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2G Exhaust housing...bummed.

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SwiftKidGSX

15+ Year Contributor
100
7
Jul 11, 2003
Cerritos, California
I started installing the turbo onto the exhaust manifold, and noticed the bolts weren't going any further. So I started to extract them and they were impossible to remove. I didn't use any anti-seize because I NEVER had to before but could this been avoided or was there something else in play here.

These bolt are STM ARP Stainless Turbo to Manifold Bolt Kit for DSM FP Cast Manifold

The threads on the bolts are ruined and half of the thread of on the exhaust housing are gone.

What should I do here?

Thanks guys!

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- such a bummer -
Grab your gauges and start measuring your thread pitch.

I'm curious - Why stainless on these? SS seems opposite material desired in a bolt stretch prone application, or am I wrong?
 
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Highly recommend sticking to the OE bolts and conical washers for this application. ARP fasteners work well in many areas, but not this one. Nickel-based anti-sieze is my go-to for exhaust components.
 
I haven't had the best luck with arp bolts for the manifold to turbo. I've had better luck running the oem bolts. They seemed to hold up to the heat better and didn't seize up. The arp ones I used messed up some threads on a turbine housing simply removing them and I used high temp anti seize.
 
Well now that we have beaten the man down - Hopefully someone can suggest what to do about saving the manifold...

Giving advice doesn't constitute beating someone down. You can repair the threads, or take the turbine housing to a machine shop to repair the threads. Another option is to drill out the holes a little larger and run longer bolts with nuts.
 
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I have ran into this issue as well when trying to bolt a new turbo T25 to T4 flange with new bolts (it sucks), looks like you tried a SAE threaded bolt in a Metric thread, result = stripped it right down, so find a slightly bigger drill bit that can go thru stainless steel, drill them out, find 4, grade 8 bolts to match drill bit used or use the stainless steel ones you got anti-seize is required for stainless steel to prevent galling while installing bolts
the OEM exhaust bolts are 12 x 1.25mm/1.50mm (I cant remember exactly) but your local auto parts store will have the right bolt's and I went with 3in length 3/8 bolt to protrude about a 1 inch and just did a lock washer and nut on each end and it has been holding just fine
 

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- such a bummer -
Grab your gauges and start measuring your thread pitch.

I'm curious - Why stainless on these? SS seems opposite material desired in a bolt stretch prone application, or am I wrong?
stainless steel bolts are a superior metal for heat application (example Exhaust) and strength it does not stretch under repeated stress, so you get no bolt fatigue
 
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I don't have any experience with Time-sert. I'm having the same issue as the OP. Can anyone confirm that a TS can handle the heat from a turbine housing? I guess you would need to counterbore the installation a little bit if using a TS so that the insert can sit inside the counterbore to make sure that the little step in the TS doesn't mess with the gasket mating surface?
 
Those ARP turbo bolts are god-awful...I wish people would quit buying them. Standard hardware store 8.8 stuff for $1 is an upgrade because at least you can get them out...these things eat housings, rarely last beyond one use, and god forbid they break or you'll have better than an hour in trying to drill one out if it's not in a blind hole.

I'm going to start studding all eight turbo flange mounting points.
 
Take it to machine shop to fix and use OEM bolts. The end.

This is the route I'm taking, taking it to RRE tomorrow since I'm going there tomorrow anyways. :thumb: Will see what happens tomorrow.

I have ran into this issue as well when trying to bolt a new turbo T25 to T4 flange with new bolts (it sucks), looks like you tried a SAE threaded bolt in a Metric thread, result = stripped it right down, so find a slightly bigger drill bit that can go thru stainless steel, drill them out, find 4, grade 8 bolts to match drill bit used or use the stainless steel ones you got anti-seize is required for stainless steel to prevent galling while installing bolts
the OEM exhaust bolts are 12 x 1.25mm/1.50mm (I cant remember exactly) but your local auto parts store will have the right bolt's and I went with 3in length 3/8 bolt to protrude about a 1 inch and just did a lock washer and nut on each end and it has been holding just fine

They are 1.25MM

Those ARP turbo bolts are god-awful...I wish people would quit buying them. Standard hardware store 8.8 stuff for $1 is an upgrade because at least you can get them out...these things eat housings, rarely last beyond one use, and god forbid they break or you'll have better than an hour in trying to drill one out if it's not in a blind hole.

I'm going to start studding all eight turbo flange mounting points.

Wish I knew I this...I bought them for the flashy look. Ohhh well. :banghead:
 
Stainless steel is a poor material for any fastener which needs high clamping forces. It is soft & galls when threaded to steel (ferrous metals). They do work fairly well with dissimilar material like aluminum.
 
Stainless steel is a poor material for any fastener which needs high clamping forces. It is soft & galls when threaded to steel (ferrous metals). They do work fairly well with dissimilar material like aluminum.

In this particular application, the ARP black oxide bolts perform poorly here as well. Just to add to your response for the SS offerings.
 
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