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420A Turbo my 420A

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kaisrmaulo5

Probationary Member
1
0
May 21, 2020
berlin, Georgia
I have a 97 eclipse gs and I’m wanting to turbo it. Does anyone know exactly how much work would need to go into doing this? Any modifications that need to be made to make it work? I’ll be doing it myself along with my boyfriend Appvn
 
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There is plenty of information available on this site to answer all of your questions. Just be aware that this won't be a... Buy a $600 eBay kit and slap it on kind of thing. To do it right and have a reliable setup, it will cost some money.
 
$2500 is a good safe estimate for parts on a proper build, including the turbo kit itself, fuel system, exhaust, clutch and engine management. You'll need some fabrication skills to go with it, and it's a lot of work.
 
There are some kits out there with name brand turbos I THINK (this was a while ago I was doing research on this topic) but they are very costly. If you wanted to keep the price tag low you would need to fabricate a lot of the piping to get everything to fit. I like to look at it as a DIY turbo for a car that wasn't supposed to have a turbo but will certainly support it. I have read many people say the stock rods and pistons don't hold up well to boost. You will most likely want to get an ecu piggy back system like megasquirt to be able to tune.

I'm sure I forgot some essentials. Regardless the 420a is a very reliable platform especially if you turbo it the right way with quality parts and get a good tune.
 
I have a 97 eclipse gs and I’m wanting to turbo it. Does anyone know exactly how much work would need to go into doing this? Any modifications that need to be made to make it work? I’ll be doing it myself along with my boyfriend.
 
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There is tons of information on this subject--just do a quick search and you'll find it. These forums are for specific technical questions, so please feel free to post again if one comes up.
 
I have a 97 eclipse gs and I’m wanting to turbo it. Does anyone know exactly how much work would need to go into doing this? Any modifications that need to be made to make it work? I’ll be doing it myself along with my boyfriend. https://19216811.cam/
 
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to do it right with quality parts, for just the turbo setup, fuel system, and engine management, $4-5k
Then a set of eagle h-beam rods and some JE pistons with bearings will be in the $1000 range. Then you need to get machine work and gaskets, head bolts, fluids and all the other shit.
you can do it cheaper but you;ll just end up with a bunch of fuct up parts and nothing to drive.
 
I have a 97 eclipse gs and I’m wanting to turbo it. Does anyone know exactly how much work would need to go into doing this? Any modifications that need to be made to make it work? I’ll be doing it myself along with my boyfriend.
As the other replies have stated, its a pretty expensive venture without much reward, if you really want something Turbo use this car as your daily and find a GST or GSX if you can afford it, you will be much better off in the long run..
 
As the other replies have stated, its a pretty expensive venture without much reward, if you really want something Turbo use this car as your daily and find a GST or GSX if you can afford it, you will be much better off in the long run..

Stop. She didn't ask if she should sell her car and buy a turbo because of what you think. She asked about the amount of work needed to make the turbo happen. 4-5k doesn't necessarily have to be true either. You can still get a turbo kit set up with quality parts for about 2k (along with fuel), but will have to piece things together. You can go with full stand alone or I think people have used SAFCs in the past. Just a matter of doing research and doing the work yourself where you can. You don't have to "sell it and buy a turbo one". You don't necessarily have to rebuild it either. Keep it within a reasonable amount of boost with a good tune and you'll have a fun little car. The 420a can handle a little bit of boost without the need for forged internals (plenty of people out there did it and might still be doing it). Check out 2gnt.com for more a bit more specific information on turboing a 420a.
Just because somebody else would like to try to build up a different platform doesn't mean that they should be automatically discouraged.
 
I dont think he was discouraging but giving a insight as to whats involved , since we dont know the exactly whats involved, but some advice and other options.
 
Stop. She didn't ask if she should sell her car and buy a turbo because of what you think. She asked about the amount of work needed to make the turbo happen. 4-5k doesn't necessarily have to be true either. You can still get a turbo kit set up with quality parts for about 2k (along with fuel), but will have to piece things together. You can go with full stand alone or I think people have used SAFCs in the past. Just a matter of doing research and doing the work yourself where you can. You don't have to "sell it and buy a turbo one". You don't necessarily have to rebuild it either. Keep it within a reasonable amount of boost with a good tune and you'll have a fun little car. The 420a can handle a little bit of boost without the need for forged internals (plenty of people out there did it and might still be doing it). Check out 2gnt.com for more a bit more specific information on turboing a 420a.
Just because somebody else would like to try to build up a different platform doesn't mean that they should be automatically discouraged.

