The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

2G Auto AWD Trans Issues, recommendations and ideas

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

hellraisin'

Proven Member
69
7
Apr 5, 2016
Ozarks, Missouri
To put this as simply as possible. A few months ago the VSS stopped working and would dip erratically on decel and pick back up immediately when getting back on the throttle. I changed the VSS with a known good one and replaced the gear/shaft with a new OEM component even though it wasn't needed. This did not help the issue. Obviously it displayed a code for VSS.

Two weeks ago I changed the end clutches with a kit from IPT. I drove the car home that night from a friends shop where we did the work. 100 miles. And drove it a couple times after that without a single issue.

A week ago I removed the pan to change the filter and fluid. I've always used Mopar ATF+4.

In the pan I find two pieces of steel that I'm almost positive are pieces to a steel clutch. Two pieces appear to be folded in half and are the size of a pea. There is not a lot of other material. The fluid was bright and smelled fresh as I changed it 10k miles ago.

The filter was not clogged and I found very little small debris.

I'm under the impression that whatever has broken inside the trans has been broken for some time. I replaced the fluid knowing it had suffered catastrophically. Upon installing the new fluid I test drove the vehicle and initially it drove just as it did before. However once coming to a stop the vehicle stalled and was bogged down similar to a manual transmission without a clutch. I am quite sure that the torque converter is locked up somehow. I am not a transmission mechanic but I'm quite certain that this is whats happening. When cold the transmission slips. After a minute of warming up it goes into gear as normal. Once mildly warm it drives great in all gears. After 15 minutes the converter locks up. Let it cool down a couple hours and it will do it all over again.

I am aware that a replacement transmission is in order. However being as that there are none available anywhere and I've emailed every business parting out DSM's to no avail I need assistance on looking into my options by those with more knowledge than I.

IPT is an obvious choice however $3000 plus a converter is quite steep. I'm only on a T28 @ 16psi.

How trashed is the trans? What is likely to have failed? The end clutch did not fail as I've checked. The issue(s) were pre-existent to the end clutch replacement. I have the time and resources to rebuild a transmission. This is appealing as I can see spending $1500-$2000. But as for the failure(s) I don't know what to expect.

Would a manual swap be more economical? I really have no preference.

I know this is long winded as I've been chasing this issue for some time. Thanks in advance.
 
You could always change out the old TCU for a ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1. It can ignore VSS failures, read and even clear codes and may be what is going on in your trans. Those old TCU's do go bad and I think you are stuck in "limp" mode. Clearing the codes will take it back out of "limp" but I am not sure how to clear them without a transmission code checker. Maybe unhooking the battery for a half hour and then see if it seems "normal" at least for a little while. I am trying to figure out just exactly what is going on in yours.
 
You could always change out the old TCU for a ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1. It can ignore VSS failures, read and even clear codes and may be what is going on in your trans. Those old TCU's do go bad and I think you are stuck in "limp" mode. Clearing the codes will take it back out of "limp" but I am not sure how to clear them without a transmission code checker. Maybe unhooking the battery for a half hour and then see if it seems "normal" at least for a little while. I am trying to figure out just exactly what is going on in yours.


That's good news and worth a try as the TCU case is in poor shape and obviously not original to the car. That might speak for it's overall condition. I inspected the board and components and it was ok but that was 6 months ago.

I really appreciate your help. I will pick up a 100.1 as I was wanting a shift box anyway.

I see the 100.1 has been replaced by the Smart 150.

I tried again after leaving the battery disconnected for 30+ minutes. The car won't move until warming up for about a minute and a half. After that it moves and has all gears. It shifts all on it's own but quicker than it should. It's just wonky in it's shift selecting. Not as it used to be. After about 3 minutes of driving this time is started the stalling at a stop thing. It will downshift on it's own when coming to a stop. But even with the shifter in 1st gear it bogs and dies coming to a stop.
 
