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2G Very High Oil Pressure After Rebuild

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polverari

5+ Year Contributor
102
15
Jan 29, 2018
São Paulo, South_America
Hello friends, I'm here for another question.
As I always start my posts: Once again I apologize for any language errors.

I used the forum search, but despite finding some topics related to high oil pressure, I couldn't find an answer to my problem

I just rebuild my car engine (2G GST 2.3 Stroker) and the only things that changed:
O'rings on the cylinders, the crankshaft went to 0.02 and all the clearances are perfect (cylinders, bearings, connecting rods , crankshaft)

The fact is: My car has always had the same oil pressure. About 14 PSI at idle (when the oil is hot) and about 45 psi walking at about 3000 RPM (hot oil)
Now, at idle, when the oil is hot, the oil pressure is around 40 PSI and running at 3000 RPM, around 80 PSI.

The oil used is the same, the oil pump is exactly the same. There is no change in the structure or clearances of the oil pump. Absolutely nothing has been changed, with the exception of the brand new clearances and the o'ring on cylinders.

The only thing I saw that is different, is that the mechanic put a SCENIC oil filter.
Could this be causing all this change in oil pressure? Does it make any sense?

Finally: The mechanic claims to have cleaned all the galleries and there is nothing clogged.

To finish (and make it worse), several friends who do preparation work on other cars (VW, Audi, etc), tell me that this high oil pressure is great (for a car that is not original, it has about 400whp) and that I should keep it that way.

I would like to know your opinion.

Thanks
 

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How many miles on the fresh rebuild? Oil pressure will be higher and decrease as you put break-in miles on it. Did you delete the balance shafts and did you block of the oil squirters? As you delete "controlled" oil bleeds, the oil pressure will increase.
 
How many miles on the fresh rebuild? Oil pressure will be higher and decrease as you put break-in miles on it. Did you delete the balance shafts and did you block of the oil squirters? As you delete "controlled" oil bleeds, the oil pressure will increase.

Only 100 miles after fresh rebuild
Yes! I deleted the balance shafts
Oil squirters aren't blocked
 
What weight oil are you using? 80psi is way way too high at only 3000rpm. Would hate to see what the psi is at 7k!!!! If the balance shafts were deleted and the oil passage holes blocked off, then you will have extremely high oil pressure. Porting the relief valve in the oil filter housing will definitely help!
 
My oil pressure roughly doubled per 1000rpm increase (example - from 30psi @ 3000rpm to 60psi @ 3000rpm) after deleting balance shafts. You could port the relief valve or change out the spring to lower the max oil pressure. The lower pressure rated spring (MD015988) is rated for roughly 75psi. I found it has kept my oil pressure at a max of 85psi from 4000rpm to 7000rpm. I'm honestly not sure which is the better option, I just didn't want to mess up the port job and ruin my only OFH. If anybody else has experience with the lower pressure spring, feel free to chime in.
 
SO you did something else to the engine besides the oring.
I dont think putting more miles on engine is going to help that much, you need to do the oil pressure mod on your oil pump.
Deleting the balance shafts is probably the reason for the problem.

Mandy

No, no... I was already without balance shaft, even before this last rebuild
And i had always about 14psi on hot idle
 
What weight oil are you using? 80psi is way way too high at only 3000rpm. Would hate to see what the psi is at 7k!!!! If the balance shafts were deleted and the oil passage holes blocked off, then you will have extremely high oil pressure. Porting the relief valve in the oil filter housing will definitely help!
I'm using 10w40 (the same as I always used)
 
Need to port the oil pressure relief hole on the oil filter housing.

I will do this!
What is bothering me the most is that before the oil pressure was normal. I don’t know what happened to her going up like that
 
I will do this!
What is bothering me the most is that before the oil pressure was normal. I don’t know what happened to her going up like that
No, no. don't port for now. Porting wouldn't help your case since you have higher low side pressure, too.
What max pressure you have now at higher RPM? Where is the oil pressure sensor located and how are you monitoring it?
Did you try the same oil filter as before? If for some reason the new oil filter has less flow than the one you used to use and if the sensor is located pre filter, then the sensor would read higher pressure than before.
 
Could the relief valve be stuck??? I'd pop it out and make sure it moves free and doesn't bind.
 
First info:
This is the scenic oil filter that he placed on.

Can a oil filter cause this all?
 