Calm down skippy, I am just telling the OP to use common sense, the 420A is a terrible engine and the cost to Turbo is not worth it when considering the end result.. I in no way will nor have I discouraged anybody from building whatever the hell a person wants as long as they have the skills and deep pockets to do so.. It was merely a different suggestion on the best way to approach a 2G if you are looking to go Turbo, which is always the 4G63 as there is no substitute..
 
Looks like my brutally honest post #2 was deleted, based on over 20 years of experience in the DSM platform and a business of more than a decade serving.

Good luck with your project, you will want to do much more research and budgeting to consider before attempting this modification.
 
If the case that is trying to be made is to build a better platform, what about suggesting a different platform that is better supported,newer, or not on its way out? It is fine to inform her that there are other options out there as far as building your car is concerned, but just flat out saying "sell it and buy a different one" is not the right answer. There are plenty of people out there with turbo 420a and with great results. It won't be an easy project, but there is plenty of support out there to complete it.
 
Guys, just a friendly reminder that we have a rule about no "sell it and get a 4G63" responses in this forum. The rule is stickied to the top of the forum for your convenience.

@angoedaly48, you'll probably get more helpful replies if you post a more specific question. Lots of people have turbocharged their 420A DSM's at this point. There are tons of posts on the subject, and even a few guides and walk-throughs.
 
I don't think anyone is saying sell your 420a and buy a turbod car.
Keep the 420a but don't waste the money turboing it.
I wish thats what people would would have told me 20 years ago before i spent alot of money. Money that i could have used to buy a GST, instead i bought disappointment
 
Looks like my brutally honest post #2 was deleted, based on over 20 years of experience in the DSM platform and a business of more than a decade serving.

Good luck with your project, you will want to do much more research and budgeting to consider before attempting this modification.
Don't take it personal Tim, the mod was just upholding the rule of this particular sub-forum.

To the original poster:

It is becoming more challenging to do a proper turbo 420A DSM turbo build these days, if nothing else just due to the lack of parts out there for the platform. Nobody is making kits (you might be able to find some on eBay), let alone the supporting parts to do this project. It's likely going to require a great deal of technical experience and ability - fabrication skills would help a lot. Basically, if you haven't done a turbo kit on a non-turbo car before, or another type of technical build, this might be a daunting project. But if you're up for it, and you have a good amount of disposable cash to do it, by all means go for it. Most people on this site (and in the DSM community) have found it to be easier, more cost effective, and have usually gotten better results when starting off with the 4G63 platform. Doesn't mean you should follow that path, it's just the more popular path. Part of the spirit of being a DSMer is taking a different path and being different. Building a 420A will just be taking that spirit a step further.
 
Sorry Tim--like Chris said, it's nothing personal, I'm just trying to stick to a rule we've had in this sub-forum for a long time. We used to have people come here and ask about how to do something, and the threads would often devolve into an argument about if it should be done at all.

@angoedaly48, here's one of my favorite guides to turbocharging a 420A DSM. It was written a long, long time ago, but the basic principles still apply.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-build-a-420a-stage-2-turbo-kit-for-under-1000.181134/

