I'd like to know if anyone has any information on the 2.4l swap from the stratus 2002 and earlier or any other cloud cars with the same engine.

I tried making a profile on 2gnt but the link to make a new account seems broken.

I've been researching a lot on said swap and it seems difficult but also doable for me but I've never seen a full build with pics on the timing rotation on the cams and sensor or if I need a different computer. I know one mount needs modified but it don't specify. i don't know if I can use my 5 speed trans or a different trans. i haven't bought anything yet. I never a 420a sitting on a stand that needs redone and an eclipse that runs and drives fine but the motor is wore.

Taxes are about to hit and just wandering if this is doable for me. Wanting to run n/a until I actually get it then maybe think about turbo way down the road. Please help if anyone still uses these forums.

Plenty of people still use this forum. I can't think of any that have done this swap though.

If I were going to do this swap (which I probably will one day), I would use the 2.4 bottom end and the 2.0 top end. This way you don't have to worry about awkwardly routing the intake/exhaust due to the reverse flow head on the Stratus. You should be able to use the 420a ecu if you swap over all the sensors (some may need to be cut and spliced, you won't know until you have both engines side by side). There is one mount that will need to be changed also.

BLACK'98DSM said:

Plenty of people still use this forum. I can't think of any that have done this swap though.

If I were going to do this swap (which I probably will one day), I would use the 2.4 bottom end and the 2.0 top end. This way you don't have to worry about awkwardly routing the intake/exhaust due to the reverse flow head on the Stratus. You should be able to use the 420a ecu if you swap over all the sensors (some may need to be cut and spliced, you won't know until you have both engines side by side). There is one mount that will need to be changed also.

Click to expand...

Do you know anyone who has done the swap I did read about using the 420a head off the eclipse for that reason but they also talked about turning the pistons and rotating the cams 90 degrees and rewiring the injectors in a different order. Which I'm pretty sure I can do all these things I just need more information pics maybe. 2gnt has allot of info about this swap I think it has been done I must can't get in there because the broken link.

The reason you need to rotate the pistons is because the intake valves are larger than the exhaust valves, therefore the valve reliefs on the piston will be larger as well. If you buy forged pistons you won't have to worry about this, as the reliefs are symmetrical.

The only reason you need to alter the cam positions is if you use the cams from the 2.4 cylinder head. If you keep your 420a cams in your 420a head with the 420a sensor no additional degree in is required.

So pretty much the 2.4 liter and 420 head combo are good to go with just forged pistons?

Also what engine do I need for the combo, I have a 420a head should I rebuild it? Want to get something built before I think about pulling the running engine

And can I use my trans and axles

I can't say if the belhousing bolts will line up. The best way to know is the measure. But if the trans fits then the axles should fit as well.

Ok, would you happen to know which engine I should snag.

I'm hoping to source most parts from the scrap yard for the first go around. I'll check everything make sure it good I've read it's best to cut the balance shafts out as well?

Anyone else have any information on this swap or know someone that does?

This post over at 2gnt.com should answer most of your questions. I have completed the swap, however on my second trip out on the town, the freeze plug on the head behind the timing belt cover blew out so the car is down and I'm in the process of tearing it back apart.

I also have a wiki article, again at 2gnt.com, here. Hopefully, looking over both of those should give you a better idea of everything involved.

BLACK'98DSM said:

The only reason you need to alter the cam positions is if you use the cams from the 2.4 cylinder head. If you keep your 420a cams in your 420a head with the 420a sensor no additional degree in is required.

Click to expand...

This isn't entirely true. While you can use the 420a head, cams, and sensor (I did), you still need to rotate the cam magnet because the 2.0L crank sensor reads off cylinder 1 and the 2.4L crank sensor reads off cylinder 2.

So the cam sensor magnet needs rotation, the coil pack needs rewire, and the injectors need rewire to compensate for this. All of this is explained in the first thread mentioned. Routing of the exhaust is something that will have to be addressed.

Again, read over the posts until you understand what needs to be done and why, and you'll be all set to tackle the swap.

BLACK'98DSM said:

I can't say if the belhousing bolts will line up. The best way to know is the measure. But if the trans fits then the axles should fit as well.

Click to expand...

The bellhousing bolts line directly up. The passenger side engine mount has to be custom made and the oil pan doesn't have a "dent" for the exhaust to run thru so you either have to have the oil pan custom welded or run short pipe straight at the ground or out the side of the front bumper.

