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1G Engine Removal

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its_doriean

Probationary Member
1
0
Oct 21, 2019
Wasilla, Alaska
I am currently in the process of removing the engine and transmission in my 1992 Eagle Talon AWD, I have already removed the air intake, transfer case, cross members, and CV joints. I have also disconnected a few misc electrical wires, and hoses. I am curious as to what the next step would be?
 
Make sure power steering pump is outta way, remove ac compressor lines, Hooking up your engine hoist , and disconnecting motor mounts rip her out.
 
Good step by step guide. Nowadays it’s so easy to get lots of your own photos, though labeling everything is also handy. As with nearly every repair and whatnot, taking stuff apart is easy compared to getting it back together properly. On top of that, with each step you can find additional stuff that needs replaced or repaired. I found my d/s engine mount had nearly sheared its rubber completely after I removed it to do the t-belt. There is always a rabbit hole to burrow into.
 
I label everything, like advised, and don't forget about those pesky grounds behind the intake manifold to the firewall and the knock sensor wire. Some people forget and those get yanked out. Just precautions.
 
Remove everything that’s connected to the transmission. If it’s a manual, remove the reverse switch so it doesn’t break. I haven’t pulled it out with the transmission and engine as one unit but I’d imagine you’d have to remove the transmission mount that’s bolted through the frame. Support the transmission when you do this.

I would remove the turbo & radiator & fans first

Heater core hoses
Throttle cable
Speedo cable (unscrew it from the speedo gear) it’s probably hard to remove the speedo gear with trans in the car and you can easily break the tab that bolts it down
Brake booster hose
Ground & harness on back of intake manifold
Knock sensor
Harness on the oil filter housing
Engine harness from thermostat housing/O2 sensor/starter/cas/tps/injectors/power transistor/coil pack/ac compressor
Fuel lines
Ground on the starter bolt
Battery, tray & bracket

Once you have disconnected everything, triple check it. Hook the hoist up the bracket on throttle body and the stud above the p/s pump. Set the tension on the hoist and then remove the engine mount through bolts

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Yep alex is good with his videos nice in person too, everyone has as a way to pull a engine just get in there and bust some nuckles, a a bit of sweat the more you do it the easier it becomes.
 
I like the video. I can totally relate to how he tries to prep for catching the coolant, only to have it go everywhere when the fill cap is taken off (out of frame).

OK, so once it's out of the bay and just hanging from the picker, how does that heavy SOB get set down? Some kind of strong bench I imagine. Seems like it would be pretty tough to wrestle the trans away from the block with them both loose, and even harder to re-stab it (assuming they needed to be separated for whatever the reason for pulling in the first place). Any tips on holding it down? As some have noted, is it better to remove tranny first, and then pull the motor? Pros, cons?
 
Slowly lower it. If you have a tire laying around, that helps. When you pull it as one unit, it’s nice to have a leveler thingamabober (idk what it’s called). You turn it one way and it shifting the weight left or right.

Once it’s one the ground, it’s not that difficult to separate the two. Trans weights about 100lbs or so. If you can’t lift it, think about working out ROFL

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I pull them at the same time myself. Did it all by myself in one afternoon and a cherrypicker. You have to TILT the motor up and trans down to help it out of the bay but then its not hard.
Yeah, one of those thingy's @TK's9d2TSi :D
I think one of the hardest things for me was the A/C compressor mounting bolts.
 
OK, so once it's out of the bay and just hanging from the picker, how does that heavy SOB get set down?

I prefer to remove the engine and transaxle together. I use moving dollies (Home Depot/Harbor Freight) with some scrap wood to support the engine/transaxle for separation. I feel it's much easier to separate and reconnect engine/transaxle outside of the engine bay. The engine hoist can be used to mount the engine on a stand (if needed) after removing the transaxle. As others have mentioned, the load leveler is necessary to get enough angle on the engine/transaxle to remove them. I highly recommend removing the radiator assembly and harmonic balancer for this method so you have as much room as possible. As for the AC compressor and PS pump, I just zip tie them out of the way.

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Thanks for this thread and the video, it will be helpful when I pull my engine. I already pulled an engine using the Harbor Freight load leveler, and it's cheaper:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html


I also have a chainfall and no engine hoist. So my choices are 1) rent a hoist 2 times for the in and out, 2) buy a used one if I can find one and resell it, or 3) put a big eye into a pair of the garage ceiling joists and attach the chainfall to it. If I go the chainfall route it would be more than a handfull to swing the engine far enough, so I'm wondering why not lift the engine on the chainfall and roll the car backwards 5 feet and set the engine down? Or am I missing something that would complicate that? Like dangling axles or some other issue... It's about an 11 foot ceiling in the garage.