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I think your comment may be the answer to my problem.
the filter that I used before, really was an eclipse. now a scenic one has been added which is much smaller and I put a picture of it in the last comment.
I will send a picture of where the sensor is that I use to measure the oil pressure.
it is in the oil filter housing, in the only entrance that I found available at the time to place
 

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No, no. don't port for now. Porting wouldn't help your case since you have higher low side pressure, too.
What max pressure you have now at higher RPM? Where is the oil pressure sensor located and how are you monitoring it?
Did you try the same oil filter as before? If for some reason the new oil filter has less flow than the one you used to use and if the sensor is located pre filter, then the sensor would read higher pressure than before.

BTW, I dont know if this place is considered "pre filter"

P.s -
the car's original oil pressure sensor also seems to mark more than it used to
however, I also don't know if the original sensor of the car is pre-filter
 
The original sensor is Post-filter.
 
Update: I changed the Scenic Oil Filter for and K&N oil filter
Same oil pressure
 
Hello friends, I'm here for another question.
As I always start my posts: Once again I apologize for any language errors.

I used the forum search, but despite finding some topics related to high oil pressure, I couldn't find an answer to my problem

I just rebuild my car engine (2G GST 2.3 Stroker) and the only things that changed:
O'rings on the cylinders, the crankshaft went to 0.02 and all the clearances are perfect (cylinders, bearings, connecting rods , crankshaft)

The fact is: My car has always had the same oil pressure. About 14 PSI at idle (when the oil is hot) and about 45 psi walking at about 3000 RPM (hot oil)
Now, at idle, when the oil is hot, the oil pressure is around 40 PSI and running at 3000 RPM, around 80 PSI.

The oil used is the same, the oil pump is exactly the same. There is no change in the structure or clearances of the oil pump. Absolutely nothing has been changed, with the exception of the brand new clearances and the o'ring on cylinders.

The only thing I saw that is different, is that the mechanic put a SCENIC oil filter.
Could this be causing all this change in oil pressure? Does it make any sense?

Finally: The mechanic claims to have cleaned all the galleries and there is nothing clogged.

To finish (and make it worse), several friends who do preparation work on other cars (VW, Audi, etc), tell me that this high oil pressure is great (for a car that is not original, it has about 400whp) and that I should keep it that way.

I would like to know your opinion.

Thanks
What type of oil are you using and is it the correct viscosity? Quality oil and filters can fix issues like this.
 
Personally I'd your max pressure is t over 90psi at full rpm, I wouldnt worry about it. My suspicion is clearances are tighter amd you're seeing some higher pressure as a result. As long as you don't go insanely high, no harm and enjoy the security of knowing your bearings have plenty of film and pressure to ride on.

You could always try a thinner weight oil, but I wouldn't do that myself unless peak oil pressure was over 90psi at high rpm.
 
What type of oil are you using and is it the correct viscosity? Quality oil and filters can fix issues like this.

I'm using 10w40 semi synthetic (a not very well-known brand, only for those first 1000 km)
After 1000km, i plan to use Motul Turbolight 10w40
 
Personally I'd your max pressure is t over 90psi at full rpm, I wouldnt worry about it. My suspicion is clearances are tighter amd you're seeing some higher pressure as a result. As long as you don't go insanely high, no harm and enjoy the security of knowing your bearings have plenty of film and pressure to ride on.

You could always try a thinner weight oil, but I wouldn't do that myself unless peak oil pressure was over 90psi at high rpm.

To be honest, I still didn't have the courage to accelerate the car far beyond 4000 rpm. I will try to accelerate to near 6000-7000rpm and monitor the oil pressure to see how far it goes
 
To be honest, I still didn't have the courage to accelerate the car far beyond 4000 rpm. I will try to accelerate to near 6000-7000rpm and monitor the oil pressure to see how far it goes
There is a pressure relief valve on oil filter housing, as long as that is working properly you won't have a 100+ psi steady pressure. You may have a spike over 100 psi when you rev up but it would settle down at around 100 psi. So you don't need to worry about that much. If you see the steady oil pressure is always over 100 psi, then you have to check the pressure relief valve. It sometimes gets stuck, in that case just clean the plunger and its sleeve wall well to make the plunger slide smoothly.
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I would not break in any new engine with synthetic oil. Good old regular oil to seat the rings. After that, use whatever you prefer. Only during breaking do I advise that.
 
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