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1G Knock sensor wiring

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97egl

Proven Member
706
434
Feb 6, 2014
Brownsburg, Indiana
I bought an aftermarket knock sensor which I know is a big no no but I figured it had to be better than mine which was so bad it set a code.....big surprise the connector has slightly different tabs so it won't plug in.

I'm trying to figure out which wire needs to go to which on the knock sensor. Engine harness has a black wire and a black w/ white stripe. The knock sensor has one wire that has continuity to ground and the other wire has high resistance to ground. I thought I had figured out which wire was the "grounded" one based of the schematic in the FSM but the drawing is wiered and I don't want to fry something.
 
Is this the page you were looking at? It looks like the B/W wire goes to ground. Edit: I just realized you are looking to see which wire to connect to B/W from the sensor side so hopefully someone that’s done this can jump on with that info.

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I know 1g sensors are kinda hard to find but there are definitely some out there, so I wouldn’t recommend hacking up the harness if you don’t really have to.
 
Is this the page you were looking at? It looks like the B/W wire goes to ground. Edit: I just realized you are looking to see which wire to connect to B/W from the sensor side so hopefully someone that’s done this can jump on with that info.

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I know 1g sensors are kinda hard to find but there are definitely some out there, so I wouldn’t recommend hacking up the harness if you don’t really have to.
I don't plan to cut the harness at all. The sensor I got has the same shape plug but it's got the alighment tabs to far apart and on the same side as the clip tab. I can just shave the tabs but I don't know which way to plug it in and I don't want to be wrong and fry anything.
1st pic is factory sensor plug 2nd pic is the aftermarket plug

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I see a big red flag.
"I figured it had to be better"
It's not the right sensor for the car. How do you even know if it will respond?
Worse what if it responds incorrectly?
 
I see a big red flag.
"I figured it had to be better"
It's not the right sensor for the car. How do you even know if it will respond?
Worse what if it responds incorrectly?
I would more than happily buy a real genuine mitsubishi MD141510 sensor but they just aren't out there. Discontinued everywhere I look. This thread had a link to an aftermarket on that I ended up buying in hopes that it worked.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/1g-oem-knock-sensor.530830/
Unfortunate that the plug isn't exactly the same but from the pictures of all the other aftermarket ones none of them will plug right in.

I also found a thread saying galant ones might work but no verification that they would for sure or wouldn't. And then another thread saying that ones from a mazda miata are the same but the plug just has to be re-wired but there is not follow up by anyone else verifying that it works.

So using this sensor is pretty much a last resort. If anyone could verify an alternate/aftermarket part that is known to work or could come up with a source for the OEM sensor I would be thrilled! All I can find is threads over the last several years saying "Your SOL" when people ask about a source for the OEM sensor and then if anyone asks about using an aftermarket sensor everyone jumps on them for that....
What do you expect to be able to do with this?
Modify the plug to connect to the factory harness correctly
 
Marty I think you should chime in here, I know you referenced some alternatives to the OEM one in the recent past. I bought one you posted just not sure exactly which one it was at the moment and how it stacks up to OEM. I too would pay through the nose for a new OEM one.
 
Marty I think you should chime in here, I know you referenced some alternatives to the OEM one in the recent past. I bought one you posted just not sure exactly which one it was at the moment and how it stacks up to OEM. I too would pay through the nose for a new OEM one.

Go with Paul @Paul@RTM :thumb:.
Very good and trusting source and yes a Galant sensor will work, it just has a shorter lead on it.
I have 2 OEMs, and 4 or 5 aftermarket units that I trust here on hand for future 6 bolt builds if I get any.

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