I’m looking for a aftermarket cams and wondering which one would be best and if i’d need to also replace springs or valves if i decide to put in cams, not really looking to turbo soon just wanna slowly start getting it there.

Any help is a appreciated!

If you have a non turbo 2g, then you have a Chrysler 420a engine, there are not that many cam choices left for the 420a platform, you might be down to just Brian Crower.

motomattx said:

If you have a non turbo 2g, then you have a Chrysler 420a engine, there are not that many cam choices left for the 420a platform, you might be down to just Brian Crower.

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yeah it’s a 420a, is that a good brand to run? would i need to pick up some springs or valves with it or can i just do the cams, i’m fairly new to the whole building engines and information about internals, sorry if i come across as slow

Follow the manufacture's recommendations for springs, some say stock is ok, some sell or recommend upgraded springs depending on how aggressive the camshaft is.

Brian Crower and Crower, all of their cams require upgrade springs. (Recommended)

Brian Crower


Crower

DSMPT said:

Brian Crower and Crower, all of their cams require upgrade springs. (Recommended)

Brian Crower

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Crower

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since i’m not going turbo right now would it be smart to go with the turbo cams?

Slow_Rs said:

since i’m not going turbo right now would it be smart to go with the turbo cams?

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I wouldn't do that. If you are hoping to have more benefits from the turbo cams, then better not to do that. I recommend to go with a cam set that are designed for a N/A engine unless you are planning to go with turbo soon. The way to think on the turbo tune and the N/A tune are completely different.

DSMPT said:

I wouldn't do that. If you are hoping to have more benefits from the turbo cams, then better not to do that. I recommend to go with a cam set that are designed for a N/A engine unless you are planning to go with turbo soon. The way to think on the turbo tune and the N/A tune are completely different.

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alright i’ll look into them, and would i have to tune the car after i put cams and springs in?

Slow_Rs said:

alright i’ll look into them, and would i have to tune the car after i put cams and springs in?

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If "strictly" speaking and if you have a method to tune with all necessary sensors to log/monitor, yes you should tune each time when you install some parts that are not factory spec. But in reality, many cases it's not a must for running. You would probably be able to run without any issue by just dropping the cams and springs. It's just maybe you wouldn't get the max benefit from the cams.
One thing I would like you to remember is your engine is N/A. So, no upgrade parts/tuning would give you a drastic power increase at a time unless you go with turbo, nitrous etc.

The turbo cams have too much overlap for an N/A engine. Most of us run the Brian Crower stage 2 N/A spec cams.

The reason for upgrading the valve springs is to prevent valve float. You will get low end gains with cams alone but if you want to make more power all the way to red line then do the springs as well. Brian Crower also sells valve springs.

Crane used to make 242/242 cams for the 420a's and the Neon 2.0's. That's what I run. Valve spring upgrades are not necessary for these cams. The issue is finding a set of these, they're getting more and more rare.

A tune is not required to run aftermarket cams (unless you do stage 3 or full race). But you may throw a CEL for random cylinder misfire. That's just the ecu getting confused.

If you want the best tunability and gains, also consider getting some adjustable cam gears. You can move your powerband around a bit, and maybe squeeze out some horses if the timing is just right.

If you plan on seriously building your 420a, I recommend getting an AFR gauge. Because eventually, you will run out of fuel, and at that point the engine is a time bomb.