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95 gsx won’t start

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#95GS-EX

Proven Member
69
49
Feb 9, 2021
Modesto, California
hey guys I have a 1995 eclipse gsx. I recently purchased the car off a guy who was doing a rebuild and gave up. I believe it might have a 6 bolt swap because the car has a cam angle sensor but it also has a cam position sensor on the side where the timing belt is. I purchased the harness that hooks up the cam angle sensor to the factory engine harness but now I have a cam position sensor that is unplugged. What should I do. Also I’m having an issue with the car not starting the guy that rebuilt the motor never started it. The car has a new starter and battery but for some reason the starter isn’t getting enough voltage to turn the flywheel. What can I be guys please help me I want to hear the car run!
 
Lots to unpack here bud.
First off why don't you get yourself familiar with what a 6bolt swap is so you can determine what is wrong and what is right.
Here is a easy to read tech article on it that also explains cas wiring:
https://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1gina2g.pdf

Your no-start could be related to what the owner has done, so you need to verify the basics.
You have a good ground from block to firewall? Get a multimeter and measure voltages from the power lead on the starter to the ground and make sure you have a good battery.

Also verify the engine isn't seized up. Pop the spark plugs out and spin the crank using a 1/2" ratchet clockwise to make sure it spins freely. You should probably have done this before buying the car btw..

There's a reason he gave up- inadequacy, impatience, or ignorance. None of which bode well for the guy who buys it next. You got to start from scratch and verify everything is done correctly.

Good luck.
 
hey guys I have a 1995 eclipse gsx I believe it might have a 6 bolt swap because the car has a cam angle sensor but it also has a cam position sensor on the side where the timing belt is.

I doubt its a 6 bolt. The only way it could be a 6 bolt is if it a 95-96 2g head on it.


Your most likely gonna have a 95 or 96, 7 bolt engine from another car,
or
its your original head on a used or rebuilt bottom end.

just look at the oil pan like
1990TSIAWDTALON
suggested in your other post
 
okay guys so I looked at the engine and I'm sure its a 7 bolt now. however I'm still thrown off because the car has a cam angle sensor on the head is this possible? I purchased the harness for it sold on ebay for cam angle sensor. CAS DSM 91-94 Adapter Harness in 95-96 Eclipse 4G63 Cam Angle Sensor 6 Bolt Swap. https://www.ebay.com/itm/CAS-DSM-91...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I don't know what's wrong but the car starter is not spinning I have tried 3 different new starters and nothing the starter just makes a sound like it has a dead battery but its also brand new. what am I doing wrong, what am I missing?
 
the 1g CAS bolts up to the 2g head.

when you say the previous owner was doing a rebuild, does that mean a rebuild of the engine or the car or both?

make sure you have connected the a-34 connector.
see HERE

screenshot_20200503-132743_onedrive-jpg.598890
 
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I don't know what's wrong but the car starter is not spinning I have tried 3 different new starters and nothing the starter just makes a sound like it has a dead battery but its also brand new. what am I doing wrong, what am I missing?

"the starter just makes a sound like it has a dead battery but it's also brand new."
By this do you mean that you just hear a click from somewhere, but no whir? Nothing spins?

If that is what yours is doing, it is like what I had intermittently on my 1g for a long time.
I changed lots of things before finally solving it.

In the end, it turned out the worst problem I had was the ignition switch itself, which worked fine on acc and run, but was crappy in the "start" position.
That is why I have a push button start now. A 50 amp rated momentary push button switch in the center stack. This switch has to take all the current that is needed to energize the solenoid on the starter. That's somewhere in the 20 to 30 amps range.

But other things I did along the way were:
I jumpered the starter relay socket that is in the cabin, under the dash (on a 1g). That does 2 things, as I remember. For one thing it bypasses the no-start switch that is on the clutch pedal. I think. I haven't had my 2nd cup of coffee yet so I might not be running on all cylinders. Also of course it gets rid of the starter relay (replacing it with a simple wire). So if you had anything wrong with either that clutch switch or the relay, those things are gone now.

