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1G Snapped Clutch Pedal Bolt, Need Opinion

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Uncle Jacks Hands

Proven Member
64
7
Sep 10, 2019
Fairfax, Virginia
So my clutch pedal just went straight to the floor the other day, and I just got finished pulling the assembly out. It looks like someone previously welded the assembly, which was my original plan, however the bolt actually snapped which is causing the predicament I am in. Looking at the pictures, should I just purchase a new clutch pedal piece, or do you think it is possible to grind off the welded on bolt and have enough material exposed to be able to just weld it straight to the bracket? I would really like to most solid and durable solution as I would like to avoid taking this assembly out again LOL. Thank you for the input.
 

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I agree that removing that sucker is a bag of curse words. I couldn't do it without also removing my brake booster, in addition
to the steering column, etc. Turned out my brake MC and clutch MC were both leaking, so sort of a mixed blessing.
Are you running a heavier-than-stock clutch? I wonder about the welding job that may have left it weakened. From the look of what is left, I'd think a skilled welder (which I am certainly not) could make that whole again. Those pedals no longer made, so it would be a donor-car proposition. Seems like there should be some floating around peoples garages, especially those who swapped from manual to auto tranny.
I also bought an inexpensive 2G clutch MC and swapped in the longer pushrod to allow better adjustment. The shifting in my car improved dramatically when completed.

BTW, I put in a new arm on mine, so if you want my old one, you can have it if you pay shipping.:thumb:
 
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Mech Addict, that is very considerate of you, I might have to take you up on that offer. I am curious, as I am a very amateur welder, whether it being broken like that presents an opportunity for a stronger weld. Also, I am curious if anyone has done an aftermarket clutch install, if there is anyway to get around the brake master cylinder. Thank you for the response, I am definitely willing to throw some money your way for the pedal so I have options, I appreciate you reaching out.
 
Mech Addict, that is very considerate of you, I might have to take you up on that offer. I am curious, as I am a very amateur welder, whether it being broken like that presents an opportunity for a stronger weld. Also, I am curious if anyone has done an aftermarket clutch install, if there is anyway to get around the brake master cylinder. Thank you for the response, I am definitely willing to throw some money your way for the pedal so I have options, I appreciate you reaching out.
That isn't a bolt. Its the actual end of the assembly itself.
 
I believe that shaft is factory welded but the shape of the shaft is what holds the pressure. The hole has 2 flat sides and the shaft has 2 flat sides. So the weld really just holds the plate from slipping off the shaft. The flat sides are what holds the pressure. If you were to weld the shaft I believe it would just twist off again eventually. There is a lot of pressure there.
 
In response to both, yes I thought the point of welding the end was to prevent rounding out the flat parts causing the shaft to just spin, so I guess the bolt isn't fully needed after the weld? My thoughts was to grind off the current weld/bolt and reweld the end of the assembly itself with it being broken it may be more flush with that end piece potentially making a stronger weld.(?) And yes, 97egl, that is my biggest concern is that even rewelding it would cause it to just break again due to it having so much pressure especially with an aftermarket clutch. What are my options here to make this as strong as possible or a potential route to not have to deal with this again? I appreciate your inputs.
 
You can PM me your address. It shouldn’t cost much to ship. And quite correct that the “bolt” is just the machined/ threaded end of the entire clutch pedal shaft. While you have the pedal assembly out, check for looseness in the brake and clutch shaft bushings. Their easy and rather cheap to replace at that point.
As I see it, you would put the arm over what’s left of the double-flat-sided rod part, and weld from mating surface from the side where the nut used to go. If the weld penetrates well, then you’ll be done. Many who do this order a special bronze shaft bushing for that end of the clutch pedal shaft, as the factory plastic one is likely to melt. The popular vendors on this site sell them (STM, JNZ, can’t recall exactly which, but you can find it). I put new plastic bushings in mine, since I just used the nut. And while the fit between a new arm and my barely worn shaft seemed pretty tight, it was worn just enough to screw up the clutch adjustment rod to where I ran out if threads to get the peal away from the firewall, hence the 2g rod swap. I found all these tips on other posts, so no credit myself.
 