The car in my avatar pic is actually a 2.4 swapped talon. It was the worst decision I ever made. I'm not sure what your intentions are with the swap but as far as N/A it is a waste of time unless you are looking for more low rpm power and less top end power.

I just did it because I put a rod thru the side of a 2.0 and had a spare PT 2.4 engine laying around. For the circle track racing that I was doing with it it was slower as a 2.4 than it was as a 2.0. I think a lot of guys go thru the work of the swap and then say it's better just because who wants to say they did all that work and ended up with a slower car..... I played with that stupid thing trying to convince myself it was faster for a year but lap times don't lie.

If you're going turbo its probably a different story but I can't speak to that

97egl said:

I'm not sure what your intentions are with the swap but as far as N/A it is a waste of time unless you are looking for more low rpm power and less top end power.

If you're going turbo its probably a different story but I can't speak to that

Click to expand...

I do plan on strapping a turbo to it later down the road. and as far as being the fastest thing around I'm not now so I don't mind being a lil slower till I figure out what I'm doing.

I can almost certainly rewire the injectors and coil make my own oil pan (with something to start with) and fix the cross member to where the exhaust will fit. I'm really just trying to make sure it's possible before I attempt it. I'm very mechanically inclined though I'm not a master at anything but I can fab some shit.

But my main goal is to get this running with as little money as possible to see if I can do it then go from there. I know down the road I'm going to have to break out some Benjamin's but from what I researched I can mostly use stuff I can source from a scrap yard.

One sec I'll post what I've been reading over and over again until I get an exact idea of what I need. Please please please if you have info on this or something about what I'm about to post is incorrect please correct me.

420A to 2.4 swap Avenger 1st Gen by bad venge​

bad venge , 04-08-2007 04:25 PM
Section Moderator

The 2.4 engine used in the swap is the one from Chrysler found in the following cars
Stratus, Cirrus, Breeze, Caravan, PT Cruiser, Sebring convertible, Stratus Sebring sedan 2g

you can use any engine from 1995 up to 2002
2003 was the introduction of the NGC computer and the new crank sensor system which is not compatible with our computers so avoid 2003 and up, that includes the PT Cruiser turbo and SRT-4 engines

To do the swap you also need to replace the 2.4 head with a 420a 2.0l head from an Avenger, Sebring, or 2GNT Talon or Eclipse.
If you bought a late model 2.4 (2001-2002) you could have one with the new generation of lifters and rockers known as the PT Cruiser style lifters and rockers. You could swap those in your 420a head for a nice upgrade.
The headgasket are the same 2.4 or 2.0 you could use either one.

The 2.4 used 3 different timing belt tensioner setups over the years.
Early model 95 to late 96 used an hydraulic system similar to the one on our 2.0 engines, the big difference is the tensioner pulley, it bolts on the water pump instead of the block, and many neon guys have broken the water pump in pieces when using big cams, the pump is not strong enough and you need a particular model of pump to use it.
The second system was used from early 97 to 2002 it's a mechanical tensioner and not a very good one.
2003 was the introduction of the second generation tensioner and it's the one you should use, it's the one that you found on the SRT-4 turbo engine too.

To do the swap you also need an UDP because most 2.4 setup have the alternator in the front and the power steering pump in the back and the oil filter is just near the pulley, a stock size pulley will not fit properly, so a UDP is mandatory.

The 2.4 come also stock with balance shafts. They are in a housing inside the oil pan, you need to remove them. They are fed by an oil gallery that you will need to patch somehow, easiest way is to tap threads inside and put a bolt with red loctite.

You will need a custom oil pan, mine and Schoby's pan were made using Stratus 2g pan cut and tig welded. The custom pan is needed to make space for the exhaust downpipe and the cross member under the car.
Some early years of the 2.4 have a nice steel pan that is easy to work with other years have a double layer pan with insulation material, avoid at all cost. Also avoid the turbo engine oil pan, it's not a good choice. Late model stratus have an alloy pan.

Oil pump. Again, here several choices are possible some are better than others.
We used a Stratus 2g pump. It's probably the best you could get. Early model Stratus put the filter 90's from the engine making a mess when you unscrew it. The Caravan pumps have a very long neck for the filter, also not a good choice. Turbo engines have the filter separate from the pump and you need the turbo oil pan to use it, again not a good choice.

