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another car brand again...nissan this time

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pauleyman

DSM Wiseman
9,298
3,541
Nov 19, 2011
oklahoma city, Oklahoma
Nissan forums are horrible. I'm working on a 2014 nissan altima. No start (occasional stumble) but still doesn't start. Fuel pump has power at the pump connector. Car starts on starting fluid so spark is fine. Does anybody know if cam/crank sensor take spark out? If so I can rule these out. I don't have a fuel pressure tester to definitively say it's that but I suspect so. I couldn't hear it. I am puzzled why the car tried to fire slightly. It did sit for a day before it did that. Every other start except that first one it doens't do anything but crank. Thoughts anybody?
 
I have an 03 with a 2.5. Only real issue I’ve had with the car are coils and cam sensors. These issues are pretty common but they never caused a crank no start. The older 2.5s have 2 cam sensors and I think the newer 2.5s have 3. Sorry I don’t have more for you.

IIRC they’re all the same sensors. If that’s the case in yours, try switching them around.
 
Car starts and run on ether so I don't think that's it. I am assuming those sensors would take spark out.
 
Any codes? Found this and ecu does need cam sensor signal to fire injectors. Try tapping on it LOL

The crank sensor was a B#%^h. It’s at the back of the block and hard to get to without a lift but doable.

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A crank sensor will DEFINITELY take out the spark,, I would say rule that out, possibly the cam sensor or fuel pump, maybe pull the pump and see if it works on the bench.
 
Any codes? Found this and ecu does need cam sensor signal to fire injectors. Try tapping on it LOL

The crank sensor was a B#%^h. It’s at the back of the block and hard to get to without a lift but doable.

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The only code was p0171 lean in bank 1. The ecu was trying to dump fuel with high fuel trims which further supports fuel pump.
 
Have :hmm: you:
I always try to apply the :ohdamn: KISS (Keep it Simple Stupid) diagnostic method when working :banghead: :idontknow:on drivability :confused: issues.
1) bumped the fuel tank with rubber mallet, creating vibration that might unstick worn pump or jar poor connection, etc. etc.
2) Verified Power sources or checked for power @ Pump connecter to make sure 12v power available?
3) Verify fuel Quality = No H2O, trash, diesel contaminated or nasty fuel (One of the most common causes for tow in, no start, when I worked as Toyota MDT)
4) Quantity = Volume/flow test from outlet to rail connection after PSI test?
5) Filter blockage, Quality of filtration?
 
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Have :hmm: you:
1) bumped the fuel tank with rubber mallet, creating vibration that might unstick worn pump or jar poor connection, etc. etc.
2) Verified Power sources or checked for power @ Pump connecter to make sure 12v power available?
3) Verify fuel Quality = No H2O, trash, diesel contaminated or nasty fuel (One of the most common causes for tow in, no start, when I worked as Toyota MDT)
4) Quantity = Volume/flow test from outlet to rail connection after PSI test?
5) Filter blockage, Quality of filtration?
1. no but thats a good idea.
2. yes I backprobed the tank connection for 12v
3. no. If I'm taking the pump out I"m having a new one ready. If it's not needed I will return it.
4. No. I will at least disconnect the hose and see what it does. I dont' have a test kit and the loaners don't look complete.
5. No way to verify. It's in tank. I may just drop a new unit in anyway as they aren't super expensive.
I wish I had better diagnostic equipment, a scope etc and I could see what's happening for sure without smelling like gas.
 
I have had customers leave gas cap off for many days, allowing rain water (Spring time of year) into tank, and getting pushed up to injector rail. I could release pressure at valve and see H2O.
That car also only had filter in fuel tank and none in line externally.

If this car has Schrader valve test port on rail, you might also be able to determine contamination and presence of some form of fuel pressure there, but I Ass-u-me :confused: this car doesn't?

Keep us posted on findings.
 
You are correct. No test port. The cheapo fuel test kits for rental never seen to have enough stuff for any car I want to test. I'm not investing 300$ in a good kit considering I would almost never use it. I can come up with something but I hate hacking together stuff for a test.
Just because it's easy I'll test an injector but like I said everything I've done so far points to fuel pump. For some dumb reason I couldn't get an injector clip off. It was getting cold and I said screw it. I'll take another look and get a noid light. I want to make sure what little the car ran was actually on an injector and not a possible leaking injector as it only did it once.
 
Paul, this may have absolutely nothing to do with yours, but our 1999 Infinity Q30 (Nissan product) had a issue with the key not being recognized by the ECU and would not let the car start. It has been a couple years so I can't remember if it rolled over but wouldn't fire up or if it would not roll over. It was the KEY. It didn't match something in the ECU so it went into protect mode or some crap like that. I had to haul it all the way to Springfield MO on a trailer and have the dealer recode the key thing. We bought 2 extra keys at that time just in case the thing did it again.
Just something to ponder so you don't loose your mind!
 
Paul, this may have absolutely nothing to do with yours, but our 1999 Infinity Q30 (Nissan product) had a issue with the key not being recognized by the ECU and would not let the car start. It has been a couple years so I can't remember if it rolled over but wouldn't fire up or if it would not roll over. It was the KEY. It didn't match something in the ECU so it went into protect mode or some crap like that. I had to haul it all the way to Springfield MO on a trailer and have the dealer recode the key thing. We bought 2 extra keys at that time just in case the thing did it again.
Just something to ponder so you don't loose your mind!
Good idea. This one happens to be keyless pushbutton so I think I'm good there. Ticks me off the local parts stores are 750$ for a fuel pump. Rockauto is pennies by comparison but i have to wait and its getting cold.
 
While I can't be "sure" on this, I had to put a fuel pump in my grandson's moms car (so he wasn't stranded with mom on the side of the road) and I took the assembly apart because she cheaped out and bought JUST THE PUMP. It looks similar to your assembly and took just what looked like a Wally 255 in the dam thing. It WAS A PITA too get apart without breaking it but I did and got her back on the road only to have her bad mouth me because the fuel gauge still wasn't working........and only charged her $50 to do the whole thing. Left a very bad taste in my mouth and if it weren't for my grandson, I wouldn't have even done it. I bet that Nissan is similar. Here are 2 pictures. One is from the 2004 Chevy Impala and the other is a picture of what yours should look like. They are very similar, but IDK if you can or want to try to take it apart but I have done it.
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I'm not footing the bill so they're getting an assembly. Its a favor kind of thing. I've done just a pump on these assemblies before. Nope. Not again.
 
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