a couple pictures before closing her up of the sock, the look of the tank, closeup of the gel (if possible), etc.
Thanks for all of the tips guys! I have a 6 day workweek this week so I can't tackle this until Sunday.
 
Semi-retired......
Got the tank OUT. Figured I might as well do the best I can.
I had to keep moving when I got off work to get it done otherwise my ass sinks into the chair I'm sitting in right now. ROFL
I'll try finish up so we can MOVE ON :p

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top