You will also need a custom made engine mount for the timing belt.
A simple solution is to buy a SRT-4 engine mount, the part that goes on the engine. It's also the power steering pump mount on the SRT-4 and it's very easy to put the Mitsubishi power steering pump, that our cars have, right on it. This mount also has 2 nice bolt holes on top.
Hunt the junk yard for a 1g DSM engine mount that goes on the driver side. It's a big piece of steel with a donut the same size as the one on our cars but since it's steel it's very easy to weld on it, unlike the alloy one that we have.
From there you cut the DSM mount to keep the donut only and once the engine is under the hood you could hack and weld yourself a simple and strong engine mount using a piece of square tube and a piece flat metal.
It was 1 hour job to make on my swap.

Pistons and rods. You could use the stock ones for a NA setup or for an affordable turbo setup you could use SRT-4 pistons, rods, rings, and bearings. They are really cheap price wise everything is around 1/4 to 1/2 of regular 2.0 parts.
If you are using 2g style pistons either turbo or NA you will need to turn the pistons 180 degrees. The top of the pistons is made with a large and the slope should face the exhaust side. On NA pistons you could just unbolt the rod and turn the whole thing. On turbo piston it's a floating pin system and the rod is also directional because the base of the turbo rod had a oil squirting system. You can't just turn them so you will need to split the piston from the rod and turn only the piston 180 degrees.
You could also have aftermarket forged pistons and rods.
The SRT-4 parts should be good for 400 hp.

Electrical compatibility. The 2.4 and the 2.0 are using the same style of computer but the engines have a big difference. Because of the balance shaft assembly, the crank sensor on the 2.4 engine is not on cylinder 1 but on cylinder 2. The cam sensor magnet is also positioned in different way than the Neon DOHC engine to keep the right timing.
The 2.4 computer knows it, ours don't.
There's an easy cure for that, we need to make our computer think that cylinder 2 is cylinder 1 of a 2.0.
First we need to turn the magnet on the cam sensor 90 degrees CLOCKWISE, so when cylinder 2 will be at TDC the magnet instead of showing cylinder 1 at BDC it will show like cylinder 1 at TDC.
Second we need to switch injectors from 1 position to the left.
Cylinder 1 injector is connected to cylinder 2, cylinder 2 is connected on cylinder 3, cylinder 3 is connected on cylinder 4 and cylinder 4 is connected on cylinder 1.
The last step is to cut wire 1 and 3 of the coil pack and connect them 1 on 3 and 3 on 1.

What's happening by doing all this.
When cylinder 2 is at TDC by reading the crank sensor the computer thinks that cylinder 1 is at TDC. The computer verify by reading the cam sensor, the magnet is turned 90 degrees the computer is not sure that cylinder 1 is at TDC. It will send fuel to cylinder 1 and fire cylinder 1 and 4 (Wasted Spark - that's how our coil pack is always firing 2 plugs at the same time)
but since we rewired the injectors harness the real open injector is on cylinder 2
and since we also reversed how the coil pack is working instead of firing 1 and 4 we are sending fire on 2 and 3. Neat and easy.
How could also fine tune your timing by playing a little with the magnet.

Performance wise the 2.4 was designed by the truck division of Chrysler using off the shelf parts from the Neon/420a engine and refined by the engine division. It's a workhorse and not a high speed runner. In stock form the 2.4 is very restricted by the choice of cams, made for smooth low to mid rpm with no air available above 5500 but with a ported head, big or huge cams, a performance computer and all the performance parts available the 2.4 made over 230 WHP on several Neons.

I don't recommend doing an atmospheric 2.4 in our car because we lack many many parts to really profit from the swap. We don't have a performance computer except for 97and we don't have real long tube headers, etc.

Turbocharged, the swap is very interesting since a turbo engine doesn't really need to rev above 6000 rpm and SRT-4 parts are really affordable. With the stock 2.0 cams right now, without the turbo, I could push the engine to 6000 rpm. So far that's enough for me since I have an ATX car

The engine can work with the MTX or ATX transmission and I strongly recommend a 55mm TB.

That's about it for today

I'm going to the scrap yard to get everything I need soon.

