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GVR-4 Uneven Vibration at Idle After New Parts

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mooserage

Supporting Member
28
30
Dec 28, 2006
Seattle, Washington
Hoping to make sure I'm looking in the right places to diagnose this issue, any suggestions appreciated.

Issue:
At warm idle the motor almost feels like it is stumbling. From the engine bay it sounds ok (no loud noises or vibrations), but the vibration in the cabin feels really rough. Even with the harder engine mounts, it's an uneven vibration in the cabin, so I think something is off. Unless 264s idle that hard? Above idle (not revving it over 3k at the moment and no boost) moving at low RPMs 1.5-2.5k it feels smooth.

Risk:
This is my first cam install and timing belt job, and while I took my time and triple checked everything it's very possible something was done incorrectly.

New parts added:
Timing belt/balance belt and all related components, used HKS 264 I/E cams (degreed), new ID1000 injectors (sat in box for 4 years?), used ECMLink with SD (reset calibration and followed setup steps), new fluidampr harmonic balancer, flywheel and clutch replaced, added front and rear torque solutions engine mounts (trans/timing are stock), rebuilt turbo

Based on what I have read here and elsewhere, I was going to check the following in order:
  1. Visually confirm cam gears are still aligned (skipped tooth possible)
  2. Triple confirm ignition timing at warm idle
  3. Turn off injectors one at a time to see if one cylinder has spark or injector issues
  4. Confirm balance shaft position with screwdriver method
  5. Confirm all timing marks still aligned (pull timing covers) and balance shaft marks aligned
  6. Check compression and inspect spark plugs
  7. Check intercooler piping for foreign objects (unlikely, but could've forgotten a rag)
  8. Remove some of the advance from the exhaust cam ( already confirmed clearance wouldn't be an issue with returning cam to 0°) since it was further from 0° than the intake
I'm trying to check the easy stuff first, but if there are any other things I should check, open to suggestions. Can also post a log if needed, but I'm sort of assuming this is mechanical.
 
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Thanks for the feedback, I've never felt what that might be like, so moved it up in my list of checks before I start pulling timing covers. I still have to move the car back to the garage, so going to check the 2 items while its running before checking the balance shaft. I remembered doing the rotate the oil pump gear and let it fall method from VFAQ and double checking it, but I did have trouble with the tensioner setting, so there is a chance I let it get out of phase while getting that right.
 
If you added Torque Solution mounts then those add some serious vibration too. My guess would be oil sprocket, as mentioned, and/or addition of the new mounts.
 
I’ve seen that method with letting the sprocket rotate or whatever, but the 50/50 chance of it being out of phase is the reason Mitsubishi put that bolt on the back of the block to check with a screwdriver and know for sure:thumb:
 
Update:
Thanks for all of the feedback from everyone. I think the main takeaway is lope-y cams, harder motor mounts, and an un-tuned idle made for a pretty rough idle at first. It is better after addressing some of these issue.

So, from my original list:
  1. Visually confirm cam gears are still aligned (skipped tooth possible) OK
  2. Triple confirm ignition timing at warm idle OK
  3. Turn off injectors one at a time to see if one cylinder has spark or injector issues Skipped
  4. Confirm balance shaft position with screwdriver method OK (Yay!)
  5. Confirm all timing marks still aligned (pull timing covers) and balance shaft marks aligned Skipped
  6. Check compression and inspect spark plugs Spark plugs OK, Compression 175, 176, 176, 182
  7. Check intercooler piping for foreign objects (unlikely, but could've forgotten a rag) Skipped
  8. Remove some of the advance from the intake (edit: originally said exhaust) cam ( already confirmed clearance wouldn't be an issue with returning cam to 0°) since it was further from 0° than the intake Skipped
I did go through and re-do the BISS, TPS and throttle plate stop (throttle closed sensor) to make sure that the idle was all correct, there were some changes to the depth of the throttle closed sensor. After that, started it up, got to full warm, went through the BISS setting procedure. Then cleaned up the idle fuel trims a bit and afterwards it would idle more steadily around 800 (target) with few fluctuations. It is still quite a bit of vibration in the cabin, but more even now.

I guess I'll just have to get used to it. I may try bumping the idle up after cleaning up the tune further.

Also, the compression seemed high for a 6 bolt, but I'm not complaining :idontknow:
 
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