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98 Talon AWD Street Modified

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So thats like the blade type bars then? Or nascar ones different? I believe genesis or elephant racing do the blade ones as i was looking into them aswel, just alot of money currently,
 
Nascar, blade, I've heard both terms used.
I've only done limited research, but I should be able to find the bar and maybe even the blades off the shelf. That just leaves the exhaust/muffler clearance issue, but moving it under the car solves that.
 
sweet, check out them places i mentioned as they can be bought in separate bits and pieced together how you see fit, be good if you can combine it with an internal adjuster like the top end race cars have aswel
 
Took some pictures of the rear subframe, made a half ass attempt to remove the OEM bushings before giving up and bringing it up to RRT in Canton CT. I'll probably hit it with some black paint when I get it back; gotta make the parts under the car look nice.
At some point I plan to do a Nascar Style splined sway bar with a bearing housing attached to the subframe, part of the reasoning behind that additional gusset.
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Nice! I miss this thing. Make sure you lock up or I'm going to come and steal the penske's.
 
Starting to get excited, clevises should be done tomorrow, still need to get all the parts anodized, etc., but I'm going to put 1 set together and on the Purple car to test at an autocross on Saturday.
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Wasn't able to get them on the car, ball joints came with these weird snap rings that didn't have holes.
The clevis pins in my original design were about .004 too small, and the heavy duty cotter pins didn't feel like the preload was enough to hold them on with high vibrations, so I swapped to shoulder bolts.
Just need to get the steel parts plated, and the aluminum anodized and they will be 100% finished.
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Looking good dude, what color you going with

Did you weight them complete yet to see the difference ended up being. Those washers are the height adjustment you mentioned right.
 
Looking good dude, what color you going with

Did you weight them complete yet to see the difference ended up being. Those washers are the height adjustment you mentioned right.
Was going clear on the arms, may change my mind and go black, red on the turnbuckles just to add some contrast.
The 2 washers on the clevis are to bring the roll center back to OEM. They are both .09 thick so there is a little roll center adjustability.
I don't have my scale with me at the moment, so no weight yet.
Did you add caster with this design? Curious to see what adjustment ranges you get.
The geometry of the arms move the balljoint .15" aft, so there is some caster built in. There is enough adjustment to bring it back to OEM unless you are trying to run -4 camber.
 
I definitely wouldn't want OEM spec, I'd want 5+ degrees of caster :) Very pretty design man, congratulations on getting to a physical product.
 
Was going clear on the arms, may change my mind and go black, red on the turnbuckles just to add some contrast.
The 2 washers on the clevis are to bring the roll center back to OEM. They are both .09 thick so there is a little roll center adjustability.
I don't have my scale with me at the moment, so no weight yet.

The geometry of the arms move the balljoint .15" aft, so there is some caster built in. There is enough adjustment to bring it back to OEM unless you are trying to run -4 camber.
If you go clear get it hard clear as it goes goldish and looks titanium like color,
 
Finally have a garage again, so no excuses for getting this thing back racing (easier to get this one running, as the other Talon needs a new motor). Last event I did in this car was 2018.
Drained the fuel, changed the oil, replaced the 10 year old 285/30/18 Hoosier A6's with new 285/65/18 Yokohama A052's, spent way too much time on a home brew alignment (Front Camber -4.8, some toe out but it drives straight, Rear Camber -3.2, ~0 toe) and removed the sunroof.
Up next is wrapping the roof, hatch & hood, reinstalling the headliner and trying to figure out a drivers seat mount solution so I can actually fit in the car with a helmet.

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Been a while for this build to be updated! Glad your finally able to get back up and working on it and progress again
 
If anything I went a little overboard on the camber, although I'm currently using tools in my garage to measure and I'm not confident in the numbers I'm getting. I think I was aiming for a range of -1.5 to -4.5 and its looking to be much more negative than that (and with the ride height higher than I was running with the smaller diameter Hoosiers). The drivers side adjustment spins by hand, while the passenger side needs a wrench, I did have the sleeves in the frame rip out and had to get them welded back in at one point, not sure if there is a misalignment there.
I need to get in on an alignment rack to see what exactly it is at, and then make some adjustments from there.

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I'd be interested in whether or not you can get caster adjustability by extend the anchor points differently. I only get around 5 deg caster with my spc arms and I'd like to be up to 7, while still getting up to -3.5 camber. I feel like I'm making a wish list for your pet project... just thinking out loud :D Man these things are pretty.

If you weren't aware Andrew Brilliant found when switching to sphericals (i.e. hard) mounts at the anchors the metal around the anchor holes developed severe stress cracks, so he had to add reinforcement in that area. I personally just trusted he was right and had reinforcements added around the anchor holes, but since the switch I haven't seen any issues.
 
Assuming the mounting holes in the frame are parallel, caster should be adjustable. I actually had 3 sets made.

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I made 3 because it was only a bit more than having only 1 set done.
Are you prepared to sell any? I have 2 HPDE cars here ready for testing if you're wanting to sell some for testing. I'd love some caster adjustment, camber sweep on my car works well as is but I like adjustability.
 
Are you prepared to sell any? I have 2 HPDE cars here ready for testing if you're wanting to sell some for testing. I'd love some caster adjustment, camber sweep on my car works well as is but I like adjustability.
I need to do more testing and measuring before I feel comfortable letting them out of the barn. Without looking at current material prices, I imagine these would be priced to much for most people.
I've got an alignment scheduled for Friday, time to see how accurate my toe and camber gauges are.
 
Interior and non-sunroof headliner are back in, the sun visor clips are broken and I seem to have misplaced the pair I got 3D printed, so ordered another pair from Xometry.
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The seat sits too high with sliders on the typical Corbeau seat brackets, so I cut out the cross members and was able to lower the seat, probably OK for autocross, I wouldn't trust them if things went FUBAR at track speeds though, it is 1000% easier tightening the rear two bolts now. The slider lever was too narrow, so I cut it in half and jammed them into a section of .5" ID PVC pipe and added some electrical tape, my dad would be proud.

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Well, got the car out to it's first event in nearly 4 years, my first goal was to finish the event with a functional car, so posting the fastest time at the event was a bonus, ended up 2nd on the Pax index. Had some issues getting the laptop to log, nothing like having the laptop flying around the car during a run. I did manage to get one run logged.

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I may also have an issue with the Accusump as the gauge seems to be stuck at 40 psi, I'll need to get that figured out before I run any higher grip sites.

Post event just needed to tighten some suspension bolts and I'm getting a little rubbing with my billet front arms.
Unfortunately didn't make the event this weekend as the car doesn't seem to want to start, chased some issues regarding the battery, but haven't found a solution yet.



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