I'm just trying to get some info, what to do, what not to do, expertise from some guys that have done this or have done research on doing this. Also just reassurances that it's possible and some A hole didn't make this post to mess with 420a guys. I know I got mad trust issues

DirtMcGirt said:

Again, read over the posts until you understand what needs to be done and why, and you'll be all set to tackle the swap.

Click to expand...

I have read both threads on 2gnt. I'm curious about computer I know you have to rewire injectors and coils and change the cam sensor position but is that really all it takes to make it compatible with our cars and as far as the can sensor which direction do you turn it. How do you know when it's at 90 degrees and which way does it need moved.

Also my trans I have the 5 speed 420a I know somebody said it will bolt up but just would like confirmation. I know this is a lot from a new guy but I would like to get into these cars and I'm serious about it.

I know everyone says buy GST or GSX but literally the closest ones to me are hours away or they're torn apart or their 10k for a GSX or TSI probably more [/url]

Richard420a24 said:

I'm curious about computer I know you have to rewire injectors and coils and change the cam sensor position but is that really all it takes to make it compatible with our cars and as far as the can sensor which direction do you turn it and how do you know when it's at 90 degrees and which way does it need moved.

Click to expand...

I have mine running on the stock 95 non-turbo ecu. Other years, not sure. As far as the cam magnet, head over to neons.org. There is a wealth of 2.4 swap info there as well, including specifics regarding the cam magnet.

Richard420a24 said:

Also my trans I have the 5 speed 420a I know somebody said it will bolt up but just would like confirmation.

Click to expand...

Yes, it bolts right up, however the braces that exist between the 2.0 and the trans cannot be used because the mounting bosses don’t exist on the 2.4 block.

DirtMcGirt said:

I have mine running on the stock 95 non-turbo ecu. Other years, not sure. As far as the cam magnet, head over to neons.org. There is a wealth of 2.4 swap info there as well, including specifics regarding the cam magnet.

Yes, it bolts right up, however the braces that exist between the 2.0 and the trans cannot be used because the mounting bosses don’t exist on the 2.4 block.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks bub I'll do a few more days of research figure out exactly what I need and I think imma go for it I'll figure out how to make a build sheet and try to document everything. Even though like I said earlier it'll be a bone stock first build just to get my feet wet. And thank you to everyone else for they're input as well much appreciated.

Richard420a24 said:

I have read both threads on 2gnt. I'm curious about computer I know you have to rewire injectors and coils and change the cam sensor position but is that really all it takes to make it compatible with our cars and as far as the can sensor which direction do you turn it and how do you know when it's at 90 degrees and which way does it need moved. Also my trans I have the 5 speed 420a I know somebody said it will bolt up but just would like confirmation. I know this is allot from a new guy but I would like to get into these cars and I'm serious about it. I know everyone says buy gst or gsx but literally the closest ones to me are hours away or they're torn apart or their 10k for a gsx or tsi probably more

Click to expand...

If you are going to do a turbo down the road do yourself a favor and get the bottom end from a turbo (GT) PT Cruiser or one from an SRT-4 Neon.

The "Computer" compatability is really the smallest of the issues you will face. You don't have to actually re-wire the coil you can just swap the 1 & 2 plug wires and the 3 & 4 plug wires.

The biggest issues IMO are
-The exhaust not fitting under the 2.4 Oil Pan
-Making a Custom Passenger motor mount
-Turning the pistons around on the rods if N/T (DO NOT JUST FLIP THE ENTIRE N/T ROD & PISTON ASSEMBLY AROUND. You'll be stressing the rod in the opposite direction it has been and these rods are WEAK to begin with)
-Dialing in the fuel pressure (The computer is adding fuel for an engine that's about 18% smaller than you have with a 2.4 so unless you are tuning the computer electronically you have to raise fuel pressure to compensate OR you need to get larger injectors. Either solution has to be dialed in. I had a bored out jeep throttle body on mine and I had to run about 63 PSI to keep the AFR in the High 12/low 13 range)

Again yes the transmission bolts directly to the block, your flex plate will bolt to the crank and your flywheel/clutch/pressure plate "pack" will bolt up too.

97egl said:

If you are going to do a turbo down the road do yourself a favor and get the bottom end from a turbo (GT) PT Cruiser or one from an SRT-4 Neon.

The "Computer" compatability is really the smallest of the issues you will face. You don't have to actually re-wire the coil you can just swap the 1 & 2 plug wires and the 3 & 4 plug wires.