Last edited:
Default mode, as if the transmission was seeing NO solenoid activity, should give you Park, Reverse, Neutral and 3rd gear. If it won't even go in reverse at 1st startup, they may be some other underlying conditions. Just FYI.
I see it is being replaced now. Well thats a good thing. I hand built shift maps when they 1st came out because they weren't pre-programmed. Lol
 
It will go into any gear at first start up. But it takes 3000+rpm to move the vehicle. After a minute or so it moves as normal and a few minutes later it's like the torque converter is always locked. It has every gear including 4th. But the torque converter is always locked after fully warm. All the time in 3rd and 4th once warm. Up shift or down shift, cruise etc. Even when stopping and it every gear once warm.

I wish I was better at describing it.

Yeah and it's in pre-order for $100 less it looks like.
 
What does the fluid look and smell like and is it up to full when warm, idling in Neutral?
 
The fluid looks and smells good. Since I pulled the pan and refilled with Mopar ATF+4 I have checked and inspected the fluid level and quality numerous times. Making sure it's exactly right. Also, when draining I go quart by quart. As to be certain to put in exactly what I took out. The level is correct cold and hot. But, I will check once more tomorrow.
 
Just had to ask.
 
Located a replacement trans, converter and TCU today.

The individual I got the stuff from has an awesome 1g with a chute. He told me I likely messed it up not running full line pressure and I was abusing it pretty hard.

It was worth meeting a great local dude and seeing a 9.xx second DSM. He hooked me up at an awesome price too and even helped me load it.
 
...and I was abusing it pretty hard.

How about full disclosure from the beginning next time? THIS is how rumors get started for the newbies that “automatics aren’t any good”; “automatics can’t take the power”; etc.

For anyone who doesn’t read more than the first few posts, they’ll think the transmission just randomly failed. ANY part on any car can fail when abused, and AWD adds extra driveline forces.

Our tired trans was professionally rebuilt, with new solenoids, clutches, and a couple splined parts, for $1200, so it doesn’t have to be expensive. ‘Tuners members need to know this.

High trans fluid temps maim automatics pretty quickly. We noticed trans temps were on the high side after high speed driving the twisties (in Mexico), so we added a trans cooler, and it helped bring the temps back down.

To improve shifting response, we asked Dave Katz to put a custom program chip in our TCU. Although that improved the shifts and pressures, we are installing a Forced Four 150 shift box, in parallel, to be able to have more control over the shift timing, etc., when wanted. We’ll do documentation and a write up this spring.

Automatics in DSMs can be responsive and tough. Just ask the drag racers here. Unfortunately, many autos get neglected until they act up.

OP, glad you found another trans. Rebuild at least one of the two you have, so you know what you’ve got underneath you.

Members would enjoy hearing about your experiences with the Forced Four when you get it installed.
 
$1200 is what it cost me also. :thumb:
$600 in parts, $600 in labor. The autos ARE strong units as long as all specs are correct!
 
DogWhistle, I was unaware that a T28 @ 16ish pounds of boost without full line pressure was "abusing it pretty hard". Apparently, and I just learned this (or was told) that anything much above stock power levels without full line pressure can cause trans damage.

I figured I would post an update and let the previous person who shared info with me know that I have a plan in action and I didn't want to take up anymore of his or anyone else's time with this. Getting into detail on "abuse" or "pretty hard abuse" and what it entails and is defined by was not in my intentions. Apparently I should have went into greater detail. However I assumed closing the conversation was the primary point I expressed.

Anything beyond your first statement in regards to me aiding in the spread of false information I didn't read. Anything else, I didn't know how important full line pressure was. My mistake. And I paid for it. Literally. Beyond that, I don't know. Your knowledge would've been welcomed had you shared it prior to a solution being arranged. Your words aren't what set me off it's your timing. You chose to come in and bash me and make an example of me so to speak AFTER I found a solution. So you aren't here to help. If this response seems exaggerated or stepping over the line it was made with this in mind. You showed up to a house party a day late with the intent of crashing it while the guests were long gone and the home owner was getting ready for work. Enough said.

Ok, that's enough internet forums for 2021.

Thanks 1990TSIAWDTALON. I appreciate your time. And I thought the price was fair myself.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top