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RTV for 1G DSM oil pan: Ultra or Optimum Black?

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XC92

Proven Member
1,561
356
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I'm soon going to drop the oil pan on my '92 Talon TSi AWD to clean out years if not decades of gunk, as part of an overall restoration project, along with replacing the rear seal and gasket.

I'm guessing that it probably doesn't matter that much and I could even use gray RTV, but if I had a choice, should I use Permatex's Ultra Black or Optimum Black?

The latter's supposed to be more flexible for "newer" cars, but at 28 years mine's not exactly new or even "newer". Should I stick with the tried and true Ultra? I don't have either at present, only Ultra Gray. Could I use that, or is Black better because it supposedly has better (hot) oil resistance?

Btw, there's conflicting info on whether you need to drop the oil pan to replace the rear oil seal on 1G DSMs. Yes, no, or no but it's easier/better if you do?

Oh yeah, after dropping the pan I'm supposed to replace both the return pipe and oil screen gaskets. OEM a must, or is aftermarket OK?
 
I use the permatex no problems here ,on mine and to change the rear main seal you need to remove the 2 bolts that hold the pan to the block. It makes it easier to pull the rear main seal holder, off the block thats what i would do but again lots of people have advice or opionons on what to do with your car best thing i learned is to see what works for you, again its my opinon.
 
Well Permatex, of course, but which one? They have a whole line of them in different colors and types depending on application, how long you can wait to let it seal, vibration, etc.
 
At my old shop, we had a black RTV that we used on leaking oil pans that we basically pulled the pan, cleaned it up, resealed, and filled with oil within 10 minutes of sealing it. No leaks afterward. I got a pic of the rtv brand somewhere and need to find it. Worked really well. We always got it from Advance Auto.
 
Ok but that still doesn't answer my original question.

Black, yes, but Ultra or Optimum or does it not really matter?
 
Shouldn't really matter. I've never been consistent with RTV on my own cars, other than just using mostly the grey one, and I've never had leaks. That may not be the best way to go about it, but I've never had anything that required anything special.
 
I am with Paul on this. I use Permatex Ultra Grey. It has vibration resistant properties and is my "go to" for all of my DSM stuff. I am getting ready to slap the pan back on my Red 90 motor and guess what I have on the bench for it, Ultra Grey!!! :thumb:
 
Looking at my pan the sealant appears to be gray so I assume that's what the last place that dropped it used (assuming it's ever been dropped). And no sign of any leaks. There has been leakage above the pan, but I assume it's something else, like the oil pump, PS pump, improperly fastened filter, spills, etc. I never really did any work on the car till this past summer, so who knows.

Which as an aside makes me feel that for the first time in the 28+ years I've owned and driven it, I'm finally its true owner, on a deeper level.

So basically, aside from certain genuinely appropriate applications, Permatex is basically trying to increase revenue by making people think they have to have a different kind of sealant for every part, when for most, one is good for most?

Also, IIRC, I think the FSM lists 2 options for RTV. Both are MOPAR, but their Permatex equivalents are gray and black, IIRC. Or, it lists one, and it maps to gray.

...Ok I looked it up. It says to use Mitsubishi 997110 Oil Pan Sealer, which I'm pretty sure is basically Ultra Gray...or black...
 
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Maybe I'll mix the two and play it safe? :aha:

I use permatex ultra grey. If I remember correctly the back of the card lists the mitsubishi part numbers it can replace. Oil pan, rear main, valve cover corners, trans case etc. All I've ever purchased is ultra grey for the last 25 years.

Ok, yet more research. From the Permatex TDS for Ultra Grey:

OEM INTERCHANGE
Manufacture OEM Specifications Numbers
Mitsubishi MD997740 MD997110
So it's grey. Out of curiosity I checked their TDS for Ultra Black, but it didn't have a compatibility chart. I imagine that it'll work, but grey appears to be the most suitable OEM replacement.

And yes, I know, I could have answered my own question by doing this research in the first place. But sometimes what's "official" and what real people in the real world use are not the same, and I like knowing what the latter use.

Also, I just saved myself $7!
 
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I'm gradually learning what needs to be OEM and what doesn't.

Btw the OEM slave I got appears to have fixed the clutch issue and the car's good to go. Of course we just got hit with a snow storm so it'll have to wait a few more days. No way am I driving a just-fixed car that hasn't been driven for over 5 years under such conditions.
 
Not sure if Permatex corrected this but I used the cap to puncture seal. A few months later I went to use it again and the cap was broken so the entire tube was useless. Permatex worked fine but I went with Honda bond on my rebuild and I love it. Permatex seems thinner than Honda bond.

I reached out to Permatex and they sent me 2 grey and 2 black which was awesome on their part
 
HONDA WHAT.......ON A DSM........TONY, SAY IT AIN'T SO.............:p
 
I use permatex ultra grey. If I remember correctly the back of the card lists the mitsubishi part numbers it can replace. Oil pan, rear main, valve cover corners, trans case etc. All I've ever purchased is ultra grey for the last 25 years.
I am with Paul too. I use only Ultra Grey for all my builds. Never seen a drop of oil from oil pan/block part. But many RTVs actually work. The point is to keep the surface clean, totally degreased and dry.
You are correct, Paul. I remember that the older package used to have that list on the back side. I think the latest package doesn't have it though. IIRC correctly, it's also compatible with Yamabond (Yamaha).

Not sure if Permatex corrected this but I used the cap to puncture seal. A few months later I went to use it again and the cap was broken so the entire tube was useless.
Tony, That still happens. You can make it happened less by not tightening the cap until end each time. I leave maybe a 1/2 or 1/4 turn.
Edit: I forgot to mention that also just don't put the cap immediately, first release the pressure from the tube and put the cap on.
 
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@DSMPT Hiroshi, the pin in the cap broke so it was open the entire time. Didn’t notice it until I went to use it again. I did cut the corner off so I was able to use some of it.
 
@DSMPT Hiroshi, the pin in the cap broke so it was open the entire time. Didn’t notice it until I went to use it again. I did cut the corner off so I was able to use some of it.
Yeah I know what you mean Tony. That happens because the middle of cap where is between the pin and the thread part is the weak part. The pressure pushes out the pin part and it gets popped out or gets broken by half. That happens very often and that happens some days later since you close the cap. So to avoid this, I do what I mentioned above.
 
Not sure if Permatex corrected this but I used the cap to puncture seal. A few months later I went to use it again and the cap was broken so the entire tube was useless. Permatex worked fine but I went with Honda bond on my rebuild and I love it. Permatex seems thinner than Honda bond.

I reached out to Permatex and they sent me 2 grey and 2 black which was awesome on their part

I use hondabond on everything too, mostly because I have plenty extra from my previous career, but it does do the job well.

sorry @1990TSIAWDTALON
 
I am with Paul too. I use only Ultra Gray for all my builds. Never seen a drop of oil from oil pan/block part. But many RTVs actually work. The point is to keep the surface clean, totally degreased and dry.
You are correct, Paul. I remember that the older package used to have that list on the back side. I think the latest package doesn't have it though. IIRC correctly, it's also compatible with Yamabond (Yamaha).

Yes, as I wrote above, this is from the Permatex Ultra Grey TDS:

OEM INTERCHANGE
Manufacture OEM Specifications Numbers
Mitsubishi MD997740 MD997110
MD997110 is the product code that the FSM recommends.
 
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