The biggest issues IMO are
-The exhaust not fitting under the 2.4 Oil Pan
-Making a Custom Passenger motor mount
-Turning the pistons around on the rods if N/T (DO NOT JUST FLIP THE ENTIRE N/T ROD & PISTON ASSEMBLY AROUND. You'll be stressing the rod in the opposite direction it has been and these rods are WEAK to begin with)
-Dialing in the fuel pressure (The computer is adding fuel for an engine that's about 18% smaller than you have with a 2.4 so unless you are tuning the computer electronically you have to raise fuel pressure to compensate OR you need to get larger injectors. Either solution has to be dialed in. I had a bored out jeep throttle body on mine and I had to run about 63 PSI to keep the AFR in the High 12/low 13 range)

Again yes the transmission bolts directly to the block, your flex plate will bolt to the crank and your flywheel/clutch/pressure plate "pack" will bolt up too.

Click to expand...

I would like to get the bottom end of an srt or pt but I doubt I will find one in a scrap yard but will definitely be looking for cheap ones on fb or something I would need the crank as well correct? As far as any fabrication like the pan or mount I can most likely do those myself I weld and fabricate for a living no master but I normally have no problem there. What would be the easiest and most reliable way to raise the fuel pressure in your opinion? Also should I plan on buying a different clutch setup the 2.4 420a combo produces more torque off the rip with no mods doesn't it? But my first goal again is not to build a badass engine just get my feet wet at first then start upgrading so I don't mess up something and destroy expensive parts. I originally planned on getting two 2.4 from the scrap yard get one going then build the other on the stand. Is this not a good route to go. I've worked on cars all my life replaced/repaired all kinds of different stuff but this will be my first engine build and I have never put two different engines together . I have also never tuned cars or have never really done and serious modding so I am a little nervous being in new territory

PT GT Cruisers are actually pretty common in the junkyards. At least in the midwest where I'm at. SRT-4 not so much.

The oil pan is cast aluminum so you have to AC Tig weld it to fab it for the exhaust to route under.

You can raise fuel pressure with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. But you'll also need a wideband gauge set-up to see what your Air/Fuel ratio is.

You can run the stock clutch. You are not gaining that much torque or horsepower. The engine I had was 11:1 compression, fully balanced bottom, 18 grind cams, a ported head, 65 mm throttle body and an open downpipe and I never had issue with the clutch slipping. So if youre stock you won't have any issues.

(Also again even with all those mods the car was slower than it was when it was a 2.0 with the same mods) I was running laps not going in a straight line so drag may be a little different since it has less to do with powerbands.

I'm not trying to discourage you from doing the swap but just trying to give you insight before you put the work in. I wouldn't start with 2 engines. I'd just get a 2.4 from the junkyard and make the factory 420a/2.4 hybrid to start with. Then if you don't like it you can always build a 2.0 and go back to that instead of the 2.4. Just my .02 tho.

Let us know how it goes and possibly start a build thread so future users will have something to reference. These cars seem to be coming back in popularity so this swap will become a more commonly asked question and with the neon forums basically dead new reference material would be good

I read somewhere at this point not sure where I've been looking into this for some time that they're are some models that come with a steel pan that's the one I was gonna go with to modify is this not correct? As far as the gains I'm not really expecting much without the turbo setup that I do plan on doing just not right off the bat. I've read that the hybrid is a better platform then just the factory 420a I'm guessing just because the bigger displacement. I don't discourage easily though facts are facts I was just under the impression from researching swaps for the 420a that this is a much better option for the long run. Though what I seen on 2gnt they claimed doing this gains I think 20 hp and like 40 fpt is that not accurate? With the fuel pressure issue if I run a fpr and up the fuel wouldn't I also have to run bigger injectors or no? I'm not planning on dragging the car or roundy round really just something for me to tinker with and get more involved into it. Eventually I would love to have a 350 400whp beast I know I'm just not ready for anything like that financially and my skills are not up to par to build something like that yet. Just trying to take baby steps at first. But I will definitely be trying to find pt gt parts to rob I got a lil confused I thought you meant turbo pt I didn't even know they made one .

I've never seen this mentioned, but the mexican cloud cars use a EDZ engine that came factory turbo'd. Pistons and some other stuff changes to handle the boost from the EDZ that came with the clouds in the US, but it is exactly the same engine. I've seen those things make around 350hp with stock internals.

