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2G blue wire mod?

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Raul420a

Probationary Member
13
0
Apr 9, 2011
Waukegan, Illinois
Now i've been here for hours reading threads on this and they all seem to ask "how to do it" but none have answered my question.

I bought my gst which i believe already has that blue wire mod done to it, or something else (im not sure and thats part of my question). Previous owner never told me anything and i didnt notice till like a month later

I think its the bwm because there is a switch on my center console. (on-off-on). at the "off" position the car would drive normal, gears would engage smooth (from P to R and R to D ect) and o/d worked fine. When in either "on" positions the car (trans) acts funny, when going from P to R its ROUGH and LOUD same when going from R to D. Once its on the go it would go thru the first 3 gears and well pressing the o/d button did nothing. NOW all of a sudden no matter in what position the switch is in it'll engage all nasty about it and when on the go wont get past 1st gear....ill be going like 40 and rpms are around 5k.

On to my questions. to begin with, am i right about this being the blue wire mod??
second, since i would have the switch in the "off" position all the time and drive it normal what could have caused it to start acting like it did ? (All wiring is how it was when I got the car, havent messed with anything so its not like i moved wires or something).

Could it be the TCU? Because the bwm wires up to it doesnt it? if so where is the TCU located? Some guy said it was underneath my center console but if im not mistaken thats my air bag module isnt it?

IDK where to beggin.:confused:
 
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The tranny has a solenoid (electronic) valve that regulates the internal pressure. The "blue wire mod" gives you 100% trans pressure all the time. High pressure damages transmissions, also explains the hard shifts from P to R to D since instead of engaging smoothly, the clutch packs are shoved together very quickly.

Point is that the tranny might have been damaged if previous owned had the Switch ON for a long time, and the damage is now showing up. Would suggest tracing the wires to/from the switch to figure out exactly what they are doing. Make sure it is what you think it is before doing anything else. Here is a link where they discuss the TCU locations (among other stuff): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/371007-tcu.html There is a difference from year-to-year.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The tranny has a solenoid (electronic) valve that regulates the internal pressure. The "blue wire mod" gives you 100% trans pressure all the time. High pressure damages transmissions, also explains the hard shifts from P to R to D since instead of engaging smoothly, the clutch packs are shoved together very quickly.

Ahhh Okay,
and yea i went ahead and traced the wires to/from the switch.
one was a ground with just a resistor in between.
the other two wires i had to remove the drives side kick panel and follow them to what is my tcu (according to the link u posted). In the bunch of wires that go into the tcu, the two wires from the switch go to a sky blue and white wire. I figure that if i just remove the wires from the switch and solder/heat shield the the sky blue/white wires back together ill be good right?? well given that the trans wasnt damaged because of that already.
 
Looking at the chematic (http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=114513&d=1287678223) and from what you said, seems like the light blue wire was for the pressure control, white was for power (5 volts) and ground is ,well, ground. And although this schematic is for a 1G, they say it's almost identical to the later models. Although the schematic looks alot more complex then your setup.
Either way, it was not from the factory so cutting out extra wires should not hurt anything.
 
The tranny has a solenoid (electronic) valve that regulates the internal pressure. The "blue wire mod" gives you 100% trans pressure all the time. High pressure damages transmissions, also explains the hard shifts from P to R to D since instead of engaging smoothly, the clutch packs are shoved together very quickly.

Point is that the tranny might have been damaged if previous owned had the Switch ON for a long time, and the damage is now showing up. Would suggest tracing the wires to/from the switch to figure out exactly what they are doing. Make sure it is what you think it is before doing anything else. Here is a link where they discuss the TCU locations (among other stuff): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/371007-tcu.html There is a difference from year-to-year.



High pressure damages transmissions? ROFL

You know its actually BETTER for a transmission to run at higher pressures than stock right?

That girly factory shifting is actually wearing out the clutches in the transmission.

It's far healthier for a transmission with a shift kit / elevated line pressure than it is to run at stock levels.
 
High pressure make shifting quicker, so clutches rub less aginst each other before locking up and transmitting all the power. So yes, full pressure makes them last longer.
On the other hand, quick shifting also puts more stress on the other parts of the tranny, increasing a chance that something will break, especially if parts are not well synchronised.

Come to think of it, if someone wanted full-pressure shifts, why couldn't they wire up the blue wire to the "Power-Economy" switch that (1G) DSMs have so "Power" setting also gives them full pressure shifts?
 
High pressure make shifting quicker, so clutches rub less aginst each other before locking up and transmitting all the power. So yes, full pressure makes them last longer.
On the other hand, quick shifting also puts more stress on the other parts of the tranny, increasing a chance that something will break, especially if parts are not well synchronised.

Come to think of it, if someone wanted full-pressure shifts, why couldn't they wire up the blue wire to the "Power-Economy" switch that (1G) DSMs have so "Power" setting also gives them full pressure shifts?

Thats what I did ;)
 
High pressure damages transmissions? ROFL

You know its actually BETTER for a transmission to run at higher pressures than stock right?

That girly factory shifting is actually wearing out the clutches in the transmission.

It's far healthier for a transmission with a shift kit / elevated line pressure than it is to run at stock levels.

soooo then i should leave it like that???
 
Now i've been here for hours reading threads on this and they all seem to ask "how to do it" but none have answered my question.

I bought my gst which i believe already has that blue wire mod done to it, or something else (im not sure and thats part of my question). Previous owner never told me anything and i didnt notice till like a month later

I think its the bwm because there is a switch on my center console. (on-off-on). at the "off" position the car would drive normal, gears would engage smooth (from P to R and R to D ect) and o/d worked fine. When in either "on" positions the car (trans) acts funny, when going from P to R its ROUGH and LOUD same when going from R to D. Once its on the go it would go thru the first 3 gears and well pressing the o/d button did nothing. NOW all of a sudden no matter in what position the switch is in it'll engage all nasty about it and when on the go wont get past 1st gear....ill be going like 40 and rpms are around 5k.

On to my questions. to begin with, am i right about this being the blue wire mod??
second, since i would have the switch in the "off" position all the time and drive it normal what could have caused it to start acting like it did ? (All wiring is how it was when I got the car, havent messed with anything so its not like i moved wires or something).

Could it be the TCU? Because the bwm wires up to it doesnt it? if so where is the TCU located? Some guy said it was underneath my center console but if im not mistaken thats my air bag module isnt it?

IDK where to beggin.:confused:
ME Could you send me photos or explain in more detail how it is installed and what resistance it has?
 
ME Could you send me photos or explain in more detail how it is installed and what resistance it has?
This thread is 8 years old so you probably won't get any replies from the previous posters. Perhaps you could start a new thread with your question.
 
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