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6 vs 12 point sockets: when to use either?

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XC92

Proven Member
1,573
359
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
Sorry for the age-old question, and I'm pretty sure I know by now when each is preferable, but I just wanted to do a sanity check and make sure, or at least see what others thought and did.

And I'm not even going to get into impact vs. non-impact or deep vs. shallow as I assume most here already know when to use each.

My understanding is that you should always try to use a 6 point socket unless the access angle requires a 12 point. But what about situations where the angle isn't much of an issue if at all? I suppose that one should still try to use 6 point if possible, but what if all you have is a 12 point?

To what extent does the socket size, required torque setting, and even bolt hardness matter? Is 12 point ok with smaller bolts that require lower torque settings, even if their hardness is lower?

All of my 12 point sockets are 10mm or smaller. Everything 12mm and larger is 6 point, whether 3/8" or 1/2", deep or shallow, impact or non-impact (I have both 6 and 12 point in the 8mm-10mm range). Is this ok, so long as I'm careful?

Btw the 12 points are from an old "Companion" Craftsman set I bought nearly 20 years ago, so they're lower-end, but it's a good set for my needs.
 
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A 6 point will not always get into the tight areas that you need to get into, thats why the 12 point exists, the 6 point is stronger and has less chance of stripping a bolt head when you can use one though.
 
12 point is good when the bolt is rounded off slightly so you take 12 point and hammer it on. Some head bolts are 12 point and some axle nuts are 12 point. If you have them then use them, if you consider buying them then don't, maybe one set just in case but that's about it. Out of all the sockets that I own, I own a lot, I have one or two sets in 12 point. In 14 years of wrenching for a living, mostly on Domestic and Japanese vehicles, I only needed a 12 point handful of times.
 
I've never come across an actual 12 point bolt or nut on the cars I've worked on, so that's not an issue for me at present. It's just that under 10mm I mostly have 12 point, and was wondering if it's ok to use these since the torque required isn't that high.

Of course that's for tightening bolts. For loosening rusty old ones that haven't been taken off in years, I imagine that you really want to use 6 point if at all possible.

10mm and larger I have more sockets than I'll likely ever need, deep and shallow, impact and not, 3/8" & 1/2", all 6 point, so I'm good there.

FWIW I just bought a HF 3/8" 6 point deep socket set that ranges from 10mm-21mm. I recently did some work on the car that required torquing down with my 3/8" torque wrench and all I had was 12 point sockets for it, so I got this set to cover that in the future.

A 6 point will not always get into the tight areas that you need to get into, thats why the 12 point exists, the 6 point is stronger and has less chance of stripping a bolt head when you can use one though.

Yes, I know. I was just wondering if it's ok to use 12 point not because of angle but because it's all you have, for smaller bolts like 8 or 10mm, or if you should always use 6 point even for smaller bolts.
 
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The angular versatility of 12 point is not very relevant with a ratchet, but it is on a breaker bar. And certainly this is why box wrenches are almost always 12-point. Some may not know , though I’m sure many do, that you can rotated the drive (square) end 90 degrees and get in between the positions on a 6-point socket. Helpful when you have limited swing room on the bar (which is frequently on a dsm).
I would agree that the quality and dimensional precision of the tool is more important than 6/12 point factor. I think Snap-on started it (flank drive) but several brands now offer radiused corners, which transfers the contact point away from the corner of the fastener.
Aren’t a lot of the fancy ARP bolts made with 12-point heads? Essentially double the contact points for double the torque.
 
The angular versatility of 12 point is not very relevant with a ratchet, but it is on a breaker bar. And certainly this is why box wrenches are almost always 12-point. Some may not know , though I’m sure many do, that you can rotated the drive (square) end 90 degrees and get in between the positions on a 6-point socket. Helpful when you have limited swing room on the bar (which is frequently on a dsm).
I would agree that the quality and dimensional precision of the tool is more important than 6/12 point factor. I think Snap-on started it (flank drive) but several brands now offer radiused corners, which transfers the contact point away from the corner of the fastener.
Aren’t a lot of the fancy ARP bolts made with 12-point heads? Essentially double the contact points for double the torque.

Exactly. All of my Snap-On sockets/wrenches are flank drive 12 point. I think I might have a few larger (22mm+) 6 point sockets, but for the most part it's 12. Flank drive is a fantastic design and I've never rounded a nut or bolt with one of those sockets. I have rounded plenty of bolts with my harbor freight wrenches though.. tolerances just aren't there..

As for the ARP question.. the turbo to manifold bolt kit I have is 12 point, as were the nuts to my L19 head stud kit.
 
The angular versatility of 12 point is not very relevant with a ratchet, but it is on a breaker bar. And certainly this is why box wrenches are almost always 12-point. Some may not know , though I’m sure many do, that you can rotated the drive (square) end 90 degrees and get in between the positions on a 6-point socket. Helpful when you have limited swing room on the bar (which is frequently on a dsm).
I would agree that the quality and dimensional precision of the tool is more important than 6/12 point factor. I think Snap-on started it (flank drive) but several brands now offer radiused corners, which transfers the contact point away from the corner of the fastener.
Aren’t a lot of the fancy ARP bolts made with 12-point heads? Essentially double the contact points for double the torque.