I guess making a hybrid 2.4 with SRT4 internals and 420a head is easier in the US but if you live near the border, finding a 1g cloud turbo for parts its a walk in the park.

ceasarmo said:

I've never seen this mentioned, but the mexican cloud cars use a EDZ engine that came factory turbo'd. Pistons and some other stuff changes to handle the boost from the EDZ that came with the clouds in the US, but it is exactly the same engine. I've seen those things make around 350hp with stock internals.

I guess making a hybrid 2.4 with SRT4 internals and 420a head is easier in the US but if you live near the border, finding a 1g cloud turbo for parts its a walk in the park.

Click to expand...

Damn I'd love to do that but I live in Ohio would probably be hard for me to get ahold of one of those

ceasarmo said:

I've never seen this mentioned, but the mexican cloud cars use a EDZ engine that came factory turbo'd. Pistons and some other stuff changes to handle the boost from the EDZ that came with the clouds in the US, but it is exactly the same engine. I've seen those things make around 350hp with stock internals.

I guess making a hybrid 2.4 with SRT4 internals and 420a head is easier in the US but if you live near the border, finding a 1g cloud turbo for parts its a walk in the park.

Click to expand...

The turbo cloud cars are SRT-4/PT GT engines. Won't work without serious modification in an eclipse due to intake being on the front. The exhaust has nowhere to go unless you modify the firewall and upgrading turbos sucks when its packed on the back side of the engine.

It is definitely a good source for a turbo bottom end for the 420a/2.4 hybrid if you live near the border tho! South America always got way better performance parts and options than the US on mopars. People used to pay high dollars for some of the parts that were south american only options on the 2.2/2.5 engines that came in the chargers and daytonas back in the day.

Richard420a24 said:

I read somewhere at this point not sure where I've been looking into this for some time that they're are some models that come with a steel pan that's the one I was gonna go with to modify is this not correct?

Click to expand...

To my knowledge all 2.4 oil pans are cast aluminum. They actually have oil passages in the oil pan on all the ones that I have seen which can't be done with a stamped steel pan.
There is a 2.4 mitsubishi engine that comes in the 2 door coupe stratus which has a steel pan but that engine is COMPLETELY different and no parts swap with the 420a

Richard420a24 said:

With the fuel pressure issue if I run a fpr and up the fuel wouldn't I also have to run bigger injectors or no?

Click to expand...

No. Adding fuel pressure causes more fuel to flow thru the same size injector.

Richard420a24 said:

But I will definitely be trying to find pt gt parts to rob I got a lil confused I thought you meant turbo pt I didn't even know they made one .

Click to expand...

Yeah the PT and performance dont go hand in hand exactly but their turbo engines make great doners for other cars! Just a tip on finding one in the junkyard- A lot of the turbo PT's are convertibles.

97egl said:

To my knowledge all 2.4 oil pans are cast aluminum.

Click to expand...

Well crap imma have to do some thinking about that then I don't have a tig might just have to run the pipe straight out the side for awhile.

97egl said:

Yeah the PT and performance dont go hand in hand exactly but their turbo engines make great doners for other cars! Just a tip on finding one in the junkyard- A lot of the turbo PT's are convertibles.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up I'm sure that will help me a bit

97egl said:

No. Adding fuel pressure causes more fuel to flow thru the same size injector.

Click to expand...

Ok thanks for the info and I appreciate all the other info this far. You got anything else for me to go off of

97egl said:

If you are going to do a turbo down the road do yourself a favor and get the bottom end from a turbo (GT) PT Cruiser or one from an SRT-4 Neon.

Click to expand...

OP, be aware that a GT/PT or SRT4 bottom end isn't a bolt-n-go affair with the 420a head. There is an enlarged oil passage that must be addressed to run the two together.

97egl said:

To my knowledge all 2.4 oil pans are cast aluminum. They actually have oil passages in the oil pan on all the ones that I have seen which can't be done with a stamped steel pan.

Click to expand...

Early cloud cars came with a steel pan, which was later changed to cast aluminum. The GT/PT and SRT4 pans are the ones that have the oil passages added because of the relocation of the oil filter. While anything can be done with some modification, the common rule of thumb is that you use the oil pump and oil pan from the same car, stratus pump & stratus pan or srt pump & srt pan.