And I started using better battery cable clamps on the battery terminals. Big beefy ones that don't have any fricking paint on them and they have 4 quarter inch bolts for attaching all your cables, and I'm using all 4 of those on each one.

How well this stuff translates to 2g I don't know.
 
"the starter just makes a sound like it has a dead battery but it's also brand new."
By this do you mean that you just hear a click from somewhere, but no whir? Nothing spins?

If that is what yours is doing, it is like what I had intermittently on my 1g for a long time.
I changed lots of things before finally solving it.

In the end, it turned out the worst problem I had was the ignition switch itself, which worked fine on acc and run, but was crappy in the "start" position.
That is why I have a push button start now. A 50 amp rated momentary push button switch in the center stack. This switch has to take all the current that is needed to energize the solenoid on the starter. That's somewhere in the 20 to 30 amps range.

But other things I did along the way were:
I jumpered the starter relay socket that is in the cabin, under the dash (on a 1g). That does 2 things, as I remember. For one thing it bypasses the no-start switch that is on the clutch pedal. I think. I haven't had my 2nd cup of coffee yet so I might not be running on all cylinders. Also of course it gets rid of the starter relay (replacing it with a simple wire). So if you had anything wrong with either that clutch switch or the relay, those things are gone now.

And I started using better battery cable clamps on the battery terminals. Big beefy ones that don't have any fricking paint on them and they have 4 quarter inch bolts for attaching all your cables, and I'm using all 4 of those on each one.

How well this stuff translates to 2g I don't know.

I have also replaced the ignition switch because I was told it could be that aswell
 
have you check to see if the engine turns? use a ratchet on the crank bolt to turn it.

also have you checked the grounds?
you have the one on tranny, right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
have you check to see if the engine turns? use a ratchet on the crank bolt to turn it.

also have you checked the grounds?
you have the one on tranny, right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
[
have you check to see if the engine turns? use a ratchet on the crank bolt to turn it.

also have you checked the grounds?
you have the one on tranny, right?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

yup engine turns like butter, the starter is the issue here all wires seem to be connected.
 
the starter does not spin even when its outside of the car and I have already returned two different starters to the store thinking that was the problem
 
the starter is out of the car so I can test it properly and the starter shaft pops out when I hit the ignition but it wont spin

Wait, you have the starter out of the car, but you are still using the ignition switch to fire it?
You need to explain your test setup a little better.
Normally if you had the starter out of the car and on the work bench, you would just have the starter, a battery, some wires, and probably not any switches.

Similar setup question about the prior post where you say voltage goes down to 4 or 5 volts. Was that when the starter was still in the car?
 
Wait, you have the starter out of the car, but you are still using the ignition switch to fire it?
You need to explain your test setup a little better.
Normally if you had the starter out of the car and on the work bench, you would just have the starter, a battery, some wires, and probably not any switches.

Similar setup question about the prior post where you say voltage goes down to 4 or 5 volts. Was that when the starter was still in the car?
okay the starter is hooked up to the car but not bolted in to the flywheel because i wanted to test it. when i hit the ignition the starter only pops out but wont spin that seems to be the issue.
 
i can't see it being anything other than a bad connection, a bad power or ground cable, or the starter.
you could check the resistance of the power and ground cables. i have seen ones that didn't seem too bad until you remove the insulation. The cables can wick up water and corrode inside pretty bad. You should be reading 0.0 - 0.1 ohms on each cable.
if the starter is a re manufactured one, you might wanna return it and get a new one as in not remanned. napa shows one for $121
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NNE4N6402?ref=image
 
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Good, that's easy!
I like redundancy when it comes to grounds.
So I have, instead of just one cable going to 1 starter bolt, I have 2 cables, one to each starter bolt.
Then for battery neg to firewall, also 2 cables.
That's how I manage to use all 4 positions on my neg battery clamp.
Then of course there is the cable from firewall to intake manifold, which I imagine the 2g has. 1g does.
Might be a little overkill, but I like it.
 
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