If the chainfall idea works it takes the pressure off the daily rental rate if something comes up and I need to walk away for a day or two.

I'm thinking I might take the axles off anyway to replace the boots and look at the CV joints.
 
I pull them at the same time myself. Did it all by myself in one afternoon and a cherrypicker. You have to TILT the motor up and trans down to help it out of the bay but then its not hard.
Yeah, one of those thingy's @TK's9d2TSi :D
I think one of the hardest things for me was the A/C compressor mounting bolts.
Having done this also I don't remove the ac lines or the compressor. I get the motor out a little bit then unbolt the compressor with lines still attached. That way you keep your refrigerant and the compressor isn't that hard to unbolt. The compressor can stay in the engine bay all still attached.
 
Thanks for this thread and the video, it will be helpful when I pull my engine. I already pulled an engine using the Harbor Freight load leveler, and it's cheaper:

https://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-ton-capacity-heavy-duty-load-leveler-67441.html


I also have a chainfall and no engine hoist. So my choices are 1) rent a hoist 2 times for the in and out, 2) buy a used one if I can find one and resell it, or 3) put a big eye into a pair of the garage ceiling joists and attach the chainfall to it. If I go the chainfall route it would be more than a handfull to swing the engine far enough, so I'm wondering why not lift the engine on the chainfall and roll the car backwards 5 feet and set the engine down? Or am I missing something that would complicate that? Like dangling axles or some other issue... It's about an 11 foot ceiling in the garage.

If the chainfall idea works it takes the pressure off the daily rental rate if something comes up and I need to walk away for a day or two.

I'm thinking I might take the axles off anyway to replace the boots and look at the CV joints.
Cherry picker isn't that expensive. If you don't want to keep it then sell it afterwards. Having owned one now I've found other uses for it. Pulling shrubbery and fence posts. I won't do a trans removal without it.
 
Well an engine/trans combo for a dsm is not quite like a big block, but you might want to be careful relying on a few joists to lift it. Go for the proper tool and use a cherry picker. Think of how badly it could end up if the joists don’t hold! Not just damage, but injuries as well, since you’d be under it.
Pauleyman’s suggestion to keep from having to discharge and then recharge the a/c sounds brilliant! I have to swap my trans soon, and was definitely looking at dropping the trans only because I didn’t want to mess with a/c. Now I’m reconsidering...
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm confident the joists would hold, that's certainly not the issue. And I own a bucket loader, so got all the fence posts covered. No, it's more about storage if I buy one. Trust me, it's not a fear of owning more tools, as long as they fit in drawer or on a shelf. So here's a question - looking at some photos of these things, it looks like you can disassemble them and store it? It also looks like they come in different rise heights? I sure don't want to find out I have 76" of lift and need 78" to clear the engine. I've seen that AC suggestion in one of the Youtube engine videos. I'll try that, but can there really be much of a charge left after all this time? (I'm pretty well set for that, I have R12 gauges and an 18lb can of R12 still) At some point I'll likely rebuild the compressor anyway.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm confident the joists would hold, that's certainly not the issue. And I own a bucket loader, so got all the fence posts covered. No, it's more about storage if I buy one. Trust me, it's not a fear of owning more tools, as long as they fit in drawer or on a shelf. So here's a question - looking at some photos of these things, it looks like you can disassemble them and store it? It also looks like they come in different rise heights? I sure don't want to find out I have 76" of lift and need 78" to clear the engine. I've seen that AC suggestion in one of the Youtube engine videos. I'll try that, but can there really be much of a charge left after all this time? (I'm pretty well set for that, I have R12 gauges and an 18lb can of R12 still) At some point I'll likely rebuild the compressor anyway.
I'm assuming a working system with those statements.
 
Well an engine/trans combo for a dsm is not quite like a big block, but you might want to be careful relying on a few joists to lift it. Go for the proper tool and use a cherry picker. Think of how badly it could end up if the joists don’t hold! Not just damage, but injuries as well, since you’d be under it.
Pauleyman’s suggestion to keep from having to discharge and then recharge the a/c sounds brilliant! I have to swap my trans soon, and was definitely looking at dropping the trans only because I didn’t want to mess with a/c. Now I’m reconsidering...
I still wouldn't remove both if I only needed to drop a trans.
 
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