It's nice to quickly lift or lower the trans with an impact but I prefer to switch to a ratchet to fine-tune the positioning. When I used only an impact I had the trans hanging by its input shaft briefly which is obviously not optimal. Now if only someone made a floor jack that can be powered with an impact (and I don't mean the hack with a scissor jack but a real floor jack).

Yes I switched to a ratchet to fine tune it also once I was close.

Resolved. It took me longer than planned just working a handful of hours each week but I
finally removed my transmission.
The issue was a failure of the release or throw out bearing which actually broke almost In half on the back side of the bearing side where the release fork made contact with the TOB. I will see if I can get a good picture (to add below) to show the failure.
I will also add I took the advice from above and purchased the harbor freight transmission jack and it greatly improved my confidence of doing the removal by myself. Thanks to all who took the time to offer help and advice.

Good to hear. If you haven't already replaced the bad TOB, make sure to get an OEM or NSK, i.e. a high-quality one with a resin inner sleeve. And make sure that all the associated parts are ok, e.g. fork, fulcrum, pressure plate, etc.

Appreciate that. I’m going OEM TOB with ACT 2100 kit from ExtremePSI. Also sitting at 199,9xx miles on the car, I’m just going to replace everything - pivot ball release, fork, Jesus clip, etc. May Also replace master and slave for extra piece of mind.
Also I just created a new post, my next new issue is deciding between resurfacing the OEM flywheel or getting a new friction surface for a used Fidanza flywheel as I have both in my possession currently. Decisions, decisions.

Same here, I'm gradually replacing everything you mentioned, some because they're shot or nearly there, others as preventative maintenance. Also have to make similar flywheel decision as you.

Also make sure you have the TO bearing clip on properly: https://www.dsmtuners.com/attachments/to-bearing-oem-and-clip-jpg.87967/

Thanks for the image. It took me over 10 minutes to figure out the correct way to do it!

Btw is it important to always replace it, not so much so it works during installation as to avoid it breaking and wreaking havoc down the line?

No you don't need to always replace it.

You need to see if you can figure out why the TOB broke. Overheated? Misadjuated master causing pressure? Check the nose on the bellhousing for damage

pauleyman said:

You need to see if you can figure out why the TOB broke. Overheated? Misadjuated master causing pressure? Check the nose on the bellhousing for damage

Click to expand...

That’s a great point - I did not think about. I was going to chalk it up to age, mileage, previous owner, etc.. But now I’ll review it to see what can be learned. Also what would I be looking for re nose on the bellhousing? Thanks!

Here are a couple pics of the back or fork touching side of the broken throw out or release bearing. Again I believe this was causing my problem - of not being able to put the car in gear unless the engine was off.

1greyawdtsi said:

That’s a great point - I did not think about. I was going to chalk it up to age, mileage, previous owner, etc.. But now I’ll review it to see what can be learned. Also what would I be looking for re nose on the bellhousing? Thanks!

Click to expand...

Look for scoring, cracks etc. That bearing looks like it's had pressure on it constantly. Make sure your hydraulics are releasing. You can check this now with trans out.

The nose on the housing that the tob rides on can become seriously worn and the tob may end up sitting sloppy on it. This is an issue with fwd cars but AWD trannys have the nose made out of SS and not such a problem as far as I know.

I just had the OEM 7 bolt flywheel resurfaced for my new ACT 2100 street disc and pressure plate. My machine shop couldn’t show me after the flywheel resurface but they said the step height on the flywheel I brought in was wildly out of spec for the previous owners ACT 2100 clutch kit set up.
Hopefully with proper step height, OEM release bearing / TOB, new OEM fork, pivot ball, jesus clip, proper clutch bleeding, adjustment and working hydraulics - I should be good.
Now I need to reinstall transmission and see where the fork sits in fork hole, decide if a shim is needed and decide if I’m going to purchase and instal a dowel in the missing crank to flywheel location. I’m thinking I will add that dowel (was not there upon removal) I just need to do some more research on pros and cons of adding the dowel.

You want the dowels in there so it’s aligns properly. I’d replace the rear main seal too since you’re in there.