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2G Suspension help

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racefourfun

Probationary Member
3
0
Jan 29, 2010
Longmont, Colorado
Hi everyone,
I live in the Rocky Mountains that have plenty of twists and turns. I need help on setting up the suspension for my 98 GST Spyder for making the car perform well on these roads. I currently am running at 300hp motor. I have upgraded the brakes and have put Eibach lowering springs and camber adjusters. Rather than that the suspension is stock with both front and rear factory sway bars. I ask because I am on a limited budget so I am trying not to purchase items for trial and error. I am hoping someone has already performed the research and can supply me with a step by step process to get the most out of the car without making it ride so hard it won’t be fun to drive.
Thanks
Frank
 
The single best handling mod you can do is get good tires. After a good set of coilovers & not changing the ride hieght. Lowering hurts the suspension geometry & handling. Last suggestion is to up grade the rear anti-roll bar reducing understeer. Keep the OEM front bar. Make sure all your bushings are in good shape & the tire alignment is good & close to the nominal factory values. Polyurethane bushings help with predictability & response.
 
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Be careful what you wish for. I've seen many people think more is better. That's not always true. Case in point if a stiff bushing is good solid aluminum is better right??? From an ultimate handling standpoint probably but it will come with other things. Increased noise, vibration and harshness for example. If this is a streetcar tires first. Buy quality and understand decent handling tires do not last 40k miles.
My personal car I have eibach prokit springs, koni struts, st sway bars front and rear and full energy suspension polyurethane bushings. Prothane durometer is too stiff for me. I also run a 17x8 wheel with Michelin pilot super sport tires. I will be switching to a pilot 4s or Bridgestone re71. I would like a stiffer spring but for now this is a very adequate fun street setup and compliant enough where my passengers don't complain. I personally don't see the need for a coilover but if I did I would probably build my own and stay with the koni struts. The main reason I would do it is for spring rates not ride height issues
 
I recently replaced the front stock struts, mounts and pads with KYB & Moog, the stock bushings on the front sway bar, control arm and subframe with ES, new Moog front ball joints and link connectors, and new tires (Michelin All Season Pilot Sport 4). I also replaced the inner & outer steering tie rods and PS fluid. I kept the stock springs & seats, just cleaned them up and painted them. I plan on doing the same to the rear this spring, struts, mounts, bushings, ball joints, etc.

Even with only the front end restored handling is pretty tight but ride quality is still fairly comfortable (for this kind of car at least), and I like how it handles. Of course my engine & trans are stock, not HP mods, so it's still doing 195HP (supposedly the K&N air filter I put in adds a few HP but I didn't notice anything). So I don't really need any major suspension upgrades. Yours is a little more powerful of course.
 
My car has all bushings replacement, volk metal craft upper control arms. Manual rack. Sunlbframe bushings done front and rear. Waiting in coilovers this summer. She should handle like very well. Volk front parts next to
 
i also have the full energy suspension bushing set. they are not very expensive but are a bi*** to install, or should i say the old bushings a bi*** to remove, once they're out, putting in the new ones isn't hard at all.

since you have a convertible, you could get a roll bars, they will reduce body flex. probably not in your budget though.
 
My experience in removing the old bushings, at least on the front, wasn't so bad. Didn't have to burn or cut anything, just a 6" c clamp and some sockets. I did bend the clamp so when I do the rear I'll use a ball joint kit. Going to need one anyway to replace the actual ball joints there.

Putting the new ones in, ES that is, wasn't very hard. Just a bit messy since you have to use the rubber/silicone grease they supply.
 
The single best handling mod you can do is get good tires. After a good set of coilovers & not changing the ride hieght. Lowering hurts the suspension geometry & handling. Last suggestion is to up grade the rear anti-roll bar reducing understeer. Keep the OEM front bar. Make sure all your bushings are in good shape & the tire alignment is good & close to the nominal factory values. Polyurethane bushings help with predictability & response.
Thanks, what brand and model rear anti roll bar do you suggest?
 
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