In response to both, yes I thought the point of welding the end was to prevent rounding out the flat parts causing the shaft to just spin, so I guess the bolt isn't fully needed after the weld? My thoughts was to grind off the current weld/bolt and reweld the end of the assembly itself with it being broken it may be more flush with that end piece potentially making a stronger weld.(?) And yes, 97egl, that is my biggest concern is that even rewelding it would cause it to just break again due to it having so much pressure especially with an aftermarket clutch. What are my options here to make this as strong as possible or a potential route to not have to deal with this again? I appreciate your inputs.


I may be misunderstanding you but if you want a welder to weld around the circumference of the shaft to the arm that is going to be hard to do. It's a tight area between the bracket and that arm and I don't think it can be removed an then re-installed after welding but I could be wrong.

I believe from the factory there is a hole in the piece you have in your hand and they slip the shaft thru and then weld from the opposite side you have showing in pic#2. Your best bet in my opinion would be to drill & die grind an oval-ish hole with flat sides thru that piece and slip the shaft thru and have it welded again. This would be the strongest option. However I would talk to your welder first if you really are serous about going the welding route. I myself would go with another used one if money/time permits you to. I would only go the welding route if I didn't have the money to buy one or time was an issue and I couldn't wait for one to ship to me.

If you do have it welded up keep us posted as it would be good for others to know that may run into the same situation. As our cars get rarer more things will have to be repaired vs replaced
 
Thanks for all the info! So, I will grind off the nut/current weld and take a picture of what I am talking about just to confirm we are on the same page, and I will definitely keep everyone posted throughout the process if I go the welding route. My concern is that there is a broken bolt in the clutch shaft and a weld may just make it even weaker at that point, but again I don't know much about welding.
 
Well i just installed my brass bushings, my buddy is welding this thing, previous assembly couldnt be saved.
 
Good deal; Try to send a pick when it’s done. The factor weld on the clutch pedal end of the shaft is really burley, and of corse the torque is the same on both ends. Other than this post, I don’t recall hearing about the weld-fix failing. Welding definitely is a skill (which I lack).
 
Thanks for all the info! So, I will grind off the nut/current weld and take a picture of what I am talking about just to confirm we are on the same page, and I will definitely keep everyone posted throughout the process if I go the welding route. My concern is that there is a broken bolt in the clutch shaft and a weld may just make it even weaker at that point, but again I don't know much about welding.
That is not a bolt. Its one long shaft that was machined on the end. Originally it was threaded and had flats milled on the end. The hole in the lever isn't round. It has two flat spots. Looks like two "D" back to back. They fit together. The reason shafts get welded to the bracket is with a heavy clutch both the hole and the flats on the shaft wear and cause play. Weld them solid and that lever can't rotate relative to the shaft anymore. You broke off the end part of the shaft that was originally threaded with a nut on the end.
 
That is not s bolt. Its one long shaft that was machined on the end. Originally it was threaded and had flats milled on the end. The hole in the lever isn't round. It has to flat spots. Looks like two "D" back to back. They fit together. The reason shafts get welded to the bracket is with a heavy clutch both the hole and the flats on the shaft wear and cause play. Weld them solid and that lever can't rotate relative to the shaft anymore. You broke off the end part of the shaft that was originally threaded with a nut on the end.

My mistake pauleyman, just from looking at the broken end it looks like two different pieces of metal, I quickly assumed it was also threaded into the shaft in between the flat parts.
 
Attached is where I was planning on welding, however my concern is if there needs to be more material exposed or if that would be sufficient. This may be a question for a welder but all input is appreciated.
 

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I got the piece welded in yesterday and spent almost two hours reinstalling the assembly only to test it and have the piece fail. I had to step away from the car so I can only assume the weld failed. Does anyone know of anyone installing aftermarket brake and clutch setup? I see reasonably priced setups from jegs. For how much of a pain this is and such a weak point in the car, I am having issues seeing the logic in purchasing a new assembly only to risk the same failure yet again. Thoughts?
 
I dont believe its a weak point. Check and make sure something isnt bottoming out. Did somebody install an extended master or slave rod? Excessively shim the pivot bolt? Bad flywheel step causing incorrect fork placement? What clutch? Analyze the failure or it will likely happen again. Give us some info.
 