Good point, I forgot that with ratchet wrenches 12 point isn't needed, because even the cheapest ratchet wrench will at least 12 positions. I do agree though that it's useful with a breaker bar, and discovered the hard way the "trick" of rotating the 6 point socket 90 degrees in tight spaces. But I was more wondering when I shouldn't use a 12 point, especially if I have a matching 6 point socket.

I hope I'm not flooding the site with all these newbie questions! :hmm:
 
One of the interesting few places I've HAD to use a 6pt instead of a 12pt is when removing the tranny filler plug (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/transmission-help.488183/#post-153482868). The stock Mitsu plug for some stupid reason has a very slight taper to the sides. That combined with how soft the metal is, makes my 12pt socket (or even a box wrench) always slide off and/or round the sides where the 6pt works great.
 
When you start using ARP hardware, you will find 12 point bolts/nuts.
 
Something that all of you have to consider. When using a 6 point socket. The quality of the ratchet . A quality fine tooth (Snap On) will get you the movment you need with in the tight areas VS a Course tooth ratchet , especially a Chinese brand.
 
I have many six and 12 pt sockets. I prefer the 12 pt in most situations as they are simply most convenient. All my impact sockets are 6 pt and i will grab a six point if i know the fastener is going to be stubborn. on a dsm specifically there are several. All the drain plugs. Flywheel bolts. Crank bolt.
For me thats about it.
Just so i can gloat this is my socket drawer.
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You only have one ?
I'm still at the "replace with nicer" stage of tool box ownership. I need to get an actual worthwhile one before I can start accumulating multiples. But my current one has already overflowed onto multiple 36" wide wire racks so my tool collection is yearning for more storage. I wish the husband's cars weren't such pieces of shit so we could actually have money for nice things. At least the Fiesta and Fiat are gone.
 
I once had a nice Snappy roll cab full of tools, but sold them all 17 years ago. I’ve actually made do primarily with a simple Chanel Lock suitcase set, almost certainly of moderate Asian import making. They work just fine on the great majority of tasks. Occasionally I find a particular task that demands a better tool, so I get one. Sometimes a creative approach is called for. Sometimes it makes a job much harder, requiring more Whoopass.
 
I went 10 years with very very basic tools and a classic craftsman grey carry box. Now Id say the tools i own are for convenience. Outside of a few specialty item its convenience. Wouldn't have it any other way now. My time is valuable.
 
Oh I’m properly envious of that socket drawer, for sure. I can bet you have similar complement of wrenches, screw drivers, pullers, etc. each in their own drawers. Definitely satisfying using just the proper tool, like for that moment things are right in the universe.
 
I am in the aviation industry working on heavy jets and most of the important engine hardware installed is 12 point. If something is torqued and pretty important (which is most everything on an aircraft LOL) it is 12 point. From the bolts that hold the engine on (there are only four of them!) to a wire clamp, it's 12 point. Just some random insight haha.
 
Oh I’m properly envious of that socket drawer, for sure. I can bet you have similar complement of wrenches, screw drivers, pullers, etc. each in their own drawers. Definitely satisfying using just the proper tool, like for that moment things are right in the universe.

You must not have owned any newer Fords. Haha. It doesn't matter how many good tools you have when all the bolts just want to snap. I had to recently do suspension work on my wife's 06 Mustang and then more suspension work on my 02 Focus thats my winter beater. Every dang bolt that goes thru a bushing eye is rusted solid. I have pulled apart plenty of DSM suspension and it comes apart way easier. (Sorry but I just had to rant).... I'm done now
 
Same thing for exhaust hanger bolts and wheel well-fender cover bolts--and the battery clamp bolt that goes into the strut tower. Those things rust and seize and if you're not careful and use lots of penetrating oil and very gently ease them out, they'll snap.

Ask me how I know.

I have to drill out a bunch of them that snapped off during some recent restoration work, chase the threads, hope it takes, and install fresh new bolts. It took me nearly 2 hours to get the battery clamp bolt out and chased and I had to remove the strut assembly to do it.

But there's this weirdly satisfying feeling when it's done. ;)
 
And every new tool purchase is an opportunity to come up with new projects.
 
Yes, as the corollary to my previous statement, the feeling of a fastener failing, or worse, the receiving threads failing, is pure defeat. My latest was during replacement of exhaust studs. Managed to get them all out, chased the holes, put studs in, gasket, manifold, nuts. Brand new oem parts. Literally on the final torque on the last nut (which was the far left position) got within 5lb and it just kept turning w/o getting tighter. I am pretending it’s fine for now, although all those cool copper nuts turned a silvery color except that last one, which is still copper color. So yes, it’s not just for lack of a better tool that this happened.
 
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