If I were tackling this project today, I would still reference that guide for inspiration. Here's the parts list from the guide (with my own notes in blue). Some things like FMU's and FCD's have gotten a little harder to find, but I still think this can all be done for a couple thousand dollars or less if you're savvy.
  • Garrett T3 turbo: $100 - Ebay; Don't get the cheapest turbo you find on eBay, get a genuine unit from a reputable manufacturer. Buy used if you have to. Something with a T3 flange will probably be easiest to work with.
  • 2g smic: free(i got it from my friends bro); Sure, look for a used SMIC, or a used FMIC. Hahn Racecraft used to make a gorgeous FMIC specifically for DSM's, but I don't think they do anymore, so whatever you find, you'll have to do a little work to mount it on your car.
  • Exhaust Manifold; Don't make a manifold. There are tons of decent cast manifolds on eBay for around $100 these days.
  • Crushed 1st Gen BOV: $40 - Ebay; I used a 1g BOV in my car too. Excellent choice.
  • Down pipe: 2.5" mandrel U-bend: $15; You could make your own downpipe if you can weld, or you can buy a T3 exhaust flange and take your car to most any exhaust shop, which should be able to fabricate a simple downpipe for you. I wouldn't expect it to cost much more than $100-150.
  • 6' of 2" intercooler piping: $24 - Napa; Unless you have a shop nearby that can make this for you, just buy a generic aluminum tubing kit on eBay and piece it together yourself. These are cheap and widely available these days. The diameter of the tubes will need to be close to the diameters of the intercooler inlet/outlet and throttle body, though adapter couplers do exist.
  • 4 couplers: $15 - Home Depot plumbing section; Don't buy these, just get silicone couplers from eBay. If you buy a tubing kit, it might include these.
  • Walbro 255 lph HP fuel pump: $106; You'll need this.
  • Vortech 12:1 FMU: $90 - Ebay; This is probably the simplest way to handle fuel control.
  • Fuel hose/ Vaccume hose: $30 - autozone/carquest; Any hoses/lines will do.
  • Hose clamps of multiple sizes... many many hose clamps: $20; Get cheap host clamps from Home Depot or decent T-bolt clamps from eBay.
  • Autometer boost gauge: $50; Lots of gauge options to choose from these days, just make sure you have some way to read boost.
  • Autometer Gauge pod: $30; Mount the gauge however you like.
  • FCD: $20 - 2gnt.com member; Perhaps a little harder to find, but they're out there. There's a used HKS FCD on eBay right now for $75.
  • Nuts, Bolts, and Washers: About $10 - Home depot, Ace, any hardware store; Yep, any hardware store will suffice.
  • Oil Line kit: $70 - Ebay(you could do it for much cheaper, ill explain later); You can actually use some standard brass plumbing fittings here, but keep in mind that flare fittings and -AN fittings are not compatible. If you join the two, they will leak. Buy what you can at Home Depot and get any -AN fittings online.
  • Parts to modify wastegate: $6 - Home depot; Chris, the author of the guide, used a turbocharger with an internal wastegate. All of the cast manifolds on eBay have flanges for external wastegates, so I would get a turbo without a wastegate. I'm not familiar with all the brands of wastegate manufacturer anymore, but look for a used 38mm external wastegate (I used to have a TiAL). These usually have interchangeable springs, so you don't have to modify them to set the pressure at which they open. Pick up a flange while you're at it and bring it to the exhaust shop to make you a dump tube.
 
  • Fuel hose/ Vaccume hose: $30 - autozone/carquest; Any hoses/lines will do.
any hoses seeing high pressure fuel (any between the FMU and stock regulator or if using a SFMU, between the fuel rail and SFMU) need to be
fuel injection hose with a SAE J30R9 rating

  • Nuts, Bolts, and Washers: About $10 - Home depot, Ace, any hardware store; Yep, any hardware store will suffice.
using low grade bolts on the manifold, turbo and down pipe is asking for trouble.

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you can get away with using a cheap ebay cast manifold and intercooler setup.
DONT use a one of the ebay knockoff wastegates or blow off valves.
The wastegates are famous for failing causing engines to grenade.
The blow off valves are shit, you will get compressor surge using them, maybe not at first but it will happen.
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if the inlet and outlet size aren't an issue, the stock 1g intercooler will bolt up. you just need to bend up this tab.
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with stock injectors, 255 hp fuel pump (without rewire) and a 12:1 FMU , at 5 psi your pretty much at the limit of the fuel system.

stock fuel pressure is something like 43-45psi + 60 psi from the FMU is roughly 105 psi.
the stock injectors are rated for 100 psi max.

stock hp is 140 at the flywheel, avg. gain is 10hp per 1psi = 190hp (which should be somewhere around 170-175 hp at the wheels)
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any hoses seeing high pressure fuel (any between the FMU and stock regulator or if using a SFMU, between the fuel rail and SFMU) need to be
fuel injection hose with a SAE J30R9 rating
Agreed. I didn't mean literally any hose, I meant any fuel injection hose (and any vacuum hose, etc.). It doesn't need to be a particular model or from a particular source.

using low grade bolts on the manifold, turbo and down pipe is asking for trouble.
Again, agreed. I was thinking of miscellaneous hardware for mounting things like the FMU, etc. when I wrote that. I do not advise using run of the mill bolts for exhaust components.
 
I have a 97 eclipse gs and I’m wanting to turbo it. Does anyone know exactly how much work would need to go into doing this? Any modifications that need to be made to make it work? I’ll be doing it myself along with my boyfriend.
 
What boost level are you looking to run? What is your budget? You can run 8psi or less on the stock internals, but any more than that and you're looking at a full rebuild. And I will advise staying away from the kits on Ebay and Amazon. Unless you want to destroy your engine.
 
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