Thanks for the response pauleyman. So maybe I am just looking at it wrong, but it was working fine for months after I installed the new clutch. It felt like it could use a new master cylinder, or bleed, but it shifted fine and smooth, that is until the arm snapped. There does not appear to be an extended rod as I had to adjust it out when I installed the new clutch which is a ACT 2600 6 puck. The pivot ball was not excessively shimmed, the fork appeared to be in a good position, I do not know about the flywheel step. Everything appears to be stock otherwise, lines, slave, etc.. My thought process may just be overwhelmed with frustration right now, but it's hard for me to comprehend something else causing it to fail other than the arm itself when it was driving great. It's just to the point that with the weld breaking, I will most likely need a full clutch arm, or assembly, whichever is available (if at all), and I would like to make this thing as indestructible as possible.
 
I would consider the possibility that it was already broken and previously welded. A new arm would be one solid piece and as this discussion states could be welded. Welding merely prevents the arm from rotating as the D slots are not enough and tend to wear with stronger clutches. My results were fine with lighter clutches but the minute I put in an act 2600 i had problems. I solved mine with a brand new pedal assembly and arm but i doubt even those would last. I hated the clutch and removed it anyway so i never found out. Make sure the master can still self adjust.
 
Thanks again for the response pauleyman. When you say you hated the clutch and removed it anyway, what do you mean, a switch to auto? I got this car to learn so I’ve been considering tackling the project of creating my own assembly of some Wilwood pedals, might get interesting unless I can find an assembly dirt cheap .
 
I switched to a different clutch. The 2600 was too stiff for me, i didn't care for the stress it put on other components.
 
Really bites that all that work was for naught. I’ve been at the “just walk away” stage so many times with my car. Sometimes a week goes by before I am cooled off enough to work on it again.

I’m sure there could be a way to adapt an aftermarket , but it will take some creative problem solving of its own. There’s not much real estate on the firewall to the fender-side of the brake MC, but perhaps if the clutch MC could be located inside the car, not under the hood? I believe the brake pedal bracket and pivot shaft would work fine without the Factory clutch pedal shaft installed. The fact that it hydraulic opens a lot of custom routing options for line to the slave, though the new MC would have to move enough fluid. Far easier to get a new pedal assembly from a donor car.
Performance partout looks out of stock on this. You could call them, and try Rix as well. There are 1g partouts all the time in the classifieds. I think it would need to be from a turbo, but perhaps any 2.0L works. Who did the weld? Was any beveling done on the arm opening for deeper penetration? Did the new weld fail, or did the shaft end shear off?
 
Update:

Mech Addict, The weld failed and took some of the arm with it. I think due to the problem I am listing below.

I purchased a new used assembly, welded it up, and installed it. I noticed that when I went to test the clutch, it felt like I was hitting a wall. I noticed the fork was stuck to the left, so I lightly tapped it with a hammer and it released causing the clutch pedal to feel like it was working as usual again. However, when I press the clutch pedal to the floor, the pedal gets stuck to the floor as does the clutch fork gets stuck to the left (passenger) side of the bell housing, causing the clutch to feel like it is hitting a wall again when I pick it up off the floor. If I tap the clutch fork back into position, everything moves fine until it is pressed into the floor again the same situation happens. The Clutch fork (upgraded), pivot ball, and throw-out bearing have all been replaced and only have a few hundred miles on it. Could this be a leaky MC, or SC? I do not see any fluid anywhere, but I am unsure why the fork wouldn't go back to its original position. Any ideas on this one?
 
I’ve not had my actual clutch apart (yet...), only the linkage and hydraulics. I believe it is mostly the clutch diaphragm spring that makes everything else want to return, and obviously clamp the disc to the flywheel (the whole point). Something sounds amiss within the bellhousing. Fork not seated/held to the throwout bearing?? I’m basically just guessing and naming clutch parts. I’m sure others will have more informed advice.
But you’ve definitely advanced your troubleshooting on from a pedal problem to something else. I think you would see fluid somewhere if the MC or SC were leaking. My MC gave out while driving; pedal stayed down. It didn’t lose much fluid (but there was some seeping down the rubber boot) and after I pulled the pedal back up by hand, I limped the car home and it worked for at least a few more shifts (1.5 miles). I replaced the slave as precaution after I saw the condition of the fluid and MC internals.
Is the slave cylinder properly seated on the bell housing? Perhaps take the clutch fork boot off and look with a flashlight while someone presses the pedal.
 
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